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Does Timing Belt need to come off to replace Water Pump? - 1kzte

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  • #16
    Ok then, the next stage was putting it all back together...

    Clean the face of the engine block which the water pump mounts to, install the gasket and the water pump. Tourqe the water pump retaining bolts to 13Nm.



    Next stage is to install the cam seal retaining plate. Clean/scrape the face of the cylinder head of any old sealant where the cam seal retaining plate is mounted. Remove the old cam seal from the retaining plate and install the new cam seal, I found a 1 1/4 inch socket was a nice size to press the new seal in with. Clean the back face of the cam seal retaining plate of any old sealant also. Smear new sealant on and around the groove on the back of the cam seal retaining plate in preperation for installation. Mount the cam seal plate in position and tourqe the bolts to 10Nm.



    Thats when Ghost dropped by to pester me and watch me work... Nah seriously Dawg - Thanks mate I appreciate your help! We took it easy that arvo and ripped the viscous fan apart in the shed, gave it a clean and repacked it with some new silicone oil... Dont ask me 'How do you know when its full'.... All I know it sucks air thru the radiator like nothing else... but it seems to stay on alot as well - I think i... um... we over filled it!

    Last edited by mackayvx; 20-07-2012, 03:31 PM.
    HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
    MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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    • #17
      With the Cam seal retainer in place, its time to install the Timing Belt

      Insert the key and install the cam pulley onto the cam shaft. I found the best teqhnique with this was to have a piece of 2x4 timber cut at 740mm long wedged between the passenger side inner guard and the large shifter which was on the 'Hex' on the cam shaft. This timber was stopping the shifter from moving whilst tourqing up the bolt for the cam pulley. Tourqe cam pulley to 96Nm

      Your timing marks should not have changed from when the belt was removed but double check all 3 marks are still spot on.
      Install the Timing belt tensioner - tourqe 13Nm. Install the Timing Belt Idler Pulley - Torque 35Nm



      Install your timing belt. The genuine Toyota belt made the job easy with 2 lines marked on the belt which line up with the marks on the Cam pulley and the Drive pulley.




      Ensuring the belt is aligned, remove the pin from the tensioner. Job done. Hand crank the engine over to ensure all is rotating and aligning properly.

      Last edited by mackayvx; 19-07-2012, 11:09 PM.
      HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
      MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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      • #18
        From there your just about done.

        Install the timing belt cover - tourqe 6Nm.
        Install rocker cover and Intercooler.
        Install altinator, viscous fan, fan belts & radiator shroud.



        Install radiator, radiator hoses, radiator fill tank and transmission hoses.

        I was going to install a new 'Aftermarket' radiator by my genuine one was in very good condition. I decided to get it flushed and a new return tank and O ring installed. It was pressure tested to 20 PSI and given the all clear to go back into the car.

        Fill radiator with genuine coolant via the fill tank, I managed to get about 6 liters in the radiator. Not being happy with letting my engine get hot whilst waiting for the thermostat to open, I filled the engine block via the radiator return hose - I managed to get another 5 liters in. Knowing I had 11 liters in the system I was happy to know she wouldn't be cooking before the new thermo decided to open.



        Remove your bleed valve from the fill tank and turn your heater onto hot.

        Start your engine up and let it heat up. Wait for the Thermostat to open and top up the fill tank to the 'High' mark.

        Thats just about it. Triple check all your fittings and hoses and moniter the fluid level every day for a week - and she will be apples.

        Last thing, stop by a radiator place or mechanic and get them to pressure test your system.

        Heaps of thanks to Ghost for dropping round and keeping an eye on me - cheers mate... What are we working on next for you???
        Last edited by mackayvx; 20-07-2012, 03:24 PM.
        HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
        MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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        • #19
          That write up was so well put together it puts any manual to shame. Ain't PP a great place to be!
          NOW FOR SALE!!! - 2004 Silver GXL 3lt 4spd Auto - ARB Bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Redarc Dual Battery System, Cooper ST MAXX, Dark Tint, IPF900XS spots, Raised Bilstein/Kings Suspension/Firestone Airbags, Autosafe Cargo Barrier, Sandgrabbers, Rola Roof Rack Stuff, Insect Screen, Dust/Wind Deflectors, Sheepskin/Black Duck Seatcovers, GME TX3510, ARB underbonnet compressor, Allied Hammer Rims, ARB UVP, [url="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?18043-Rock-sliders-steel-side-steps"]AJ Sliders[/url]

