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Getting wires from engine bay to the rear panel near jack compartment

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  • Getting wires from engine bay to the rear panel near jack compartment

    Hi all,

    I've just bought a Waeco fridge, and I'm running a power cable (in the Waeco battery power pack) from the engine bay back to the little side compartment just above the jack compartment in the rear-left of the vehicle. The vehicle is a 2011 GXL.

    I got the wires from the battery, through the firewall, down under the left hand side front and rear passenger kick plates and as far as the start of the rear left hand wheel arch ie. the rear of the rear-lefthand kick plate.

    I've tried to thread the wire up over the wheel arch but only got about 30cm. I've tried feeding garden hose back from the jack compartment over the wheel arch. I didn't get anywhere! Do I need to pull off the interior panel or something?

    Can someone who has done this job please tell me how to get the wire run through this part of the car? If I need to pull off the panel, exactly how do I do this?

    many thanks,
    JimboGXL

  • #2
    Why not run from the engine bay under the car along the chasis rail following existing wires or pipes/brake lines etc and then through a hole in the floor at thh rear corner. Chuck in a rubber bung to seal it up and job's a goodun

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    • #3
      You don't need to pull the panel off. Keep persisting from the rear kick plate with stiff cable (eg 4 or 6mm2 building wire) or ideally an electrician's pullwire (not flat strap). It will, after you swear at it a lot, eventually get there.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by starbuck76 View Post
        You don't need to pull the panel off. Keep persisting from the rear kick plate with stiff cable (eg 4 or 6mm2 building wire) or ideally an electrician's pullwire (not flat strap). It will, after you swear at it a lot, eventually get there.
        I even managed to slide on some black split conduit and pull it back so its was protected from vibration. Its not an easy job but as Starbuck says you will get it eventually, stopping for a beer helps too.

        Make sure you put all cables needed in there now to save you doing it again, i did the brake controller and the worklight cable at the same time as the rear power.
        [size=1]2011 GXL D4D Auto | ARB Deluxe winch bar | Bilstein/Ridepro platinum lift | MT ATZ P3's | Dick Cepek Torque rims | Airtec snorkel | Lightforce Genesis 55w HID | GME UHF | 55w HID high beam | Rhino Rack bars & Cage | ISI extreme rack | Dual Optima Batteries | Milford MXV-70 cargo barrier | ARB onboard air | Prodigy P3 | Drawers & Black widow fridge slide | Waeco CF-50 | Kaymar rear bracket and LED light | EscapeGear seat covers | Sandgrabbas and more...[/size]

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        • #5
          Having done this job by pulling the wire through it was a real PITA. When I installed my cargo barrier I removed the panel, its really easy to do and gives you full access, so if I was doing it again I would do it this way.

          Not sure how you pulled the wire through the firewall, but I cut of one off the grommets on the round plug that all the wires go through. I then bundled the wires I wanted to pull through, coated them with dish-washing liquid and pulled them through. An advantage of using the existing holes is that it is a tight fit that seals against water. My mate alos used this method.
          [B]Steve[/B]

          2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

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          • #6
            Thanks Krypto - now about that panel....

            Hey thanks for the tip mate but can you please tell me what I have to do to get that panel out exactly?

            cheers,
            JimboGXL

            Comment


            • #7
              I took the panel off to run the cables in mine and it did turn into quite a big job.

              It's not as easy as just removing that one big wheel arch panel, you have to start by removing the panel under the rear seats, which allows access to the clips which hold down the next panel in between the rear seat and wheel arch panel. This allows you to get to the screw at the base of the wheel arch panel about mid way along on the floor. It's kind of hard to describe the process on this forum, but basically keep pulling on panels to find where they are held in and it will either be a screw, or a plastic clip. A little "gentle" persuasion will release the plastic clips (read as, pull until you think it's about to break!).

              I also removed the rear plastic step panel inside the rear door so that I could run cables across the back of the car.

              Hope this helps a bit.

