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  • Fuel Water Separator kit

    OK. prepping the bus up for a trip shortly. (2008 120 d4d)

    Im thinking of installing a Ryco separator, the Z980ua to be more specific http://www.rycofilters.com.au/librar...data_sheet.pdf


    Now it does have a filter rated at 10 microns and must not exceed a fuel pump rated at 120ltrs per hour

    Is this a good choice or is it too fine

    Tia for yr advice

  • #2
    I think that filter should be fine .... You will have more than one issue if your chewing thru 120L/Hr

    I see people run post filters at 2micron fine ..... so 10 micron will be fine.

    I think the OEM filter is around 4-5 micron

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    • #3
      Ok thanks for that, as they are asking nearly $300 on fleabay and i still gota install in which is BS.

      i finished putting in a alu plate for the forthcoming redarc install and a rep from a well know national parts installer walks into the workshop...My mechanic calls me over and said u need one of these, being the Ryco, and i said hell yes, and for the $$$ im paying......me is very happy

      So the Ryco it is then, cheers for the advice

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      • #4
        Try this:
        https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-...gAAOSwa81aMeKT

        Same or similar filter, much cheaper.
        2008 GXL D4D + Option Pack 1, Safari snorkel, factory alloy bar, dual battery system, Lovells TFR-118/TRR119 Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Prodigy P3 brake controller, factory tow bar, Orac coupling.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by gxl_d4d View Post
          Try this:
          https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-...gAAOSwa81aMeKT

          Same or similar filter, much cheaper.
          thanks for that but got a Ryco with 4 micron rating for slightly cheaper $$ but thanks for the heads up

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          • #6
            Iíve been looking at putting a second filter on and just wondering which is the better way to go, pre filter or secondary filter, I read a couple of interesting articles whilst traveling to Bali today by Diesel care who sell pre and secondary kits and they recommend the secondary kits.
            2007 D4D GX 120 Alloy bar, Cruise control

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            • #7
              So guys which do you recommend pre or secondary filter
              2007 D4D GX 120 Alloy bar, Cruise control

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              • #8
                This is from the berima diesel face book post,

                Our View - Pre Vs Post Fuel Filters and Water Contamination.

                Disclaimer - Firstly... if in doubt or confused due to all the wrong misinformation out there being promoted by Diesel industry shops that should know better..... we recommend "stick to your one main fuel filter, use Genuine filters, change every 10,000km".

                If you are thinking of adding an additional fuel filter then read on.

                Some Laws of Averages from all our years seeing AND dealing with Injection systems damage from water contaminated Diesel.

                When Water contamination strikes:-
                -No one stops the engine IMMEDIATELY when a warning light or buzzer comes on. Seriously 99% won't turn the key off and roll to a stop. If you dont....no additional filter is "guaranteed" to catch the exact amount of water required not to "also" overfill it and them damage your injection system.

                Hypothetically :-
                -The chances of filling up with exactly enough water to fill the main filter but then exactly not overflow the 2nd filter is 0 to none.

                In Reality:-
                -Water contamination is usually a slow particle build up.
                -Most customers have told us of stories where the light came on... They pulled over, read the owners manual, drained some fuel from the filter and drove on. If that had been gallons of water the injection system would have been damaged and the engine stopped.
                -The chance of filling up at the bowser with enough water in the fuel to damage your injection system if extremely low. Actually in 40 years we have seen only 2 cases directly through our shop.
                -High probability you will see a small build up in a glass bowl if you look under the bonnet 45-60 seconds after engine start up from a Diesel fill up. The fuel flow return rate is so high in a Diesel that after about 45 seconds or so of engine running you would see what you just purchased coming into the Pre Filter glass bowl. Remembering the fuel pickup is at the bottom of the tank.
                -A case of filling up with water "at the bowser"; saw one customer we had towed in get 40 meters up the road with all buzzers on and 37 litres of water and muck couldnt be stopped. He lifted the bonnet looking at what was happening and the engine stopped...snapped pump shaft. By the way obviously the Fuel garage paid for the repair.
                - Water is never by itself, never clear or clean as its usually carrying algae and other goo.
                -High chance of the water sensor getting covered with muck and NOT coming...... hence Pre-Filter much better option than Post-filter as the fuel going to your main filter, once passing a pre filter, is "pre cleaned" and so ALL sensors are ready for action.
                -Most new Diesels now have fuel flow restriction sensor. If you fit a Post (after) filter this sensor can not pick up flow restrictions after it, so the post filter is "on its own" unchecked.
                -We say that Contaminated Fuel found in filters is most commonly from poor Servicing. IE: High mileage between filter changes. We know this as most manufacturers service books do not recommend changing the fuel filter at all preferring to wait for warning lights.
                -Contaminated Diesel Fuel stories mostly have poor filter change history behind them.
                -Misdiagnosis and haste to do a big repair job clouds "Real" Diesel Fuel contamination Facts.

                How to Prevent Damage from Water in Diesel:-
                -Being highly alert, know what the buzzers and lights mean AND disciplined enough to turn off the key as soon as alerts come on would be the only saviour in ALL the cases we have seen.

                Just remember - Most good insurance companies pay "fuel contamination Claims". If you own a Diesel only insure with these insurers.

                We will stick with our recommendation about fuel filtration based on decades of "First Hand" experience. If someone "really" cant help themselves and wants to fit an additional fuel filter, then best practice and most useful one is Pre-Filter.

                http://www.berrimadiesel.com/eshop/pre-filter-system

                P: 02 48771256
                E: info@berrimadiesel.com
                Or PMessage us right here on Facebook

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for that mate.

                  that makes so much sense especially where they talk about sensors etc, so the way to go is pre filters and when the light comes on the dash itís stop immediately and remove and replace.

                  both Berrimar and Diesel Care are reputatable companies and the choice ultimately lies with the user, but Iím glad Iíve been able to read about both choices.

                  my. Choice is now pre filter.
                  2007 D4D GX 120 Alloy bar, Cruise control

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                  • #10
                    Yep happy to help...... pre filter for me as well

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                    • #11
                      I done a bunch of research before installing the fuel manager kit and also opted for a 30 micron as a pre filter, this way it catches the water and sticks and stones so to speak before it gets to the Toyota filter. I added the extra filter when i fitted new injectors, the injector feedback values are still perfect.
                      2007 120 GXL D4D 6sp Man - [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24945&d=1487341201][U][COLOR="#0000CD"]My Rig[/COLOR][/U][/url]

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