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Madkore View Post
            That write up was so well put together it puts any manual to shame. Ain't PP a great place to be!
            Cheers madcore... i just wanted to put something back into PP seeings how I have taken so much! Plus I couldnt find the answers i needed to do the job... so im hoping it may help someone... cheers.
            HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
            MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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            • #21
              sorry to revive an old thread, im about to change out my water pump as a preventative maintence item - it doesnt leak, just want to change it before some big trips coming up.
              question is; what benefit is gained from changing the rear part of the water pump assembly (water pump cover)? Can i get away with just swapping the front pump part out, and in doing so, not requiring me to remove the timing belt that i changed 15,000k's ago?

              pic for reference:
              http://s250.photobucket.com/user/Ste...rPump.jpg.html

              thanks in advance,
              Scott.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by ScoticusMaximus View Post
                sorry to revive an old thread, im about to change out my water pump as a preventative maintence item - it doesnt leak, just want to change it before some big trips coming up.
                question is; what benefit is gained from changing the rear part of the water pump assembly (water pump cover)? Can i get away with just swapping the front pump part out, and in doing so, not requiring me to remove the timing belt that i changed 15,000k's ago?

                pic for reference:
                http://s250.photobucket.com/user/Ste...rPump.jpg.html

                thanks in advance,
                Scott.
                Scott I replaced my water pump yesterday changing the rear housing also. I would say there is potential for a leak as the bolts go through to hold both housings tight and when you loosen the bolts to remove water pump the rear housing becomes loose so the gasket and any sealant on there may damage causing a leak if not straight away but may happen later on.
                2008 Prado VX 3Ltr D4D Auto Dual Batteries , Soverign Bullbar with Avenger Mako TDS9500lbs Winch, Ironman Snorkel, Hayman Reese heavy duty Tow Bar Gme uhf Tx3100, Double din Radio, Gps DVD, Bluetooth , Narva HID Driving Lights , Pedders Trakryder Suspension, BFG A/T, Foxwing, Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller, Alternator Voltage Booster

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                • #23
                  I don't understand your thinking here Scott.
                  You want to replace the pump as preventative maintenance (good idea and thats why I did mine) but want to take short cuts and only replace half of it. Why bother replacing it at all then?
                  You have paid for the parts so install them. All of them.
                  Its not that much more of a job considering what you have done just to get to the point or replacing the impeller section. The belt is easy from that point and gives you the chance to see what's actually going on behind that cover. Did you change the belt yourself, was the tensioner replaced etc. Whats really going on behind the cover.

                  You're going to kick yourself in the desert if it fails and you are thinking 'why didn't I...'
                  Malcom
                  Prado 95 TX turbo diesel
                  LC100 GXL turbo diesel

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by ScoticusMaximus View Post
                    sorry to revive an old thread, im about to change out my water pump as a preventative maintence item - it doesnt leak, just want to change it before some big trips coming up.
                    question is; what benefit is gained from changing the rear part of the water pump assembly (water pump cover)? Can i get away with just swapping the front pump part out, and in doing so, not requiring me to remove the timing belt that i changed 15,000k's ago?

                    pic for reference:
                    http://s250.photobucket.com/user/Ste...rPump.jpg.html

                    thanks in advance,
                    Scott.
                    That's right, NO you dont have to remove the timing belt to do a water pump on a 1kzte.

                    Originally posted by MalcomM View Post
                    I don't understand your thinking here Scott.
                    You want to replace the pump as preventative maintenance (good idea and thats why I did mine) but want to take short cuts and only replace half of it. Why bother replacing it at all then?
                    You have paid for the parts so install them. All of them.
                    Its not that much more of a job considering what you have done just to get to the point or replacing the impeller section. The belt is easy from that point and gives you the chance to see what's actually going on behind that cover. Did you change the belt yourself, was the tensioner replaced etc. Whats really going on behind the cover.

                    You're going to kick yourself in the desert if it fails and you are thinking 'why didn't I...'
                    Toyota supply the rear housing incase it s required, they don't really sell too many thing like that separetly.
                    The bearing & seal is what wears & that is all that needs to be replaced. The rear housing is simply that, it can't wear out.
                    If you were to not look after it & have no coolant & a bad rust & corrosion, then that's he vehicles that will need the housing replaced as well.
                    It s a lot more work to replace the rear part of the housing, as you know then you need to follow Drews procedure written here, which he has done a great job.

