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Hi all, thought I do a write up on my head gasket and timing chains replacement.
Short story, engine overheated resulting in blown head gasket ( bank 2 No.6 ) passenger side. I decided to do job myself due to working/not working Victorian lockdowns.
Not an overly complicated job ( labour intensive )but some very important steps and good mechanical knowledge is needed.
You will need a good set of tools to start with! Including torque wrenches, spline drive sockets, workshop manual, lots of rags. Endeavour tools has after market pulley holding tool.
I'm not going to go through all the steps in removing all the bolt-ons.
Remove batteries, bash plates, engine cover, radiator, rocker covers, upper intake manifold, disconnect A/C compressor, power steering pump ect noting all the bolts and wiring locations. Note! Idler pulley bolt is left had thread.
Note! I kept all my parts and bolts together and laid it in order especially the timing case bolts i put in shape of cover!
Note! Before removing the crankshaft pulley turn the engine to TDC cylinder 1 as per manual.
Once i removed the timing case cover i found bank 2 ( passenger side ) exhaust timing chain had stretched ( very slack ) compared with bank 1
( drivers side ) i decided to replace these whilst I was there.
Before undoing anymore you will notice a coloured link on each of the 3 chains, main chain has 3 orange/red links exhaust chains have a black link.
Before you proceed with removing the timing chains
( no return point ) do this. Put crankshaft pulley bolt back in and turn over till all these timing marks line up.
There is a black dot on crankshaft ( square part with rounded corners, drive for oil pump ) coloured link on crankshaft timing chain will line up in the centre with this mark!
The other 2 coloured links will line up with the intake camshaft sprockets banks 1 & 2. Bank 1 ( drivers side ) link will be in the middle of the single line of the sprocket ( on the sprocket ). There is 1 raised notch 1 notched out on the intake bearing cap No.1 ( front closest to intake camshaft sprocket ). The notched out part & line on camshaft sprocket will be central with the coloured link!.
Bank 2 ( passenger side ) intake camshaft sprocket has 2 lines, the coloured link ( where links join ) will be on each line and the single raised timing mark on the intake bearing cap No 1 ( closest to camshaft sprocket ) will be in the centre of these marks/coloured link.
The exhaust timing chains have 1 black link on each chain and they will line up with an indentation dot
( centre ) of each exhaust sprocket.
You may need to turn the engine over several times but they will all eventually line up!
I did this to ensure that when I put the heads back on and the camshafts back in all the chains and timing marks will all line up! Take photos if need be to ensure its exactly the same as when you pulled it apart!
Its now set at exactly TDC cylinder 1!
Note! When you put chains back together starting with exhaust sprocket and intake sprocket line up exhaust chain link with the indentation mark in the centre ( as previously mentioned ). Hold the 2 sprockets in front of the camshafts to get an idea of where the timing marks are on the intake sprocket in relation to the timing marks on the intake camshaft bearing caps.
You may need to turn the intake sprocket around to line it up. Both sprockets will only go on 1 way as they have alignment studs on the camshafts!
Remember to install the camshaft tensioners first before you put the sprockets on! Ensure that you torque all bolts as specified in the manual.
Note! Most important, when all the chains are back on and lined up turn the engine over by hand. If you have any resistance something is wrong! I turned engine over till all marks and links were aligned again.
Note! When removing cylinder head bolts follow the workshop manual, especially on bank 2 front 2 bolts!
You also need to tighten the crankshaft pulley to 250Nm thats what the pulley holder tool is used for and removel or remove the starter motor and jam with a big screwdriver.
My cylinder head failed between 4 & 6. I had heads crack tested and the surfaces machined. I chose not to rebuild them as they were still within spec and not replacing piston and rings.
Whilst I had everything apart i cleaned valve covers and timing case cover with my pressure washer and carby cleaner then sat them in the sun to dry. My valve cover breather was pretty much blocked with carbon so pay particular attention to this as its about a 3-5mm hole on the inside.
I cleaned everything as the previous 1 owner didn't service the car properly. Engine was filthy and covered with carbon. All parts nuts/bolts intake manifold were all washed and dried.
Note! Spray CRC into oil pump and other engine components to prevent rusting/seizing.
Note! Use CRC and a fine sharpening stone
( bunnings $25 ) on cylinder block in figure 8 or circular motion to ensure its clean/perfectly flat/level.
I used lots of CRC & rags to ensure its clean. Spray CRC into bores so it doesn't rust!
Make sure you remove all old silicone from timing case and block face with Stanley knife blades before refitting.
I did a few dry runs with timing case cover to line-up oil pump as I moved it during cleaning.
Note! Using your manual replace cylinder heads and tighten/torque in correct order ( use new bolts ) Remember to use silicone on the front sections of cylinder heads( block and gasket ) the manual says where it must be applied!
Note! When fitting timing case cover ensure the oil pump pick-up o-ring seats correctly! Its easy for it to pop out! Pay particular attention with the silicone on the known leaking areas ( drivers side ).
I replaced all timing chains, tensioners ect as well as water pump, thermostat, radiator due to age. VRS kit new head bolts and some genuine Toyota bits ( valve cover gaskets ). I bought original makers water pump, thermostat and radiator off fleebay.
All up around $2000 and 20+ hours work. Many hours cleaning parts not included.
