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Manual Mapper Project for Toyota Diesel Engines

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  • Originally posted by Atherton View Post

    PM'd you.
    Responded I think

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    • Ok
      so I made a start today, but I couldn’t get the plug off, since reading another article I read that if you unbolt the power steering thingy it makes it a lot easier as they say the hardest thing is getting that plug off.
      so I connected up the manual mapper, it’s really good quality and everything clicks into place. So I took it for a drive and there is certainly something there, it’s more responsive, I actually purchased the upgraded OBM-126 so when you put you foot down it responds instantly.

      I’ll give it another go in 2 weeks as I really want to clean the EGR and then fit the blanking plate.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by GX-D4D View Post

        Thanks mate, I’m going to remove the battery (hope that helps). I’ll be doing the egr clean first so hopefully that will help when everything is out of the way and yep she’ll be cold too.
        Nothing like a dirty weekend.

        When i done mine i replaced the injectors, cleaned the EGR and intake manifold then also done an EGR full block, added the manual mapper and a 3" exhaust. Also pulled the sump and cleaned the oil pickup screen. It was like a brand new vehicle, the engine idles and sounds like a petrol, plus there was an increase in power across the rev range. With the EGR blocked after the second oil change, the oil stays clear for a long time.

        So it's definitely worthwhile doing, and yes unbolting the power steering reservoir and moving it out of the way is the way to do it.

        2007 120 GXL D4D 6sp Man - My Rig https://www.pradopoint.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24945&d=1487341201

        Comment


        • Originally posted by LowRange View Post

          Nothing like a dirty weekend.

          When i done mine i replaced the injectors, cleaned the EGR and intake manifold then also done an EGR full block, added the manual mapper and a 3" exhaust. Also pulled the sump and cleaned the oil pickup screen. It was like a brand new vehicle, the engine idles and sounds like a petrol, plus there was an increase in power across the rev range. With the EGR blocked after the second oil change, the oil stays clear for a long time.

          So it's definitely worthwhile doing, and yes unbolting the power steering reservoir and moving it out of the way is the way to do it.
          Thanks for the advice mate, I previously owned a 100 with the factory turbo the original owner had blocked off the egr from new and the oil never went black, yep I’ll definitely give it another go.

          Comment


          • I’ve been thinking about this for a couple of days, move the power steering bowl, bend the little lip up and take it slow.

            so today had another go and all went straight forward, took me about an hour and all in place, now I just need to do the EGR clean.

            Comment


            • Took it for a good drive, no codes, all done

              Comment


              • Awesome mate.

                Ive been running earlier model for the last couple weeks. Been good too
                red hilux
                Member
                Last edited by red hilux; 15-07-2018, 10:20 PM.
                11/06 kdj120 gx wide body auto

                Comment


                • Originally posted by GX-D4D View Post
                  Took it for a good drive, no codes, all done
                  Awesome well done, the manual mappers are solid units you should have no problems. The creator Young is a great guy, he's been around home here and we chatted for hours extremely smart man.
                  2007 120 GXL D4D 6sp Man - My Rig https://www.pradopoint.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24945&d=1487341201

                  Comment


                  • Thanks guys, when i received Young's email i was impressed how thorough he is and how it all went together as he said it would.

                    Comment


                    • For those contemplating the manual mapper and fitting of the EGR plate I recommend you do the following to assist in making thinks easier.
                      • Undo the power steering reservoir 3x 12mm bolts and place near the radiator
                      • Be careful when disconnecting plug as you don’t want to break the clip.
                      • Place a couple of rags under the EGR (otherwise you have to remove the bash plate if the blanking plates drops)
                      • Make sure you buy the blanking plate as pictured and bend the tab and use pointy nose pliers to insert the plate.
                      I found by following these extra steps it only took me ½ hour.

                      Comment


                      • Just trying to get my head around this whole thread. My plans were to clean and blank my EGR (bought a blank with 7mm hole) and was planning to get it ECU mapped to get more torque when towing our caravan and improve the fuel economy when towing.

                        Does this module help with that? Will it help improve my towing power, and improve economy? Or if i blank the EGR anyway, is there any noticable improvement obtained?
                        2013 150 Prado Altitude D4D in Graphite - [B][URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?37048-Brougham-s-150-Altitude-build"]My Rig Build thread[/URL][/B]

                        Comment


                        • The manual mapper has a fuel trim adjustment where you can turn it down for economy or up for power. I helps a little but wont give you a huge power increase like remapping will, the attractive thing with the mapper for most people is being able to completely block the EGR without throwing error codes. So the advantages are for an $8 plate and a fifth the cost of a remap you can take care of the EGR and have a small control over the power/economy. Plus it's easily reversible.

                          A remap is a lot more expensive, and harder to reverse or change should you need to or if something goes wrong in the middle of nowhere. However you can make far greater power and torque gains with a remap, though of course the closer you push the engine to it's upper power limit the longevity is likely to suffer. Also you can do a software egr delete with the remap.

                          If you go the way of the mapper, you can install a full blocking plate instead of your 7mm one.

                          2007 120 GXL D4D 6sp Man - My Rig https://www.pradopoint.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24945&d=1487341201

                          Comment


                          • I have had the same issues as a few people on here with the mapper- my engine now surges around the 2300-2400 rpm range when under light loads. I've read numerous posts saying that this was a common fault with pre 2012 150's and that Toyota can easily fix with a software patch, but it seems odd to me that I only started experiencing this problem after fitting the module. Would be interested to hear if anyone has had any success in rectifying this.



                            EDIT: Disconnected the unit and reverted back to factory wiring to test if the unit was at fault. Car is still surging although perhaps not as badly. It's not serious enough to be throwing any codes so I'm not too concerned about it however.

                            Comment


                            • I just installed an Ozbush manual mapper today after removing and cleaning out EGR intake for the 3rd time since I have owned my 120.
                              I bit the bullet this time and removed the intake manifold as well which was filthy and heavily restricted. (pic not attached because I get an upload error on this site). I was chasing a MAF sensor code and having cleaned the MAF sensor, then replacing same without error code success, I decided to attack the intake gunk. I am so glad that I did.
                              There was no way the MAF code would ever clear with all of that crud restricting the intake.
                              I also cleaned out the intake ports on head... do this carefully by vacuuming away crud as you scrape with a small tool so that it doesn't go further down ports potentially lodging under valve seats.
                              I didn't go too hard here, just removed the worst of the crud.
                              After reassembly I installed the Ozbush mapper (forgot to mention I fabricated a full blanking plate which I installed between the block and EGR cooler). I fabricated mine mine because the plate I purchased had not arrived in time to suit my schedule.
                              When it was all up and running, I ran two tins of 3bond diesel intake cleaner through the system. I figured this would attack any gunk that was left down inside intake ports on head.
                              I then assembled remaining items... inter cooler etc, and then did an oil and filter change and then cleared all of the codes.
                              WOW!!! what a difference!
                              I reckon I am seeing about 25-30% increase in power. I have been concerned about the detrimental effects of EGR for some years. I was told recently that there was a chip/module that would allow for effective EGR blocking. Bullshit! was my initial response. It's been tried and failed many times I said.
                              For the record, I was totally wrong. I am very pleased with the Ozbush unit, it has allowed me to block off that dammed EGR (something which I have wanted to do for years), and I now have more confidence in the long term reliability of my vehicle.

                              2008 Diesel Prado with extra stuff added. I drive it on the road and other places too.

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