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  • #16
    Hi all,

    I just got back from a trip to NT doing 12000km. I wasn't a member but referred to this thread for some info as my 120 series 2008 d4d had this fuel problem. Basically, I first noticed in cobar when trying to fill up, kept gurgling and fuel kept coming up through the breather as if the tanks were full but I knew they weren't. It took me about 45mins to put in 60 litres of fuel, i had to fill up like this all the way to Katherine! The problem is the jet pump (fuel pump) in main tank (front tank) wasn't working. This pump transfers fuel from subtank into main from where the fuel pick up is. The fuel gauge on the dash was still working as usual (the gauge reading is an average between the two tanks and because the main tank is slightly larger than subtank it transfers over to second tank on gauge before the main was empty). After reading this thread, I needed actually see if what I suspected and read was true and sure enough 20k north of mataranka I run out of fuel when the gauge read just above 3/4 with green 90l light on.

    In the meantime on the way up I checked all fuses which were fine, fuel tank breather and changed the filter between the two tanks. All this made no difference. So definitely related to jet pump in main tank.

    I got under the car again...... and found the drain on the sub tank which I could reach with a socket (located on back rhs of tank). Using the mrs wee bucket and a cut off plastic bottle as a funnel, i managed to drain 5 litres at a time from sub tank and poured into main tank. The fuel went into main tank as it fills first and because the level of subtank was going down as I was draining it, the tank breather was clear of fuel therefore didn't gurgle and take forever. I managed to get 30l into main tank, primed the fuel pump (in engine bay on top of fuel filter) until hard and drove onto Katherine. The subtank is supposedly 87 litres so if this happens to you you can get this fuel out if desperate like I was.

    When I got to Katherine I decided to drop the main tank out to try finding the problem. I phoned a few toyota service centres and they had no idea. There is no fuel drain on the main tank so if you have do this, do it when you know tank is nearly empty as it is too heavy to handle and manoeuvre. You need to discount all fuel lines to the main tank, filler pipe, tank bash plate and disconnect an electrical cable on top of the tank that you can only do through the floor of the car by taking out passenger side rear seat, lifting carpet and unscrewing a plastic cover.

    Once this is done you can lower the tank. On top of the tank is a large white round screw on cap with fuel pipes. You need to un clip 1 or 2 of these to unscrew the cap. I had to use a hammer and large screw driver to undo as very tight. Once undone pull out a large white canister looking thing. Be careful removing as float, pick up, sender etc are all part of this. Once out, you need to un clip to access the jet pump. There are a two wires attached to a clip on either end ( one to jet pump itself and other to the cap on canister (I don't know what this canister is actually called- fuel assembly unit??)

    I tested the pump by using a battery and a couple of wires and and was working. I plugged it all back together in the canister and tried to power power it using the battery and nothing. I then discovered that the plug into the cap (top of canister) was all burnt and melted and not connecting with the connection pin on the cap. I phoned Toyota to try purchasing the cable and plugs and they would not sell me it separately, stating I must buy the whole fuel unit at $1300! You pay $65000 for a car with a reputation and that is the service you get! It is literally two pieces of wire 6 inches long that plug into a single plug each end. I tried every car parts shop and auto electrician but could not source one or have one made to suit. Without melting the insulation on the wire I soldered pin into plug and insulated with electrical tape and put it all back together. When you put canister back into tank ensure the cap is in the position it was before removing and as you screw up the large locking screw it will lock into position.

    Once back together I nervously went to the servo and filled up. Fuel went in properly and fast like it should. I filled up to max capacity. When I started it, the 90l light came on and showed empty but after I turned off and on again it reprogrammed as usual. Obviously there is no relay or fuse associated with the jet pump as i would of expected it to blow given the burnt out plug. I did another 8000k including on heavy corrugation and didn't have any further issues with the fuel tanks or transfer of fuel. If you have this problem I hope this information is of help to you. I certainly know how it feels. It seems to becoming an issue with the 120s as they age and I have heard it happening to a couple of 150s. Good luck

    Comment


    • #17
      dont suppose you have any pics of the plug & the top of the tank so we know what where looking for
      2008 Dune D4D manual GXL update - with lots of fruit !! + Roma Razorback Off Road Van

      Comment


      • #18
        Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	97.4 KB
ID:	648496

        I hope the attached photo works

        Steve

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by SteveP View Post
          Hi all,