I hope this post helps someone else out. Leave a message if you need any help.
Short story, engine overheated resulting in blown head gasket ( bank 2 No.6 ) passenger side. I decided to do job myself due to working/not working Victorian lockdowns.
Not an overly complicated job ( labour intensive )but some very important steps and good mechanical knowledge is needed.
You will need a good set of tools to start with! Including torque wrenches, spline drive sockets, workshop manual, lots of rags. Endeavour tools has after market pulley holding tool.
I'm not going to go through all the steps in removing all the bolt-ons.
Remove batteries, bash plates, engine cover, radiator, rocker covers, upper intake manifold, disconnect A/C compressor, power steering pump ect noting all the bolts and wiring locations. Note! Idler pulley bolt is left had thread.
Note! I kept all my parts and bolts together and laid it in order especially the timing case bolts i put in shape of cover!
Note! Before removing the crankshaft pulley turn the engine to TDC cylinder 1 as per manual.
Once i removed the timing case cover i found bank 2 ( passenger side ) exhaust timing chain had stretched ( very slack ) compared with bank 1
( drivers side ) i decided to replace these whilst I was there.
Before undoing anymore you will notice a coloured link on each of the 3 chains, main chain has 3 orange/red links exhaust chains have a black link.
Before you proceed with removing the timing chains
( no return point ) do this. Put crankshaft pulley bolt back in and turn over till all these timing marks line up.
There is a black dot on crankshaft ( square part with rounded corners, drive for oil pump ) coloured link on crankshaft timing chain will line up in the centre with this mark!
The other 2 coloured links will line up with the intake camshaft sprockets banks 1 & 2. Bank 1 ( drivers side ) link will be in the middle of the single line of the sprocket ( on the sprocket ). There is 1 raised notch 1 notched out on the intake bearing cap No.1 ( front closest to intake camshaft sprocket ). The notched out part & line on camshaft sprocket will be central with the coloured link!.
Bank 2 ( passenger side ) intake camshaft sprocket has 2 lines, the coloured link ( where links join ) will be on each line and the single raised timing mark on the intake bearing cap No 1 ( closest to camshaft sprocket ) will be in the centre of these marks/coloured link.
The exhaust timing chains have 1 black link on each chain and they will line up with an indentation dot
( centre ) of each exhaust sprocket.
You may need to turn the engine over several times but they will all eventually line up!
I did this to ensure that when I put the heads back on and the camshafts back in all the chains and timing marks will all line up! Take photos if need be to ensure its exactly the same as when you pulled it apart!
Its now set at exactly TDC cylinder 1!
Note! When you put chains back together starting with exhaust sprocket and intake sprocket line up exhaust chain link with the indentation mark in the centre ( as previously mentioned ). Hold the 2 sprockets in front of the camshafts to get an idea of where the timing marks are on the intake sprocket in relation to the timing marks on the intake camshaft bearing caps.
You may need to turn the intake sprocket around to line it up. Both sprockets will only go on 1 way as they have alignment studs on the camshafts!
Remember to install the camshaft tensioners first before you put the sprockets on! Ensure that you torque all bolts as specified in the manual.
Note! Most important, when all the chains are back on and lined up turn the engine over by hand. If you have any resistance something is wrong! I turned engine over till all marks and links were aligned again.
Note! When removing cylinder head bolts follow the workshop manual, especially on bank 2 front 2 bolts!
You also need to tighten the crankshaft pulley to 250Nm thats what the pulley holder tool is used for and removel or remove the starter motor and jam with a big screwdriver.
My cylinder head failed between 4 & 6. I had heads crack tested and the surfaces machined. I chose not to rebuild them as they were still within spec and not replacing piston and rings.
Whilst I had everything apart i cleaned valve covers and timing case cover with my pressure washer and carby cleaner then sat them in the sun to dry. My valve cover breather was pretty much blocked with carbon so pay particular attention to this as its about a 3-5mm hole on the inside.
I cleaned everything as the previous 1 owner didn't service the car properly. Engine was filthy and covered with carbon. All parts nuts/bolts intake manifold were all washed and dried.
Note! Spray CRC into oil pump and other engine components to prevent rusting/seizing.
Note! Use CRC and a fine sharpening stone
( bunnings $25 ) on cylinder block in figure 8 or circular motion to ensure its clean/perfectly flat/level.
I used lots of CRC & rags to ensure its clean. Spray CRC into bores so it doesn't rust!
Make sure you remove all old silicone from timing case and block face with Stanley knife blades before refitting.
I did a few dry runs with timing case cover to line-up oil pump as I moved it during cleaning.
Note! Using your manual replace cylinder heads and tighten/torque in correct order ( use new bolts ) Remember to use silicone on the front sections of cylinder heads( block and gasket ) the manual says where it must be applied!
Note! When fitting timing case cover ensure the oil pump pick-up o-ring seats correctly! Its easy for it to pop out! Pay particular attention with the silicone on the known leaking areas ( drivers side ).
I replaced all timing chains, tensioners ect as well as water pump, thermostat, radiator due to age. VRS kit new head bolts and some genuine Toyota bits ( valve cover gaskets ). I bought original makers water pump, thermostat and radiator off fleebay.
All up around $2000 and 20+ hours work. Many hours cleaning parts not included.
I hope this post helps someone else out. Leave a message if you need any help.
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