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  • Ctek D250S Dual Charger on 120 Series

    Hi folks,

    I bought a Ctek D250S charger with every intention of installing it under the bonnet. I've seen a heap of people with them installed under the bonnet without issue. However, today I decided to do a bit more research before diving in to do the job, and found a lot of people recommending not fitting it under the bonnet.

    The reason I decided to look was when I unpacked it, I was a little surprised with how "un-water and dust proof" it looked. Considering we do a lot of beach, dirt and dust driving, and are about to head off on a big trip next year, I though I better make sure it WAS OK to be installed under the bonnet.

    So I have my second battery under the bonnet as well. It's managed by a Projecta system. We have cables which run down to a small 37L Waeco fridge in the back, and a second set of cables which run down to an Anderson plug that connects to our camper trailer to charge those batteries while we're driving (solar takes over when we arrive).

    Clearly I need to keep the charger as close as possible to both batteries. But where can it go? I have bugger all room under the dash to mount. It seems like too much of a run to go in the back. I can't put it under the front seats because we have kids who'll just kick it.

    Is there an issue with it being under the bonnet? Does anyone own one who's done a lot of outback touring (IE, Tanami, Oodnadatta, Gibb etc) and have it mounted under the bonnet? And if so, how does it fair? What happens going through a river crossing that's over the bonnet?

    Clearly I'm holding off now putting it in. So any advice would be welcome.

    Cheers,

    Stuart.
    '09 GXL D4D • ARB Deluxe Winch Bar • Magnum 9000lb winch • ARB Rear Locker • 2" Tough Dog Lift • ARB CKSA12 Compressor • ERPS 6 point rust proofing • Projecta DBS085K Dual Battery • XXX 170 HIDs • Mickey T 4 Rib ATZ • Safari Snorkel • GME TX3400 • Codan NGT HF Radio/GPS • Outback Roof Console • Dual DVD Headsets • RedArc Brake Controller • C-Tek D250S Charger • Towing 2013 Complete Campsite Uluru Camper • Side and Rear Featherlite Awnings

  • #2
    As long as you have appropriate cables / wiring you should be able to mount it anywhere.

    You were happy to mount under the bonnet and still charge the batteries in the camper, so wiring should not be a problem where ever you mount the charger.

    Inside out of dust and moisture would have to be better.

    Comment


    • #3
      As you are asking for opinions may I suggest retrofitting it to a pelican case with appropiate one way vents?
      Just a thought it may not be practical etc

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by baggs71 View Post
        As you are asking for opinions may I suggest retrofitting it to a pelican case with appropiate one way vents?
        Just a thought it may not be practical etc
        These things generate a lot of heat, might not be a good move?
        2[FONT=Arial Narrow]008 Prado GXL D4D Auto with Prado Pack

        4x4 History: 2000 Prado GXL 90 Series 1KZ-TE, 1992 4runner 2.8 Motson turbo, 1985 Landcruiser 60 Series 3.9L Diesel, 1985 4Runner 2L 2.4 Diesel later mod. + 2.4T (Factory Turbo), 1982 Hilux 2.2L Diesel in Yellow (callsign 'Yellow Peril') later mod. + 2.4L engine[/FONT]

        Comment


        • #5
          mine fits nicely in the rear pocket on the left hand side. It's only 20A so 4.5mm cable has been plenty for my needs.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Burrows75 View Post
            As long as you have appropriate cables / wiring you should be able to mount it anywhere.

            You were happy to mount under the bonnet and still charge the batteries in the camper, so wiring should not be a problem where ever you mount the charger.

            Inside out of dust and moisture would have to be better.
            Cabling is not a problem. But I don't really have much room to mount it anywhere else. I do agree with your statement - mounting it inside will be better. I just don't know where to put it at this stage.

            Thanks for the reply.
            '09 GXL D4D • ARB Deluxe Winch Bar • Magnum 9000lb winch • ARB Rear Locker • 2" Tough Dog Lift • ARB CKSA12 Compressor • ERPS 6 point rust proofing • Projecta DBS085K Dual Battery • XXX 170 HIDs • Mickey T 4 Rib ATZ • Safari Snorkel • GME TX3400 • Codan NGT HF Radio/GPS • Outback Roof Console • Dual DVD Headsets • RedArc Brake Controller • C-Tek D250S Charger • Towing 2013 Complete Campsite Uluru Camper • Side and Rear Featherlite Awnings

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by baggs71 View Post
              As you are asking for opinions may I suggest retrofitting it to a pelican case with appropiate one way vents?
              Just a thought it may not be practical etc
              What is a pelican case? As I've not fitted it yet, it won't be a retro fit, but it needs to be suitable and not bigger than the charger is already.
              '09 GXL D4D • ARB Deluxe Winch Bar • Magnum 9000lb winch • ARB Rear Locker • 2" Tough Dog Lift • ARB CKSA12 Compressor • ERPS 6 point rust proofing • Projecta DBS085K Dual Battery • XXX 170 HIDs • Mickey T 4 Rib ATZ • Safari Snorkel • GME TX3400 • Codan NGT HF Radio/GPS • Outback Roof Console • Dual DVD Headsets • RedArc Brake Controller • C-Tek D250S Charger • Towing 2013 Complete Campsite Uluru Camper • Side and Rear Featherlite Awnings

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Talktheroo View Post
                I have been fitting these units for years now, under bonnet application.



