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120 - 2007 KD, tips to get running smoothly at 200,000 km

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  • 120 - 2007 KD, tips to get running smoothly at 200,000 km

    Hi All,
    I've got a 2007 GXL Diesel (KD) automatic, and am hoping for some tips on how to get it running its best. It's approaching 200,000 km, I've done 15k of those since buying it earlier this year.

    Vehicle history:
    The last owner told me the injectors had been replaced, but he didn't have receipts.. I rang the mechanic from the last service in the log book and they have shut down, so I can't be 100% injectors were actually replaced. I have replaced the oil/filter when bought then every 5,000 km, also the top fuel filter and air filter.

    The car runs well and is reliable, pulls a caravan and boat nicely, there is a rattle on cold start which lasts for about first 10 minutes of driving, to the point that I'll put the car into neutral at the traffic lights and it sounds/feels better when waiting.. although not bad enough for my wife to notice!

    I've noticed some black smoke when accelerating quickly, quite large puffs, which seems to subside after a few seconds even when continuing to accelerate for 10 seconds or more. I understand diesels will always do this to some degree, but this is worse.

    Questions:
    1. Does the cold rattle sound normal, what to check?
    2. I have a cheap ebay odb reader, can I check if injectors are ok using this?
    3. How much black smoke is normal for a 2007 KD, what to check?
    4. What else would you recommend for the 200km service on top of the log book stuff?

    I know these are subjective questions with each vehicle being different, I'm happy to get my hands dirty, I can swing a spanner just need instructions on where to swing it! Also happy to pay a mechanic for anything complex where there's a fair chance of making things worse.

  • #2
    Think you should investigate the injector story. It's a $2200 investment so worth being 100% sure.
    My 150 and every other that I've heard had a cold start rattle. Sounded really crap, worse than my old KZ in the 90.
    Then she got new squirters and had the ecu reflashed.
    Still had the cold rattle with new squirters but the reflash......that sorted it.
    I think the factory injection is multiple hits of small amounts?? whereas the reflash went to single shots as far as I can determine. All secret squirrel stuff.
    To me the multiple shot idea might give better emissions etc but surely it must promote detonation. You're injecting more fuel into an existing flame front.
    But end result is she makes a heap more power, no cold start knocks, great/better economy.

    Comment


    • #3
      Get a scan tool on and check the values. On the newer ones a injector relearn can sort the cold rattle.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by ejukated View Post
        Get a scan tool on and check the values. On the newer ones a injector relearn can sort the cold rattle.
        Agree, check the values, if in spec then don't worry about the rattle. Mines has always had the rattle from new, 2nd injectors at 180,000k and new ones at 230,000 now at 280,000. Still rattles but have not changed readings from install and goes great.
        Some black smoke is normal with most modern diesels these days (look at the navara's). Try cleaning the MAF , take a look in the intake and see how much gunk there is. May be worth ripping most of the plumbing off and giving it a good clean.
        Make sure they have had the cam belt and tensioners etc done at the 150k service or if in doubt then put some new ones on and maybe a new water pump if your there (mine hasn't leaked yet so still original pump).
        ight be worth doing a coolant change if no history and change the fan belt and tensioner pulley. Just normal preventative stuff.
        Might be worth dumping the auto fluid and new stuff into it, depends what it looks like and if ever been serviced.
        Generally pretty reliable if you just keep an eye on things. Not one problem (touch wood) for me bought new now 280k so don't stress too much.
        Oh and make sure you check your pickup screen in the sump every oil change. Can see it through the drain hole. If nice and clean, then nothing to worry about, if clogged the read up about what you need to do and do it straight away.

        Comment


        • #5
          Some years ago I had a 2007 D4D as well, drove it for some 150000 km including some remote travel incl Madigan line etc.
          For me it was important to increase the reliability of the engine when the issues with the injectors came up in the early days of the life of the D4D.

          What I did:
          Full block of the EGR system
          Remove EGR cooler from cooling system (bypass heating hoses)
          Overcome the the CEL light by using the Fuel mapper from http://ozbushelectronics.com.au/
          Disconnect crankcase from intake and ventilate into atmosphere via a catch can
          Electric fan on top of inter cooler (had it permanently running for many years without a thermoswitch

          Result:
          Engine oil stayed clean for up to 7000 km
          Fuel consumption dropped by around 0.5 liter

          I know from the past that some of the mods were debated religiously from both sides, sometimes just "because" ;-)
          I am not going into any defending them, just stating what worked for me.

          What I would recommend with that mileage (and that is supported by you saying that it blowing some black smoke under acceleration) is to clean the intake manifold.
          I would expect that with EGR and crankcase ventilation connected, that it is probably quite restricted by soot.

          Cheers
          Mike

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by groeschel View Post
            Some years ago I had a 2007 D4D as well, drove it for some 150000 km including some remote travel incl Madigan line etc.
            For me it was important to increase the reliability of the engine when the issues with the injectors came up in the early days of the life of the D4D.

            What I did:
            Full block of the EGR system
            Remove EGR cooler from cooling system (bypass heating hoses)
            Overcome the the CEL light by using the Fuel mapper from http://ozbushelectronics.com.au/
            Disconnect crankcase from intake and ventilate into atmosphere via a catch can
            Electric fan on top of inter cooler (had it permanently running for many years without a thermoswitch

            Result:
            Engine oil stayed clean for up to 7000 km
            Fuel consumption dropped by around 0.5 liter

            I know from the past that some of the mods were debated religiously from both sides, sometimes just "because" ;-)
            I am not going into any defending them, just stating what worked for me.

            What I would recommend with that mileage (and that is supported by you saying that it blowing some black smoke under acceleration) is to clean the intake manifold.
            I would expect that with EGR and crankcase ventilation connected, that it is probably quite restricted by soot.

            Cheers
            Mike
            Good advice. FYI, you dont need to do a fuel mapper to get rid of the codes. I can all be taken care of in a tune.

            Comment


            • #7
              Absolutely correct,
              But when I did it software tunes where unavailable(at least to my knowledge).
              I am not into that anymore but for me the mapper was cheap and easy to add DIY solution.
              Cheers
              Michael

              Comment

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