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Roadsafe Front Recovery Point Installation Issues

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  • #16
    OK, swapped to use the lower hole. I guess the left side was easy and didn't seem to matter which hole was used, and I tried to do the same on the right side.
    I agree that these aren't a perfect fit as the lower arm sits proud over the top of a weld in the chassis. I did as Tin suggested and put another washer between the recovery point and chassis. Should have used 2....

    All fixed now
    Click image for larger version

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    [SIZE=1]2010 150 GXL Ebony Diesel | ARB Delux Bar | ARB Bashplates | GME 3450 UHF | Bilstein/Dobinson lift | SA LED Lighting 185W Spotties | Bridgestone D697LT | Wet Seat covers | LeighW's Voltage booster | Tin75 Pet barrier | 3D Mats'n'boot protector | Onboard ARB CKMA12 Compressor | Rhino Pioneer Platform | Roadsafe Recovery Points | Airtec Snorkel[/SIZE]


    • #17
      i must of been lucky i had no issues with welds fouling anywhere.
      Great to you got it sorted


      • #18
        Has anyone installed these on a face lift update 150 that is already fitted with an arb bullbar? I have heard that the bar needs to be removed to fit.


        • #19
          Originally posted by Wil View Post
          Has anyone installed these on a face lift update 150 that is already fitted with an arb bullbar? I have heard that the bar needs to be removed to fit.
          I know ARB say their bar needs removing to fit their recovery points to the facelift model, not sure about the Roadsafe ones.


          • #20
            Originally posted by Wil View Post
            Has anyone installed these on a face lift update 150 that is already fitted with an arb bullbar? I have heard that the bar needs to be removed to fit.
            As mine isn't an ARB I can't be 100% sure, but I would say not. The lower bolt is a thread in the chassis and the upper bolt backing plate can be fed in from a square hole further back near the control arm. If you look back Tin has a pic of this hole. You may have to loosen off another mounting bolt for the bar to allow their backing plate to swivel out of the way a bit allowing room for the roadsafe one to slide in. A bit of patience and you should be all good.
            [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
            TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]


            • #21
              Hi guys. Reopening this one. I have a 2015 3.0 150 series VX pre facelift. Toyota nudge bar (no bull bar)

              i just received some recovery points - same as in this thread. I’ve seen a few vids on installation, which looked ok, but....

              - when I line up the driver’s side, no issues. Holes obvious. Rectangular slot to insert “nut on a wire” for unthreaded top bolt obvious. All good.

              - on the passenger side, there’s stuff everywhere! The threaded bottom hole is again obvious. At the top, however, there is some sort of bracket with some pipes - is this something to do with the VX suspension setup? There is also a rubbery cover in situ. Thing is, I can’t see anything resembling a slot for the top “nut on a wire”. I THINK the top bolt goes through the hole near the letters “KL”? See green circle. I am guessing the hole for the “nut on a wire” is the one circled in red?? This side all looks very different....Anyone encountered this? I’ll add the pic from the manufacturer for comparison.

              I’ll try to get better pics with recovery plates lined up for reference tomorrow.
              Cheers, Mat
              Attached Files
              Last edited by mat-with-one-t; 18-06-2021, 06:15 PM.


              • #22
                Quick update should it be useful to others...

                - as expected the driver’s side was easy (yes, the “nut on a wire” is fiddly. Involves one becoming a Yoga Master.

                - the passenger was actually fine, once I’d figured the approach. All the extra bits I thought would make it hard were actually out of the way. I also chose to just leave the rubbery cover guard thing (with "KL" stamped in it) in place and bolt the recovery point over the top of it. It only overlapped on a small edge near the top recovery point bolt, and didn't seem to disrupt anything. I figured this was easier than trying to pull the "KL" flap away, and then have it flapping in the breeze. This side needed a bit more bending of the wire to match it up.

                - I've left the wires showing in the pics for reference. Actually, I think I'll just tuck them in rather than cut them, in case I need to remove the recovery points in future to maybe fit a bullbar. They seem to tuck away safely.

                - I was lucky to have morning sun on the job, so it really helped to be able to see the threads of the nut-on-a-wire through the hole. Highly recommend a movable light on a stand (or similar) to get just the right angle. Also, no chance of a helper - no space! Recommend turning the wheel to either side to open up some more workspace.

                - there was no need to remove anything along the way....


                Last edited by mat-with-one-t; 19-06-2021, 10:31 AM.


                • #23
                  And other pics....


                  • #24
                    Thanks for your tips Mat, made the install easier. I bended the wires inside the chassis as well, just enough so I can still pull it out if needed.


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