                I have never had a problem, is the point I am making. This image is actually my set up on my 95. It's done desert crossings in 50 degree heat and no problems. They actually will cut out if things get to hot anyway.
                On the 120 models I fit a plate to the side of the second battery tray and that's where the unit gets bolted to, on the short side. I still use 6 to 8mm cable,
                though.
                The Roo.
                Hi Roo,

                Do you have any photos at all of this? I had a look just before and I can't see what you're meaning. There's not much room at all there. It does give me a bit more confidence to know you've done this before and had no problems. Have you been through deep water crossings at all?

                Thanks for the reply and any follow up info you might be able to provide.

                Stuart.
                '09 GXL D4D • ARB Deluxe Winch Bar • Magnum 9000lb winch • ARB Rear Locker • 2" Tough Dog Lift • ARB CKSA12 Compressor • ERPS 6 point rust proofing • Projecta DBS085K Dual Battery • XXX 170 HIDs • Mickey T 4 Rib ATZ • Safari Snorkel • GME TX3400 • Codan NGT HF Radio/GPS • Outback Roof Console • Dual DVD Headsets • RedArc Brake Controller • C-Tek D250S Charger • Towing 2013 Complete Campsite Uluru Camper • Side and Rear Featherlite Awnings

                Comment


                • #9
                  I got an email back from the people I bought the C-Tek charger from, and they said under no circumstances should the DC-DC charger be located under a bonnet. Doing so will void its warranty and prevent it from working effectively (the unit turns off when it hits 50°C).

                  Spent the day today locating the charger in the back in the recess above where the rear row of seats connects. I made a wooden plate for it to fit on so I didn't damage the plastic, and fed the cables through that. Fits in there bloody beautifully. Only real issue was running the cables through the firewall. Found these great grommets from Jaycar that are sealed on the outside of the car, and also around the wire. Definitely no leaks or dust will get through them. $3 for a pack of two.

                  I also added an Anderson plug to allow me to charge my batteries with my solar panels on the camper trailer via the D250S instead of through the rear anderson plug which is un-regulated.

                  Got a new dilemma now. Not enough room on the battery terminal. Going to start a new thread on this one though.

                  Thanks to everyone for your comments and suggestions.
                  Stuart
                  Junior Member
                  Last edited by Stuart; 19-08-2013, 09:22 PM.
                  '09 GXL D4D • ARB Deluxe Winch Bar • Magnum 9000lb winch • ARB Rear Locker • 2" Tough Dog Lift • ARB CKSA12 Compressor • ERPS 6 point rust proofing • Projecta DBS085K Dual Battery • XXX 170 HIDs • Mickey T 4 Rib ATZ • Safari Snorkel • GME TX3400 • Codan NGT HF Radio/GPS • Outback Roof Console • Dual DVD Headsets • RedArc Brake Controller • C-Tek D250S Charger • Towing 2013 Complete Campsite Uluru Camper • Side and Rear Featherlite Awnings

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    UPDATE:

                    I emailed C-Tek themselves two weeks ago, and just got a reply from them then (their products maybe top notch, but their support is damn slow!). Anyway, for anyone who's considering installing a C-Tek charger under their bonnet, here's the offical word from C-Tek themselves:


                    Hi Stuart,

                    Sorry for the late reply.

                    Yes, you can mount the D250S DUAL under the bonnet.

                    Try to find the coolest possible area for best charger performance (far from exhaust, turbo etc).

                    Regards,

                    /Pär

                    PÄR ÖSTMAN │ BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
                    CTEK SWEDEN AB │ ROSTUGNSVÄGEN 3, SE-776 70 VIKMANSHYTTAN, SWEDEN
                    PHONE: +46 225 351 80 │ DIRECT: +46 225 351 82
                    FAX: +46 225 351 95 | MOBILE: +46 70 261 84 96
                    WEB: www.ctek.com │ EMAIL: [email protected]
                    http://www.ctek.com/CTEK_mailsignatur_logo_002.gif
                    THE SMARTEST BATTERY CHARGERS IN THE WORLD!


