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Oil leak from timing chain cover plate on 1GR-FE: DIY fix at home

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  • #16
    Originally posted by pilgrim_traveller View Post
    Mark... Only 10k after 20 months?! Do you even drive that thing??
    was gonna ask the same thing :lol:
    [B]CANYONEROOOOO *whipping in the distance*
    [URL="http://youtu.be/7ZeFDe44Ddo"]
    http://youtu.be/7ZeFDe44Ddo[/URL]

    Toyota LandCruiser Prado GXL V6 [COLOR=#800000]Red[/COLOR][/B] (APRIL 2006 BUILD)

    Comment


    • #17
      so since my last post on this thread (1 year 8 months) and 50,000km's the timing cover leak hasn't gotten any worse or better so i'm not going to worry about it. though i just recently done a 190k service and while i was checking it all out, i noticed some oil at the back of the engine coming from the bottom of the bell housing and on the back of the sump. hoping it isn't a rear main seal gone
      [B]CANYONEROOOOO *whipping in the distance*
      [URL="http://youtu.be/7ZeFDe44Ddo"]
      http://youtu.be/7ZeFDe44Ddo[/URL]

      Toyota LandCruiser Prado GXL V6 [COLOR=#800000]Red[/COLOR][/B] (APRIL 2006 BUILD)

      Comment


      • #18
        Hi all, yes that is your main rear crank seal leaking.

        Background: I bought my 2004 prado in December 2016, about 2 months later noticed the spot on the paving, got the car on the ramps, and saw that the base plate was "nicely oiled", saw oil on the plastic cover at the bottom of the bell housing.

        I don not like oil leaks, and yes it was fixed last week, also done the torques converter seal totaled @ $1400, incl service to tranny

        I had a look when the tranny was out, and the seal was nice and black, so that was confirmed.

        Got the car back very exited went and clean everything nicely at the bottom and in the engin bay, to check for job well done.
        Ok after that i had a run of about 10km, got home had a look at the bell housing and it was dry, job well done.

        about 1 hr later decided to check under car and what do i see, another oil spot, whats going on here.

        Removed the base plate and there was still oil on the base plate,
        I did notice that in the front of engine, in the area of the pwr steering pump and below the pulleys old oil build up was present.

        I did clean it off before thinking that it was an old leak.

        But then i saw in about the same area that you're pic is showing above the power steering, there is clean oil in that area,
        I first thought of being the front crank seal, but then how will this clean oil be getting high up there, no oil on serpentine belt.

        I did the oil service before cleaning the vehicle, now i wonder how did the workshop not see that leak...:-x

        But on servicing i noticed that there is white paste in the oil cap, I cleaned it out nicely, dried out, opened it up yesterday and there where some condensate in there,
        the engine did never overheat with me and have no problem with compression or miss firing, I am losing some coolant but I also noticed that on both bottom corners of the radiator I have some buildup of antifreeze
        so I think that is where the losses are.

        So far I only have put on 11000km and mostly drop wife off at cleveland station and back and fetch in afternoon, so that's only short trips a bit more on weekends.

        I saw somewhere on this forum that a quy said its normal, don't know? As far as I know if the cap is white you have coolant passing through to oil side.

        Any advice??
        Last edited by SekelOz; 04-09-2017, 09:44 PM.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by SekelOz View Post
          Hi all, yes that is your main rear crank seal leaking.

          Background: I bought my 2004 prado in December 2016, about 2 months later noticed the spot on the paving, got the car on the ramps, and saw that the base plate was "nicely oiled", saw oil on the plastic cover at the bottom of the bell housing.

          I don not like oil leaks, and yes it was fixed last week, also done the torques converter seal totaled @ $1400, incl service to tranny

          I had a look when the tranny was out, and the seal was nice and black, so that was confirmed.

          Got the car back very exited went and clean everything nicely at the bottom and in the engin bay, to check for job well done.
          Ok after that i had a run of about 10km, got home had a look at the bell housing and it was dry, job well done.

          about 1 hr later decided to check under car and what do i see, another oil spot, whats going on here.

          Removed the base plate and there was still oil on the base plate,
          I did notice that in the front of engine, in the area of the pwr steering pump and below the pulleys old oil build up was present.

          I did clean it off before thinking that it was an old leak.

          But then i saw in about the same area that you're pic is showing above the power steering, there is clean oil in that area,
          I first thought of being the front crank seal, but then how will this clean oil be getting high up there, no oil on serpentine belt.

          I did the oil service before cleaning the vehicle, now i wonder how did the workshop not see that leak...

          But on servicing i noticed that there is white paste in the oil cap, I cleaned it out nicely, dried out, opened it up yesterday and there where some condensate in there,
          the engine did never overheat with me and have no problem with compression or miss firing, I am losing some coolant but I also noticed that on both bottom corners of the radiator I have some buildup of antifreeze
          so I think that is where the losses are.

