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  • #16
    Clock spring / spiral coil

    Ignore it. Make sure your wheel is dead centre.
    The spring is ready to go in. And is already at right position.
    The 2.5 is incase it doesn't have the lock tab. It should and you remove it before putting wheel back on. But after fitting the new clock spring.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Piggy View Post
      Ignore it. Make sure your wheel is dead centre.
      The spring is ready to go in. And is already at right position.
      The 2.5 is incase it doesn't have the lock tab. It should and you remove it before putting wheel back on. But after fitting the new clock spring.
      awesome. thanks again Piggy. i suspected the lock tab had the clock spring under tension to make up these 2.5 turns.

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      • #18
        Not under tension as such. It's not really a spring. It doesn't move on it's own.

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        • #19
          Job done . I'm now not so scared of airbag wheels!


          thanks for all your help

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          • #20
            An old thread but FYI Toyota charge $524 for the clock spring / spiral coil
            "Sure it’s quiet, for a diesel, but that’s like being well-behaved… for a murderer."- Jeremy Clarkson

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            • #21
              Yep, Buy from partosuq or Amayama. I buy genuine Toyota clock springs thru there for under $150 delivered. Or risk the ebay ones for about $35 that last about a year.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by woodwormm View Post
                Cheers.

                And is this on the money for install ?
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNxnb42WFYI
                Originally posted by Piggy View Post
                Clock spring / spiral coil

                Pretty well right. I'd be removing the battery for 30 mins before disconnecting bag plugs or playing with them.
                Don't turn the wheel once your ready to take it off. Have it at 12 o'clock.
                Make sure it's dead level. I also marked shaft and wheel with a texta to ensure it went on correct as it's a fairly fine spline.
                I did the wheel nut back up before reconnecting the bag. Less fiddly and safer I feel.

                An earlier poster in another thread said he had to reconnect all the steering angle sensor and then clear error codes. I'm not sure why as it doesn't need to be touched. Although it's very easy to bump the sensing disc.
                The airbag plugs have a little lock tab to lift before they come off. Can be fiddly.

                The new clock cable will have a lock tab that once your ready to put wheel on needs to be removed.

                Tools I needed were a 19mm socket. Ratchet. #2 Philips head driver. Small flat blade.

                The panels on side of wheel release from rear to front. Eg. Part closest to air bag comes out first.

                Codes should clear upon reconnection of battery after 30 mins.
                If not a code reader will reset them or try a longer disconnection.

                It's a simple job. Don't over think it. But be safe as usual around airbags.
                After having done this job today, I'll add a few things:

                You'll also need a T30 torx driver.
                Don't forget the 3rd screw under the steering shroud.
                The lock tab on my replacement allowed the steering wheel to be fitted before removal, I removed it before applying any torque to the steering wheel nut.
                "Sure it’s quiet, for a diesel, but that’s like being well-behaved… for a murderer."- Jeremy Clarkson

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