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DIY suspension install/upgrade for Grande

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  • DIY suspension install/upgrade for Grande

    What you need is:
    • A good workshop trolley jack
    • Jack stands
    • A good socket set
    • A good breaker bar
    • An allen key you are willing to sacrifice to make it shorter
    • A helper


    Note: no spring compressors required. Woot!

    The rears are easy.
    1. Jack up and place jack stands on the chassis.
    2. Remove wheel and place jack under the axle to jack it up.
    3. Remove top shock nut and loosen bottom bolt. Lower axle a bit. Compress the shock and it should come free.
    4. Replace new shocks and then jack up the axle.
    5. Tighten bottom bolt and top nut.
    6. Replace wheel and repeat for other side.



    For the fronts: (If you do not have a Grande, ignore steps 3 and 4 below)
    1. Jack up and place jack stands on the chassis (under front doors).
    2. Remove both wheels.
    3. You will need a shortened allen key to remove the 2 socket head cap screws that holds the TEMS module to the bracket at the top of the strut. One screw can be seen. The other one is behind the TEMS module and can't be seen.
    4. Remove TEMS bracket from the top of the strut. Feed the TEMS cables back into the engine bay and secure it away from moving parts.
    5. Remove sway bar link. Loosen sway bar mount on the chassis or remove it altogether. (remove bashplates if you are removing the swaybar entirely)
    6. Jack up on the lower control arm (LCA) until the jack takes the weight.
    7. Remove top strut nut.
    8. Remove lower strut nut (do not turn the lower strut bolt as this will damage the screw thread).
    9. Remove 2 bolts on the LCA (the ones either side of the castle nut).
    10. Loosen the cam bolts on the LCA paying attention not to move the cam as this is the alignment adjustment for camber (if it moves a bit, it doesn't matter as you will need an alignment anyway).
    11. Now lower the jack and the strut will separate from the spring.
    12. Once the strut is fully extended, remove the bottom strut bolt and the strut and spring is now free.
    13. Put the new spring and strut in, inserting the lower strut bolt first and loosely spin on the nut.
    14. with a helper, slowly jack up the LCA while threading the top strut pin through the hole. As you do this the spring will compress.
    15. Jack up until the jack takes all the weight.
    16. Tighten nut on top of the strut.
    17. Replace the 2 bolts on the bottom of the LCA.
    18. Tighten up the cam bolts.
    19. Tighten up the lower strut bolt and nut.
    20. Lower jack and remove (REMEMBER: steps 18 and 19 must be completed with the jack taking all the weight or the bushes will wear out prematurely)
    21. Repeat for the other side.
    22. Once both sides are done, replace sway bar.
    23. Put wheels back on.
    24. Go for a test drive and re-torque wheel nuts.
    25. Once suspension height has settled, go for an alignment.
    26. Spend the money you saved to take the missus out for dinner.


    Torque Settings:
    Description Torque (Nm)
    Tie rod end lock nut 88
    Shock absorber piston rod x Suspension support sub-assy 25
    Shock absorber (upper) x Body 64
    Shock absorber (rear) bracket x Body 29
    Stabilizer link x Steering knuckle 70
    Hub nut 112
    Shock absorber x Lower arm 135
    Upper arm x Steering knuckle arm 110
    Skid control sensor x Upper arm 13
    Upper arm x Body 115
    Lower arm x Suspension cross member 135
    Lower ball joint attachment x Steering knuckle arm 225
    Stabilizer bracket x Body 40

    Last edited by amts; 30-10-2014, 11:59 AM.
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  • #2
    Sway bar nut and Cam bolt nut
    Click image for larger version

Name:	1 Sway bar nut.jpg
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    Bottom strut nut/bolt
    Click image for larger version

Name:	2 bottom strut nut.jpg
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    LCA bolts
    Click image for larger version

Name:	3 LCA bolts.jpg
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ID:	644117
    Last edited by amts; 27-08-2015, 05:44 PM.
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    • #3
      Reserved 2
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      • #4
        So wheres the step by step pictures? I think I understand how you do this without compressors by would like to see it
        Can't we just keep travelling?
        Travelling Panelbeater
        Follow us on Facebook... Mr & Mrs Whitey's Great Oz Trek

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        • #5
          Great instructions amts. Followed them installing the lift in the front of mine today and it worked a treat. I found it to be a better way than removing the spring and strut together and using spring compressors.
          [FONT=Verdana][COLOR="#0000CD"]2008 GXL D4D Work in progress[/COLOR][/FONT]

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          • #6
            Was this a 2" lift? Did you not have to replace the rear airbags?
            What make and model springs did you use? I have an ARB winch bar and will put a winch one day, so I need to know what spring models I should do before my upgrade.
            thanks
            2007 Prado Grande

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            • #7
              Hi Josh,
              Good to see others using the alternative method.

              Rudie,
              Its a 2" lift with Dobinsons c59-302 for the front.
              I changed the rear airbags after it went off with a bang due to old age. I went for Airbagman extended airbags, OA6011.
              http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-in-120-Grande
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              • #8
                Hey Andrew or Joshy.
                This sounds like a clever teqnique.
                I am picturing step 9.... "Remove 2 bolts on the LCA (the ones either side of the castle nut)."
                I cant picture where these 2 bolts are.
                Ive had my struts in & out a couple of times now and I just cant picture this.
                This week I think ill be upgrading the springs to HD so Id be keen to get my head around it.
                Cheers. Drew.
                HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
                MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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                • #9
                  Hey Drew,

                  The bolt head face downwards. I'll take a picture.
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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by amts View Post
                    Hey Drew,

                    The bolt head face downwards. I'll take a picture.
                    Thanks Andrew, but Ive actually got it sussed out now.

                    The missus got home in the car and I stuck my head under and had a look... Its actually very straight forward!

                    I like the idea of changing the springs without scratching them up!

                    Nice one AMTS, Im surprised this teqnique hasnt been done / shared previously. Thats thinking out side of the square... I like it!
                    HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
                    MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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                    • #11
                      No worries.

                      I like thinking outside the square. Usually happens in the middle of the night. But I did get help for this from the FJCC forums.
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                      • #12
                        Hey amts,

                        Awesome. Thanks for sharing......because sharing is caring.....HAHA, HEHE, HOHO......sorry about that.
                        Has anybody done this lift and kept the standard shocks, and would it be ok?
                        I don't do anything crazy, most my my offroading is either beach or slightly rough tracks.
                        Not really interested in doing the really rough stuff.

                        Cheers

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by amts View Post

                          LCA bolts
                          [ATTACH=CONFIG]10864[/ATTACH]
                          Gday Andrew.

                          Would you happen to know a torque for these two bolts?
                          My workshop manual doesnt have a spec for them.

                          Cheers mate. Drew.
                          HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
                          MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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                          • #14
                            Here's the table for HT 8.8 hex bolts
                            M6 10.5Nm
                            M8 25Nm
                            M10 52Nm
                            M12 95Nm
                            M14 145Nm
                            M16 230Nm

                            And for HT 8.8 flanged hex hd bolts
                            M6 12Nm
                            M8 28Nm
                            M10 58Nm
                            M12 105Nm
                            M14 165Nm

                            I'm guessing that the LCA bolts are either M14 or M16? Can't remember exactly. If it shears off, go back half a turn :P
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                            • #15
                              No worries!
                              That a much more complex answer than expected.
                              Ill copy them down for future reference. .. including the half turn back bit as well!
                              Thanks again.
                              HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
                              MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.

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