              VXWesty
              [SIZE=1]2011 Crystal Pearl VX D4D Auto, MT ATZ 4 Rib, Full River 105AH / Redarc SBi12 DBS (TJM Tray), CKMA12 Air Comp, Alpine INA-W910R - PDX-5 - Type-R Speakers, Engel MT60FP, Rhino Alloy Platform, Foxwing Awning, Rear 12V Cig and Engel Socket, ARB Deluxe Combi Bar, Safari Snorkel, LF 240 XGT's + HID Upgrade, HB3 (9005) HID Upgrade, Bilstein / Lovells 2" Lift Suspension, Chip-It, Alpine PKG-RSE2 Roof DVD Monitors, Maxtrax, GME TX3540 + AE409L, Avenger TDS 9.5, ARB UVP, ARB Protection Steps.
              [/SIZE]

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              • #8
                Originally posted by keencdk View Post
                Why not run from the engine bay under the car along the chasis rail following existing wires or pipes/brake lines etc and then through a hole in the floor at thh rear corner. Chuck in a rubber bung to seal it up and job's a goodun
                I second this thought. I did this in the 120 and will be using the same approach in the 150. In my case, I ran the power in split tubing on top of the chassis rail and zip tied it for security. It's well protected and easily removed for when I sell the 120. There doesn't seem to be anything gained by choosing the difficult route. Go the chicken track .

                LFaR.
                [size=1][color=#770000]29Feb12:[/color][color=#777700]12GXLTD Auto, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, WARN 9.5xp Winch, IPF 900XS, Tow, Safari snorkel, Front + Rear Recovery points, ARB OME NC Sports, ATZ-4Rib[/color][color=grey], Silver[/color]. [color=orange][b]MaxTrax[/b][/color], [color=maroon]ScanGuage II[/color], [color=blue]ARB CKMA12[/color], [color=deeppink]UHF: GME TX3440 AE4018K1 UNH047SX[/color], [color=darkgreen]Bushranger Air Jack[/color], [color=green]Staun + ARB Deflators[/color], [color=brown]WindCheetah Roof Rack[/color], [color=green]Foxwing[/color], [color=red]Super Charge MRV70, Redarc BCDC1220[/color], [color=darkblue]ARB 60L fridge[/color], [color=blue]MSA Fridge Dropdown slide[/color], [color=darkyellow]DRIFTA Drawers[/color], [color=gold]TJM Bash Plates[/color], [color=brown]TG150[/color].[/size]

                Comment


                • #9
                  hey Jimbo,

                  I ran cable from the engine Bay to the same spot where the jack area is and when i got to the spot where the rear kick plate is and the wheel arch meet, i just popped out the cup holder and i could reach it that way. not sure if u have tried that.
                  2010 150 GXL Prado T/D - ARB Deluxe Bullbar, Lightforce 240XGT HID Spotlights, Mickey Thompson ATZ 265/70/17, GME TX3540 UHF, ARB Air Compressor, 2" OME Sports Suspension, Safari Snorkel, Redarc Dual Battery System, MSA 4X4 Seat Covers, Runva 11XP winch, ARB UVP, 2 3/4" straight through Beaudesert Exhuast.

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                  • #10
                    Hey thanks Trichter. I had actually done that! I got some el cheapo 2mm tie wire from Bunnings, and straightened a 2m piece of it. I found that I could poke it down through the LH cup holder and it came out (after 5 min of poking) at the rear of the rear-left kick plate area. I then taped the power cable onto the wire with an overlap of about 15cm and then pulled the wire back through the cup holder. From there, it's easy to reach back into the area where you want to fit the power box.

                    ARB wanted to charge me $400 for that and remove my rear seats and so on. Having done it once, I could do the entire installation again in under one hour including fitting the power box.

                    Hope this is of help to future battlers!

                    Cheers,
                    JimboGXL

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      hi,
                      when i installed the coupler tec electronic rust protector i
                      used a double insulated wire and run it through the chasis from the left
                      front to left rear then through the rubber groment and sealed it with
                      bostic...

                      nick.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by keencdk View Post
                        Why not run from the engine bay under the car along the chasis rail following existing wires or pipes/brake lines etc and then through a hole in the floor at thh rear corner. Chuck in a rubber bung to seal it up and job's a goodun
                        Hi All, I did this today. Factory grommet behind the panel with the jack in it. Took the grommet out and feed wire through the hole and pulled through. Then ran along fuel/Brake lines back and up into engine bay. Quick and easy no need to move all the kick panels and run through the cab. Punched a neat hole through the grommet to seal for dust and then wired a double 12v narva sockets and voltmeter.
                        Last edited by Secco; 13-03-2017, 05:37 AM.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Secco View Post
                          Hi All, I did this today. Factory grommet behind the panel with the jack in it. Took the grommet out and feed wire through the hole and pulled through. Then ran along fuel/Brake lines back and up into engine bay. Quick and easy no need to move all the kick panels and run through the cab. Punched a neat hole through the grommet to seal for dust and then wired a double 12v narva sockets and voltmeter.
                          Secco, I think you've saved me about a days work. Cheers.
                          2014 VX, White, TJM Bullbar, Xray Vision HID driving lights, Hayman Reese Towbar, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, dobinsons lift, Coopers LT ATs

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