          I just got back from a trip to NT doing 12000km. I wasn't a member but referred to this thread for some info as my 120 series 2008 d4d had this fuel problem. Basically, I first noticed in cobar when trying to fill up, kept gurgling and fuel kept coming up through the breather as if the tanks were full but I knew they weren't. It took me about 45mins to put in 60 litres of fuel, i had to fill up like this all the way to Katherine! The problem is the jet pump (fuel pump) in main tank (front tank) wasn't working. This pump transfers fuel from subtank into main from where the fuel pick up is. The fuel gauge on the dash was still working as usual (the gauge reading is an average between the two tanks and because the main tank is slightly larger than subtank it transfers over to second tank on gauge before the main was empty). After reading this thread, I needed actually see if what I suspected and read was true and sure enough 20k north of mataranka I run out of fuel when the gauge read just above 3/4 with green 90l light on.

          In the meantime on the way up I checked all fuses which were fine, fuel tank breather and changed the filter between the two tanks. All this made no difference. So definitely related to jet pump in main tank.

          I got under the car again...... and found the drain on the sub tank which I could reach with a socket (located on back rhs of tank). Using the mrs wee bucket and a cut off plastic bottle as a funnel, i managed to drain 5 litres at a time from sub tank and poured into main tank. The fuel went into main tank as it fills first and because the level of subtank was going down as I was draining it, the tank breather was clear of fuel therefore didn't gurgle and take forever. I managed to get 30l into main tank, primed the fuel pump (in engine bay on top of fuel filter) until hard and drove onto Katherine. The subtank is supposedly 87 litres so if this happens to you you can get this fuel out if desperate like I was.

          When I got to Katherine I decided to drop the main tank out to try finding the problem. I phoned a few toyota service centres and they had no idea. There is no fuel drain on the main tank so if you have do this, do it when you know tank is nearly empty as it is too heavy to handle and manoeuvre. You need to discount all fuel lines to the main tank, filler pipe, tank bash plate and disconnect an electrical cable on top of the tank that you can only do through the floor of the car by taking out passenger side rear seat, lifting carpet and unscrewing a plastic cover.

          Once this is done you can lower the tank. On top of the tank is a large white round screw on cap with fuel pipes. You need to un clip 1 or 2 of these to unscrew the cap. I had to use a hammer and large screw driver to undo as very tight. Once undone pull out a large white canister looking thing. Be careful removing as float, pick up, sender etc are all part of this. Once out, you need to un clip to access the jet pump. There are a two wires attached to a clip on either end ( one to jet pump itself and other to the cap on canister (I don't know what this canister is actually called- fuel assembly unit??)

          I tested the pump by using a battery and a couple of wires and and was working. I plugged it all back together in the canister and tried to power power it using the battery and nothing. I then discovered that the plug into the cap (top of canister) was all burnt and melted and not connecting with the connection pin on the cap. I phoned Toyota to try purchasing the cable and plugs and they would not sell me it separately, stating I must buy the whole fuel unit at $1300! You pay $65000 for a car with a reputation and that is the service you get! It is literally two pieces of wire 6 inches long that plug into a single plug each end. I tried every car parts shop and auto electrician but could not source one or have one made to suit. Without melting the insulation on the wire I soldered pin into plug and insulated with electrical tape and put it all back together. When you put canister back into tank ensure the cap is in the position it was before removing and as you screw up the large locking screw it will lock into position.

          Once back together I nervously went to the servo and filled up. Fuel went in properly and fast like it should. I filled up to max capacity. When I started it, the 90l light came on and showed empty but after I turned off and on again it reprogrammed as usual. Obviously there is no relay or fuse associated with the jet pump as i would of expected it to blow given the burnt out plug. I did another 8000k including on heavy corrugation and didn't have any further issues with the fuel tanks or transfer of fuel. If you have this problem I hope this information is of help to you. I certainly know how it feels. It seems to becoming an issue with the 120s as they age and I have heard it happening to a couple of 150s. Good luck
          Very nice share. Good idea with taking fuel from rear to put back in! Thankx!

          Comment


          • #20
            Steve thanks for sharing this information.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

            Comment


            • #21
              That's seriously melted!