          So far I only have put on 11000km and mostly drop wife off at cleveland station and back and fetch in afternoon, so that's only short trips a bit more on weekends.

          I saw somewhere on this forum that a quy said its normal, don't know? As far as I know if the cap is white you have coolant passing through to oil side.

          Any advice??
          in regards to the condensation on the cap, what oil are you using? i noticed that for my 180km service i tried out some cheaper oil that we use at my work and found condensation on the cap, something i've never had happen before when using other oils. it's probably what caused my rear main seal leak. point is, choose your oils carefully
          [B]CANYONEROOOOO *whipping in the distance*
          [URL="http://youtu.be/7ZeFDe44Ddo"]
          http://youtu.be/7ZeFDe44Ddo[/URL]

          Toyota LandCruiser Prado GXL V6 [COLOR=#800000]Red[/COLOR][/B] (APRIL 2006 BUILD)

          Comment


          • #20
            Whitey, what did you use to create the new gasket or is it just sillicone gasket no gasket set?

            Comment


            • #21
              When i bought the car the guy said that he will do oil change, dont know what he put in, i did check the cap before taking car and it was clear of white paste, I did put in now shell helix H7 10W40 synthetic

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by SekelOz View Post
                Whitey, what did you use to create the new gasket or is it just sillicone gasket no gasket set?
                Hey,

                It's a silicon job, no gasket on the timing cover. I used the Toyota black silicon.

                Best

                Mark
                2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Do you guys service self? What oil do you guys use?

                  Did you buy just the tappet cover gasket, or is it available only in a set?

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by SekelOz View Post
                    Do you guys service self? What oil do you guys use?

                    Did you buy just the tappet cover gasket, or is it available only in a set?
                    Hey,

                    I normally use Penrite, I do all of the work on my Prado.

                    You can buy all of the individual seals you'll need from Toyota, they're not that expensive, tappet covers, bottom oil pump o-ring, etc.

                    Best thing to do if you're planning on doing it yourself is to get the Toyota workshop CD for the Prado, it has a step by step guide and shows you every component you'll need!

                    Best

                    Mark
                    2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Thanks for the reply, I saw on e-bay that there are a few choices of CD's from different people, which one do you have, or are they all the same?

                      Another short question regarding the spark plug, which do you use I see that one can also use the NGK BKR6E11 which is alot cheaper than the one that is on Supercheap webpage. This sparkie can also be changed after 20-40 000km

                      Thanks

                      Anton
                      Last edited by SekelOz; 05-09-2017, 10:05 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by SekelOz View Post
                        Thanks for the reply where do I order the Toyota workshop CD for the Prado, at Toyota or online, do you have a link if online?
                        Thanks

                        Anton
                        Hey Anton,

                        https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...op+cd&_sacat=0

                        Best

                        Mark
                        2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          This thread is a saviour. Currently pulling the heads off my v6 and really didnt want to have to pull the front diff but everywhere has said i need to get the whole sump off. Thank you so much for saving me all that work!!

                          I do have a question though. Do i need a harmonic balancer remover to take the crank pulley off?

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Thanks for the reminder that I still need to do this. Ha! Donít know the answer to your question sorry. But do have a question for everyone else...

                            I only have a carport to do this work in. 3 exposed sides. Am I suicidal to expose this much of the engine to whatever is blowing around in the air when Iím working on it? Has anyone successfully sealed their carport with tarps etc before to do engine work?

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              FINALLY doing this job. Have removed valve covers and timing chain cover and also checked valve clearances while I'm there. One valve is out of spec (one of the cylinder 3 intake valves is 0.30mm – spec says it should be between 0.15mm and 0.25mm). Looking at going the extra mile and swapping the lifter out but never taken chains off before.

                              Following my Haynes guide which is yet to let me down and have a few questions:
                              1. The cylinder head cast dots don't align perfectly with the camshaft sprocket dots when the crankshaft key is aligned with the timing line, see pictures below. Maybe 5mm off. Does this matter?
                              2. I've seen folks say to get the marks on the chains to align with the dots before removal. Haynes says nothing like that. Those marks are just to aid reinstallation, right? Not important to have them anywhere in particular before removing? Have gone through several rotations and they won't come to alignment easily.
                              3. The Haynes guide is VERY specific about not rotating the crankshaft after the chains are off for obvious reasons. However in the re-installation section, it says to rotate the crankshaft back about 45 degrees whilst reinstalling chains then rotate forward again before finishing the main chain. Is this safe? Any advice here? How precisely does it have to end up back in the same spot to avoid timing/explosion issues?
                              4. Is that valve out of spec enough to warrant the effort of changing the lifter?
                              5. I didn't take the oil pan off, as per earlier advice and the Haynes guide suggesting it can be done without taking it off. Anyone had any issues with the seal at that joint when they put it back together?

                              Thanks!

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