Fuel Tank removal to clean out

[Whitey1 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Whitey1]

As we have to replace our injectors again, this time at only 60000 km, I thought I'd better pull the fuel tank out to make sure there wasn't any crap in there causing the injector failure.
So here are a few photos of the process that might help others do the same.

Firstly, get a hoist, it makes it so much easier!
And try to do this with as little fuel in the tank as possible.
Take the bashplate off and put a jack under the tank. Here I've got 2, one at each end(just makes balancing it easier).


Under the LH rear seat and under the carpet is an access plate that allows you easy access to the fuel gauge sender connection. Unplug that.


Undo the 2 bolts that hold the tank straps up and remove the 2 pins on the other end of the straps to remove them completely.
Sorry, no pics of that step.
Disconnect the filler pipe on the back of the tank.
Now the tank can be lowered enough to disconnect the fuel lines,
1 at the front of the tank, 2 at the filter, 2 just behind the filter and also the breather pipe.
Then its just a matter of lowering the tank to the floor.

[Whitey1 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Whitey1]

Now you need to remove the little plastic clips that retain the fuel lines to the top of the sender unit.


And then they'll just pull off.


To remove the sender unit/pump, first you need to undo the locking ring. I did this by gently tapping it around with a screwdriver and hammer.
It is plastic so be gentle.


As you go you'll need to push these tabs to allow it to turn.

[Whitey1 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Whitey1]

Once the locking ring has been removed, you can pull out the unit. This contains the fuel gauge sender and pump. Be careful as you pull it out as the float sticks out and you need to tilt it for it to get through the hole.


That's about it. I'm afraid I didn't get any more pics as my hands were covered in diesel.
When reinstalling the sender/pump unit, make sure to line up the little tab with the slot in the tank. And because it is spring loaded, you'll need to push down on the unit as you screw the locking ring on a couple of turns. Then tap it around until tight.
Make sure to give each pipe connection a good tug after fitting to make sure you've clipped them on properly, they can be tricky little buggers! Particularly the breather pipe, I had a bit of trouble getting that one to clip back on.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

Good pictorial. But - was there any dirt/contamination? What did you clean the tank out with?

[Whitey1 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Whitey1]

Nope, no dirt, nothing. So ended up being a waste of time really but gave me peace of mind that my tank wasn't contaminated with anything.
Should have the car back tomorrow with new injectors and then a cav filter will be going on as well. As for why the injectors only lasted 60k is anyone's guess.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

That's interesting that your tanks are clean given the amount of time you have spent driving around this big country.

[Whitey1 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Whitey1]

Trap for newbies, make sure to do the locking ring up tight. A bit of lube on it will help to get it locked up good.
I obviously didn't and when my wife filled it right up it started leaking badly. I managed to drop the tank enough to get to the locking ring and tightened it another quarter turn.

[AussieAndy Find all posts View Profile Close AussieAndy]

A good coating of rubber grease, vasalene, etc really helps here. Also helps when doing in tank fuel filters on petrol cars

[Mudduck Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mudduck]

Did you remove the rear tank as well? just wondering

[Whitey1 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Whitey1]

Did you remove the rear tank as well? just wondering

No I didn't. I was going to see what I found in the main tank first, and seeing as it was clean I didn't bother with the rear one.

[AJ120 Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close AJ120]

The rear tank is really easy to remove, been a while since I have done it, but done it a couple of times on both my 120's and it was a piece of cake. Last time was to check for cleanliness and it was spotless inside.

Cheers Andrew

[biloprado Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close biloprado]

at least with the rear tank it has a drain in the bottom of it not like the main tank.
great post by the way

[Mudduck Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mudduck]

Thanks guys, I drained my rear tank today and removed the front (prick of a job) as i also stuffed up and put 114 litres of bio ethanol in so had to do this, fortunately i realised this before it was started so no harm done, just a towing bill and 9 hours of time. This thread helped me with the removal so thanks heaps.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Nope, no dirt, nothing. So ended up being a waste of time really but gave me peace of mind that my tank wasn't contaminated with anything.
Should have the car back tomorrow with new injectors and then a cav filter will be going on as well. As for why the injectors only lasted 60k is anyone's guess.

They can wear out fast. Fuel quality.
Way brands did you use & what areas from?
The important part is you got them changed before it blew up.
Most people don't believe they may only last that long & so they don't check them regularly., till its too late.