                    I wish I had got this email on Friday last week. Would have saved me about 20 hours of stuffing around and about $200 in bits.
                    '09 GXL D4D • ARB Deluxe Winch Bar • Magnum 9000lb winch • ARB Rear Locker • 2" Tough Dog Lift • ARB CKSA12 Compressor • ERPS 6 point rust proofing • Projecta DBS085K Dual Battery • XXX 170 HIDs • Mickey T 4 Rib ATZ • Safari Snorkel • GME TX3400 • Codan NGT HF Radio/GPS • Outback Roof Console • Dual DVD Headsets • RedArc Brake Controller • C-Tek D250S Charger • Towing 2013 Complete Campsite Uluru Camper • Side and Rear Featherlite Awnings

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'm sure i posted in another thread on this, i have ctek charger under the bonnet (had it for 3 years?? now) no worries at all so far...and done some water crossings too

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Now that's a selling point right there, the 'other' popular brand does not advocate under bonnet installs. Likely they may not honour warranty if you do, although that would have to be verified?

                        As Ctek point out, the cooler the unit the more efficient it is, it's a balance between keeping it dry, and keeping it cool. Perhaps the upper left guard where ARB place their duel battery?

                        Thanks for this thread, too late for you but the rest of us will benifit and it helps us choose and mount a unit.
                        2[FONT=Arial Narrow]008 Prado GXL D4D Auto with Prado Pack

                        4x4 History: 2000 Prado GXL 90 Series 1KZ-TE, 1992 4runner 2.8 Motson turbo, 1985 Landcruiser 60 Series 3.9L Diesel, 1985 4Runner 2L 2.4 Diesel later mod. + 2.4T (Factory Turbo), 1982 Hilux 2.2L Diesel in Yellow (callsign 'Yellow Peril') later mod. + 2.4L engine[/FONT]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Talktheroo View Post
                          I do not recommend putting the second battery, especially an N70 size battery, installed in the engine bay anyway, in the 120 and 150 models.
                          The 95 models can handle the extra weight because they have got shorter guards and stronger steel panels.
                          I always purchase one of JTS's battery boxes and install them, with a tray, in the rear of the vehicle.
                          Link : http://www.jtsonline.com.au/12-volt-...tal-meter.html
                          Link, battery tray : http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page158a.html
                          The reason why I do this is that most of my customers are going to do tracks that are corrugated, and this leads to the guard cracking problem.
                          For the members that don't know, there have been some excellent threads in the past on this. With pretty lively discussion on this as well. There are some photos that may shock you so be warned. Especially Gordon's old 120 GX vehicle.
                          The Roo.
                          Did some googling - and found the thread, more so on page 21 found the pictures of cracked guards:

                          http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-guards/page21

                          Something to be aware of for sure - I have N70 size in mine, aux battery located before air box. Any recommended sizes/weights?
                          [FONT=Century Gothic][B][SIZE=4][URL="http://www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?36057-Ryback-s-Flinders-Red-120"][COLOR="#B22222"]'04 120 Petrol Flinders Red GXL[/URL][/COLOR][/B][/FONT][/SIZE]
                          with ARB Catalog, with TJM add ons!

                          [CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by cfryback View Post
                            Did some googling - and found the thread, more so on page 21 found the pictures of cracked guards:

                            http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-guards/page21

                            Something to be aware of for sure - I have N70 size in mine, aux battery located before air box. Any recommended sizes/weights?
                            If you use the ARB battery tray, it fits in a different location than other brands. It is easy to inslal, securely mounted to the firewall and LHS panel, and leaves space on the drivers side front quarter for other items (like a compressor). Tray is smaller than some, but I have found a 100AH battery to suit it. Photos on my rig build.
                            Smithy - 120 D4D
                            Senior Member
                            Last edited by Smithy - 120 D4D; 21-08-2013, 10:20 AM.
                            2009 White KDJ120R Manual fitted out for family camping and touring - See my Rig Build at [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27887-Smithy-s-Rig-Build[/url]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Smithy - 120 D4D View Post
                              If you use the ARB battery tray, it fits in a different location than other brands. It is easy to inslal, securely mounted to the firewall and LHS panel, and leaves space on the drivers side front quarter for other items (like a compressor). Tray is smaller than some, but I have found a 100AH battery to suit it. Photos on my rig build.
                              Yeah, won't work for me - I have a pre-filter and ProVent mounted there!

                              I'll do some checking on weights vs. AH - the 100AH range would be good. But I'll have to trade weight for AH to get the best of both worlds.
                              [FONT=Century Gothic][B][SIZE=4][URL="http://www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?36057-Ryback-s-Flinders-Red-120"][COLOR="#B22222"]'04 120 Petrol Flinders Red GXL[/URL][/COLOR][/B][/FONT][/SIZE]
                              with ARB Catalog, with TJM add ons!

                              [CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]

                              Comment

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