GRJ120 Evaporator replacement

[Ardy74 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Ardy74]

My 2005 GRJ120R 4.0Lr V6, front a/c only not climate control. A/C was blowing warm air on the two passenger side air vents and drivers side wasn't as cold as it should be. The compressor was still cycling on and off when a/c turned on, refridgerant still in system. Did visual inspection of high/low pressure lines, condenser, compressor and schrader valves/caps. No signs of leaking refrigerant oil anywhere. Asked my mechanic, he said most likely the evaporator and a dye test could confirm. As it was slowly dying and nothing visual i put it down to the evaporator was leaking as well. I think if i had done a dye test it most likely would only have been evident underneath car where condensate drain is not inside cabin as HVAC system is pretty well sealed. The evaporator part number is CN5302 from Cooldrive, you may need someone in the trade to get for you!. These are the steps I did for the job. Disconnect negative and positive from batteries. Use a couple of rags around H side of a/c schrader valve using a small screwdriver or similar to depress valve. Make sure you hold a rag over the top so you don't sray oil/gas on yourself. Check the low pressure line as well making sure there is no gas/oil left in the system. Mine had barley any gas left in it so it wasn'tfar from compressornot workingat all. On drivers side remove plastic under steering column. Remove white plastic cap, 1 screw to expose refridgerant manifold, thats the 2 a/c lines going through firewall to the evaporator. It's in a tight spot but doable. Take out the 2 allen key bolts size 5/32 holding the manifold to the evaporator and gently pull to disengage off the evaporator. Now passengers side. Next Remove small trim above glove box, it has 3 push in clips. Take off plastic panel under glove box. Remove glove box. Take small trim off, between firewall and front of console. Now remove all the plug harnesses from memory I think 6 from the computer and the other 3 harnesses right next to it. Now remove the 2 nuts m10 socket at the top and 1 at the bottom of the computer and wiggle it out. Next step is removing the fan housing from memory 1 m10 nut at the bottom on firewall, 1 m10 hex head screw bottom r/h side, 1 middle r/h side and 1 at the top. You will need to disconnect the fan electrical plug and a/c sensor plug between fan housing and HVAC housing. Gently pull fan housing to the left/down and out. A bit of wiggling is required for this. Next step remove HVAC housing cover 7 screws and gently pull off. Now evaporator coil can now be pulled out to the left, again gently. Take the sensor thats pushed into the coil out to use in the new evaporator. I cleaned out HVAC housing with hot soapy water and a rag. Gently pour some hot water into the bottom of the housing to make sure condensate drain is running freely, you may need a rag so not to spill water on the carpet. I cleaned my fan housing up in hot soapy water after removing the fan and other electrical bits. When installing the new evaporator remember to put the sensor in the same position. Installation is same in reverse order. Job took around 4/5 hours start to finish. Took my car to my mechanic and he vacced it down, pressure tested it and charged it up. All works perfectly again.

[KRH Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close KRH]

I just bought as 2nd Prado (we already have a 2004 GXL 5sp manual ) and this recent buy last week is a 2007 GXL auto
The 2004 had the aircon pump replaced a couple of years ago and that system is always nice and cold

The 2007 prado the aircon was not cold at all.
This is still the manual type with the round dials which i like better than the more complex auto system

Checked the system and very low on gas but still had the green dye in it and pump was still kicking in -
Charged it back up (my son is a commercial frigi in his own business and has R134a gas)
Now getting cold but not as cold as it should be and will have to find out where was leaking from, but it could be a stuffed pump -
i am also aware the Prado evaps are prone to develop a leak due to the thin alloy they are made of.

The previous owner reckons it was re-gassed two years ago and has only stopped getting cold over this summer - it was his wifes car
It is always worse than just needing a re-gas on these cars and source of leak still needs to be found and fixed and a 2007 pump is probably seen its days and needs replacing

[Ardy74 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Ardy74]

Hi KRH, when your son charged it up did he vacc it down and pressure test it? Did it hold? Yes after reading lots of posts and asking questions I put it down to a leaking evaporator. If you can't see dye and the compressor was still cycling i think the evaporator is probably stuffed. Seeing that you have the twist type a/c dials (not climate control) I presume the evaporator is acceptable without removing the dash. To check pull the panel out from underneath the glove box to see if its acceptable. If you can't see it properly then take the glove box out to and you'll be able to clearly see the evaporator access panel. Look up the Cooldrive website and check out the lists of evaporators. They sell a genuine and non genuine coil. Good luck and let me know how you go.

[KRH Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close KRH]

I haven't got back to it yet as weather has cooled going into winter and been flat out with work - but will vac it down & pressure test & report back once that is done -
i have the R134 gas bottle at home now & i have my own set of gauges - just need to get my son over with vacc machine and scales but he has been too busy as well

[grbeiz Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close grbeiz]

Hi KRH, when your son charged it up did he vacc it down and pressure test it? Did it hold? Yes after reading lots of posts and asking questions I put it down to a leaking evaporator. If you can't see dye and the compressor was still cycling i think the evaporator is probably stuffed. Seeing that you have the twist type a/c dials (not climate control) I presume the evaporator is acceptable without removing the dash. To check pull the panel out from underneath the glove box to see if its acceptable. If you can't see it properly then take the glove box out to and you'll be able to clearly see the evaporator access panel. Look up the Cooldrive website and check out the lists of evaporators. They sell a genuine and non genuine coil. Good luck and let me know how you go.

Hi Ardy, what do you mean by stuffed evaporator?

[waks Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close waks]

Just replaced my condenser on the weekend and its pretty straight forward.
Followed Ardy74's guide and it all went smooth.

Definitely take out the computer to give you the room to wiggle out the white air ducting assembly.

I used a Denso condensor, approx $220 delivered.

[Ardy74 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Ardy74]

Glad to have helped you waks and yes its a pretty easy job to do.