                    No you don't have to, unless its a badly corroded system, use genuine Toyota coolants. Don't mix coolants.
                    If you really want to look after it, drop it & refill every 12 months. A small price to pay.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
                      That's right, NO you dont have to remove the timing belt to do a water pump on a 1kzte.



                      Toyota supply the rear housing incase it s required, they don't really sell too many thing like that separetly.
                      The bearing & seal is what wears & that is all that needs to be replaced. The rear housing is simply that, it can't wear out.
                      If you were to not look after it & have no coolant & a bad rust & corrosion, then that's he vehicles that will need the housing replaced as well.
                      It s a lot more work to replace the rear part of the housing, as you know then you need to follow Drews procedure written here, which he has done a great job.

                      No you don't have to, unless its a badly corroded system, use genuine Toyota coolants. Don't mix coolants.
                      If you really want to look after it, drop it & refill every 12 months. A small price to pay.
                      Geez Anth I wouldn't want you doing my water pump.
                      The bolts that fix the pump on go thru that housing and into the block.
                      2 of the bolts are shorter yes and fix to the housing itself.
                      Once you remove the pump - leaving the housing in place - it is only going to stay there due to the gasket sticking it to the block.
                      So as you release the tourque off that gasket it will be compromised...
                      Im thinking that's why those gaskets leak at the back of the housing, mechanics taking shortcuts.

                      I agree there would hardly be a need to replace that housing, but to not replace that gasket between the housing and the block is trouble waiting to happen... half way across the desert.
                      HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
                      MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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                      • #26
                        Put a 1KD water pump on ... There a one piece type and yes they do fit Iv had one on a old 1KZ surf

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by mackayvx View Post
                          Geez Anth I wouldn't want you doing my water pump.
                          The bolts that fix the pump on go thru that housing and into the block.
                          2 of the bolts are shorter yes and fix to the housing itself.
                          Once you remove the pump - leaving the housing in place - it is only going to stay there due to the gasket sticking it to the block.
                          So as you release the tourque off that gasket it will be compromised...
                          Im thinking that's why those gaskets leak at the back of the housing, mechanics taking shortcuts.

                          I agree there would hardly be a need to replace that housing, but to not replace that gasket between the housing and the block is trouble waiting to happen... half way across the desert.
                          Drew, lucky your a d.i.y
                          Trust me, I've been in this game for long enough to know, it's not a problem not or me or any other techs I talk to anyway.
                          I understand exactly how it works & the rear gasket is fine. But it's ok to o the extra work if you believe it's necessary.

                          Aftermarket suppliers like Repco & bursons sell only the pump all day & no problems.
                          There's a reason the pump is like that so you can change it without removing the back.
                          Great if it fails in the outback, much less work to do.

                          The reason they leak. Stated by TOYOTA, from corrosion, obviously due to some very poor water quality and or coolant, mixes not changes etc etc. it takes a lot to corrode a Toyota system, the only thing I see regularly fail prematurely is radiators & usually a very very slow leak.

                          P.s you would be surprised what some butchers can do to water pumps & gaskets & they never seem to leak there, it's always the internal seal & bearing issue.

                          Carry on!

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
                            Trust me, I've been in this game for long enough to know, it's not a problem not or me or any other techs I talk to anyway.
                            +1 i also agree!

                            In saying that i would like to hear the customer insist that i change the whole pump if i was running a garage as it means i can charge that much more in time & labour!! ... Awesome!

                            Now if you are someone that is genuinely stuck for cash you tend to appreciate a mechanic (Qualified with experience of course!) who can save you money and only change and do what only needs to be done!.... Sadly in today's economic environment there is allot of enforces in generating extra work so that extra money can be made out of the customer!.... Not forgetting to ramp-up the price of parts to make labour look cheaper!

                            I myself just like "#############" have been in the game more than long enough to know this and the games that are played on the un-witting customer!

                            Obviously if you are a DIY then go all ball's out (Piece of mined Vs experience and knowledge!) and always do as the customer requests!! ... especially if they are prepared to pay top dollar!

                            Cheers

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                            • #29
                              just back on this again, at what interval does toyota recommend the pump is changed, if at all?

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                              • #30
                                It's a repair, not a preventative maintenance item.
                                When u have a leak you have it attended to.
                                If you have $$$ to spend you can change it at every 150k at the same time as the timing belt.

                                We have a Camry & it didn't even make 90,000klms, I just changed it.
                                On the other hand my 1kz lasted 280k on the original & both vehicles were very minor leaks, just like on my customers toyotas, many with minor leaks.
                                nothing that will stop you.

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