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by SteveP View Post
                [ATTACH=CONFIG]16653[/ATTACH]

                I hope the attached photo works

                Steve
                dont suppose you got one of the jet pump it's self ?

                with that pin being from the pump, did you just solder it into the connector pin ?
                2008 Dune D4D manual GXL update - with lots of fruit !! + Roma Razorback Off Road Van

                Comment


                • #23
                  I'm hoping I'm posting in the correct post for the 150. I found reference to my problem in the 120 forum but nothing in the 150 forums.
                  In brief:
                  2011 150 diesel manual with about 75000k.
                  A few days ago, the low fuel light come on when gauge just under half a tank.
                  Driving today and the Fuel Warning light comes on. A few km down the road, engine cuts out. Won't restart.
                  Call RACV. Mechanic comes out, drains fuel filter. Tries to hand prime the filter but only a mix of diesel/air bubbles comes out. He persists for about 90 minutes.
                  During his diagnosis, I tell him the above. I'm now thinking faulty fuel sender given the low fuel light had been on for a few days. He refutes suggestion.
                  I suggest inserting my compressor hose into fuel tank to try and pressurise tank and push fuel thru. He likes that idea but still only diesel/bubbles comes thru.
                  I tap on bottom of tank and it sounds hollow. He says that's not a good indication. [Tried again later when tank full and yes, it is hard to tell.]
                  Get towed to town. Other mechanic looks at it, tells him to put fuel in and it now primes and engine starts.
                  Fill up but can only get about 95 litres in tank.
                  Seems like the sub isn't transferring fuel (i'm guessing here). Most fuel put in tank is 115 litres last year.
                  So it looks as if the low fuel light works but the gauge is still reading fuel (probably sub tank).

                  Any ideas?

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Oddly, I had a similar incident today - went way beyond my comfort limit of nearing "E" on second tank (90 Light on) - put 103.1L in. Guess what? No start! Had to prime the pump!

                    Not a huge issue, but this is the third time this has happened - first was switch between front and rear tank, second was just random...

                    The only thing I can think of is there is random issue with my FleetManager pre-filter, but the incidents are random and year/months apart...
                    [FONT=Century Gothic][B][SIZE=4][URL="http://www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?36057-Ryback-s-Flinders-Red-120"][COLOR="#B22222"]'04 120 Petrol Flinders Red GXL[/URL][/COLOR][/B][/FONT][/SIZE]
                    with ARB Catalog, with TJM add ons!

                    [CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      cfryback, interesting you mentioned the fleet manager pre-filter. As I too am having random, but more frequent than yourself, problems where by i need to prime the filter before being able to start my 120. It started 2 days after replacing injectors, lines and all 3 fuel filters. Was then fine for two weeks then for the last 3 days it wont start without priming, only cold start though, I have been right through all connections, clamps and ensured that the filters are sufficiently tightened and main tank 3/4 full, sub tank full. The car was driven off road on corrugations during the time of running fine. Now starting to really confuse me, does anyone have any other ideas?

                      Cheers Anthony
                      [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?26874-Batto-s-120-Build]2007 D4D GX[/url]
                      [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=25018.msg386484#msg386484]2012 Challenge Outback Deluxe[/url]

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I too have had this issue of needing to manually prime before she will start, seems to be worst when parked nose uphill. I have a fuel manager filter fitted (but set up as a final filter (2micron)). I found the drain tap to be wet with diesel so pulled it to inspect. I noticed the oring to be too small a section, it was snug in its seat of the drain plug but was too big a diameter to seal properly against the housing. It will not seal properly against the filter housing AND the drain plug. Fortunately for me I have an oring kit and found a thicker one that fitted much nicer.

                        It's made a big improvement but still plays up occasionally.
                        I have since found that it's a bit wet below the hose fittings, so one of them is leaking slightly, yet to pull it out and reseal it.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I too have a Fuel Manager pre-filter (30 microns). Recently installed a primer on it and after a while needed to prime to start. Toyota dealer diagnosed air coming in through the pre-filter, maybe because the primer is not fitted properly. They disconnected the pre-filter and all is well. Now have to get it all fixed.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Would it be possible to replace the whole fuel pump ,without taking the tank out. Thanking you John

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Replaced the fuel pump sender unit Venturi, expensive , problem solved.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Fuel Supply Problem -diesel 120 2003 1st month of manufacture I have the same issue but my Prado does not have a pump in the middle tank or a inline filter between tanks it just uses the Venturi to move fuel as the main pump generates flow I also get blow back from the filler I believe the issue could be caused from the fuel cut off valve in the sub tank jamming and not allowing air in to allow fuel flow what do you think

                                Comment

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