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To kick things off in "Brakes" I was getting shudder in the brake pedal. Rotors worn at about 130 thousand ks. I decided to put slotted rotors in as I tow a van. Reason to help keep disc's a bit cooler. My mechanic says they are made for performance cars, a 120 diesel not really performance. But I have found they do stop the car better, less pedal pressure. Will do same to rear if they ever get low.
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If anyone wants the best go Brembo, the rest are average at best IMHO. DBA, RDA etc seem to be very soft, pads chew them and there is not much there to machine. Would rather change pads than rotors. -
Run many many forms of Brakes and rotors, Stop tech, Wilwood, KSport, AP Racing, Brembo, Carbons, DBA, RDA, Fusions etc never really seen an issue where the pads chew them out, the pads are the more sacrificial part.
I find DBA T3 are fine on Prado's, just going onto my 4th set of Bendix 4x4 pads and Brake rotor is still good, doesn't need machining or even a skim. Rotors now done over 150,000kms.Comment
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DBA T2 or T3 are fine. Some have had issues with Bendix pads taking too long to warm up but my experience has been good.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automaticComment
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When replacing the Rotors make sure you put new pads in as well.If the old pads are glazed they will overheat the rotors and warp them eventually.PradoPoint GTG 2014 - Iconic High Country - Victoria
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ARB 4x4 Accessories, Dobinsons Spring & Suspension, BCF, Terrain Tamer , ORU , MAXTRAX, REDARC , Kaymar & Opposite LockComment
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Yes DBA Kanaroo Paw T2 T3 are the Ducks. Long life very little heat issues. I wear Bendix pads comments agree with prev. Only caution is be careful after washing your P&J. Wet pads take a while to shed wetness & get back to doing their job - some firm prodding required! The noise if not the lack of deceleration will get your attention.Comment
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