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  • front strut spacers

    Hi guys, I guess my query has already probably been covered to death, but here goes.

    I see a number strut spacers on the market, and would appreciate some feed back on them.

    I am not ready to upgrade my suspension yet (i.e. currently a bit pricey for my wallet), and my current use is pretty light i.e. currently touring, gravel and sand.
    Weight wise I currently have a sovereign bar and cradle, and tow points of course (which I assume all totals about 40-50kg). The front suspension height (bottom of wheel rim to top of wheel arch) is 730mm, so about 20mm lower than stock height I think.
    I have a bash plate to install in the next few weeks, which I guess will sink the front a little more (20kg?).

    So to the point, Is the installation of a couple of strut spacers (say 5 - 10mm) a viable option, or should they be avoided, contrary to the flashy advertising about them.

    Thanks Eddie F

  • #2
    Dont do this. Spacers are a quick fix which dont address the shortcomings of the oem suspension. Very likely not legal for road use as well, check your state regs. Save up and get a full suspension solution. I know you arent in Qld but contact John Zordo (google zordos suspension) and just talk to him. He will give you some good advice and when you are ready he can supply the suspension components for diy or fitment by others.
    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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    • #3
      You can get away with 6mm strut spacers as that won't require the removal of the studs in the top hat as the thread length is just enough to fit 6mm strut spacers. This would give you nearly 12mm lift from your current height.
      If you have experienced D4D engine failure, please complete this survey ​http://goo.gl/forms/bpJSYjq0Zx
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      • #4
        Thanks for the heads up Mjrandom, I had never considered that they may be illegal even if we are talking about a minor height adjustment. I will certainly contact John when I am ready to upgrade, just didn't want to waste his valuable time before this.

        Thanks Amts, yes I was hoping a quick install without having to modify the strut itself and the spacer option seemed to fit the bill.
        Assuming they are legal, would a 6mm adjustment cause any risk?

        More importantly at what point does a sagging front suspension pose a problem to the integrity of the suspension ?

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        • #5
          FYI:
          Spacers on springs are not street legal in SA:

          https://www.sa.gov.au/topics/driving...n-modification

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          • #6
            Thanks RPP, good to know. Don't wan't roadworthy issues next time I head across to Robe.
            Would I be Ok if they are legal in the State of registration? as I guess there is some sort of agreement/allowance between States for visiting vehicles from another State with different regulations?


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            • #7
              Thanks everyone for the input. Based on your information provided I will wait till I get the suspension upgraded.

              cheers Eddie F

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              • #8
                Hi guys,
                Further to the question of spacers, I have started to instead look at a suspension upgrade after some great advice from the Prodopoint members (and have swapped a couple of e-mail with Zordo about options who has been very helpful).

                Assuming a 2 inch lift, and considering the amount of Km's on the old girl (240 000KM), will a lift potentially cause other maintenance and reliability issues? Mainly the change in angle of the CV's (which I assume has accumulated wear over the years). I have also have seen a couple of comments about potential vibrations after a lift, has anyone experienced this?

                Is it also true that a lift that exceeds 2 inches from standard vehicle height (including as a result of larger wheel size) on a vehicle with VSC becomes unroadworthy?

                Cheers, Eddie F

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                • #9
                  The only issue I have found lifting an older 4wd was the CV boots started leaking. Weird because the CV angle was not extreme and only went from pointing up to down at pretty much the same angle.

                  As for legalities check your local regulations. AMTS has posted a link to state by state regs. You are in Vic which I think is the same as Q so you can do an overall lift of 75mm incorporating 50mm suspension and 25mm tyres (diameter up to 50mm).
                  My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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                  • #10
                    Yep, cv boots sound like a problem

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                    • #11
                      No big deal with the CVís. If you work on cars a little or know somebody who could do the CV shaft change for you, itís a simple job. Once a boot develops a leak from where ribs are contacting one another just replace the whole cv shaft as itís easier & unbelievably cheap. You can pick them up from EBay for $105 and itíll serve you well for quite a few years. They really are easy to replace as a diy if you have a comprehensive tool collection & if youíve tinkered with cars before or replaced tie rods or rack ends before for eg. You should only need to replace the cv shaft on each side of the car once during the time youííd own it. Unless youíre 4wding in rough overgrown areas where youíve got the increased chance of puncturing a boot from sharp sticks littered all over a track or are driving over juvenile lantana bushes or something.

                      But if you puncture, slightly tear a boot itís no biggy either as inside the boot the cv knuckle is packed with thick tacky grease that wonít all leak out in a hurry. CVís can function perfectly well for years after a puncture and moist patch developing underneath. If it starts to make a binding type noise when turning tight into car parks, then replace it for just over $100. Easy!
                      Last edited by Brett1979; 16-05-2019, 11:07 PM.
                      2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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                      • #12
                        Hi Brett1979,
                        Had a look previously on You tube. Yes certainly looks like it would be worth a go. I would need to pickup a 35mm socket (or maybe 36mm??). I think from memory a puller, would have to pick one up. I should have everything else.

                        Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

                        (Curious these posts don't turn up when a check for latest activity on the Pradopoint site?)

                        Cheers Eddie

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                        • #13
                          Not sure whether itís 35 or 36mm on the 120. You can buy a half inch drive impact socket for use with your torque wrench/450mm or 750mm breaker bar. As for pulling the shaft out of the splines of the diff, use a short crow bar for leverage. Iíve had it before a few times when pulling them out by hand the shaft can seperate at the knuckle. Grease the splines for ease of removal next time if need be. Youíll need a heavier hammer to smack on the tie rod knuckle to seperate the ball joint as a standard weight hammer wonít cut it. This will allow you to turn the rotor & pull the cv shaft out of itís hold after youíve removed the axle nut. Itís a half hr to one hr job depending on how slow or fast you work. First time will take an hour. When doing the axle nut back up, itís imperitive you do the driverís side one back up to spec or a bit more because when off-roading & spinning your wheels, applying a lot of torque to the wheels, the motion will naturally want to loosen the nut on you. You may or may not be able to do the job without separating the lower ball joint from the hub.
                          Last edited by Brett1979; 17-05-2019, 11:24 PM.
                          2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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                          • #14
                            With CV boots leaking after a lift, I've noticed that if the installation method of the lift involves disconnecting the UCA ball joint from the spindle, it stretches the CV boot and causes it to leak out the clamped end.

                            If you disconnected the spindle from the LCA instead, there is no issue.
                            If you have experienced D4D engine failure, please complete this survey ​http://goo.gl/forms/bpJSYjq0Zx
                            My Rig Build up

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                            • #15
                              Excellent info, thanks Brett1979 and amts. This info will save me some potential pain.

                              much appreciated.

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