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My Tow Pro and Anderson Plug Install

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  • My Tow Pro and Anderson Plug Install

    I sold my Prado to my parents, but did a couple of extra modifications before handing it over. This thread is my last contribution to this forum, so I also wanted to say "thanks!" - it's been a great community to be a part of and an excellent resource for the Prado! Two thumbs up!

    SUMMARY
    The car already has a compressor and dual battery system (as per this thread). My parents tow a camper around, so they needed an Anderson plug at the tow bar and an electric trailer braking system. They also use the large 7-pin round trailer plug, plus it made more sense to have the compressor outlet at the rear of the car so that it can reach the camper tyres. I should note that it probably took longer because I was modifying an existing system, rather than doing it all from scratch.

    Components
    Redarc Tow Pro Elite Kit
    50Amp Anderson Plug
    50Amp MAnual Reset Circuit Breaker
    6B&S (~13.5mm˛) Twin Cable
    8B&S (~8mm˛) Twin Cable
    13B&S (~2.9mm˛) Twin Cable
    Cable Lugs
    10mm Air Hose
    18mm Rubber-lined Hose Saddles
    Air-On-Board Compressor Dash Switch
    Aluminium Angle Section
    16 Beers


    Anderson Plug
    The cable runs from the auxiliary battery to the passenger side of the fire-wall, then along the door sills to the compartment where the jack is stored. I pulled apart a small section around the third row seats and found a fairly accesssible grommet to get the cable out to the tow bar. I had to do a bit of tricky manipulation of the cable to make it sit nicely in the door sill channels to get it to work, but got there in the end. Getting the cable to the third row was easy. Once you have the second row sill out, the door seal is freely removed. I peeled a bit of that back and was very easily able to push a tongue through to the third row cup holder. At the battery end, I had to doctor up a bracket for the extra switch. If I had my time again, I probably would have made up a bus bar to make it all a bit neater. This time, rather than hiring the hex crimpers, I bought them. Cost me $150 (Utilux #22 Crimps).

    Tow Pro Elite
    Like many others, I mounted the Tow Pro under the dash, but I didn't trust the double-sided tape to last forever, so I wedged a block of form-ply in the gap (perfect fit) and screwed it in. I powered the Tow Pro from the main battery, via an auto-reset circuit breaker. 8B&S twin cable. Probably overkill. I ran the 13B&S cable to the jack compartment and terminated to the 12V trailer brake wire (loose blue wire) and to the car's brake light wire (red wire with black trace). The reason I chose to take the signal from the brake light rather than from the purple brake pedal wire is because I don't think stability/traction control brake signals would be applied through the purple wire. I can't imagine insurance companies being too cooperative if they found that a trailer brake system circumvented safety braking systems. Also, I stumbled across this article, which states to use a diode to prevent back-feeding power into the vehicle from the trailer braking system. This is something I think should be installed if wire in at the pedal too. I only ever use 1N4007 diodes. I haven't found a practical use for smaller diodes when this one will do the trick too... Putting the dial in the centre console seemed like a no-brainer to me. I'd want to see what the trailer brake is doing while I'm driving, plus I think it needs to be easily reachable without fumbling blindly.


    I had to make up a new bracket to mount the 50A breaker for the Anderson plug.
    Click image for larger version

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    I've put the Tow Pro's 30A auto-reset breaker after the isolator breaker so that if the isolator is tripped, it'll disable ALL aftermarket electrics. It's highly unlikely to trip on it's own.
    Click image for larger version

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    The Tow Pro mounted behind the glove box
    Click image for larger version

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    The Tow Pro dial - actually dead straight but the pic doesn't do that justice
    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by AK7; 18-04-2017, 05:56 PM.

  • #2
    Compressor
    The idea was to get hands away from the compressor because it gets so damned hot. From recollection, I had the 10mm hose made up at 6750mm. Just long enough to reach the tow bar with a bit of a loop to install into a tank later on. Got it professionally crimped and then found 18mm rubber-lined hose clamps to mount it to the chassis. I really didn't want the hose in the chassis because a lot of the edges of the holes in the chassis are sharp enough to sever a hose over time, plus I found the chassis collects dirt whenever the car goes off-road. The hose would trap dirt in there. The threaded bolt holes were well placed along the rail. When I reached the rear of the car, I ran the hose over the top plate for the rear springs to get to the other side of the chassis rail so it could mount neatly onto the tow bar. It makes the compressor much harder to uninstall now, but that's not something that needs doing often Moving the hose out from under the bonnet also meant moving the switch to the dash. I've advised my folks to leave the circuit breaker off under the bonnet so that they get into the routine of putting the bonnet up while using the compressor.


    Tow Bar
    The final stage was making up an angle bracket to house the large round trailer plug, the Anderson plug and the air hose and then making that fit the tab on the tow bar that was originally for the flat trailer plug.


    The threads in the chassis made it easy to mount the hose securely and safely while avoiding the brake lines.
    Click image for larger version

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    Air On Board switches are the duck's nuts! Yes the compressor switch lights up too.
    Click image for larger version

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    All of the attachments at the tow bar. Next time I visit my folks, I'll mount the 7-pin flat connector above the round connector. Options
    Click image for larger version

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    The finished product at the posterior end...
    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by AK7; 18-04-2017, 05:52 PM.

    Comment


    • #3
      Tow Pro Elite fitting

      Originally posted by AK7 View Post
      I sold my Prado to my parents, but did a couple of extra modifications before handing it over. This thread is my last contribution to this forum, so I also wanted to say "thanks!" - it's been a great community to be a part of and an excellent resource for the Prado! Two thumbs up!

      SUMMARY
      The car already has a compressor and dual battery system (as per this thread). My parents tow a camper around, so they needed an Anderson plug at the tow bar and an electric trailer braking system. They also use the large 7-pin round trailer plug, plus it made more sense to have the compressor outlet at the rear of the car so that it can reach the camper tyres. I should note that it probably took longer because I was modifying an existing system, rather than doing it all from scratch.

      Components
      Redarc Tow Pro Elite Kit
      50Amp Anderson Plug
      50Amp MAnual Reset Circuit Breaker
      6B&S (~13.5mm˛) Twin Cable
      8B&S (~8mm˛) Twin Cable
      13B&S (~2.9mm˛) Twin Cable
      Cable Lugs
      10mm Air Hose
      18mm Rubber-lined Hose Saddles
      Air-On-Board Compressor Dash Switch
      Aluminium Angle Section
      16 Beers


      Anderson Plug
      The cable runs from the auxiliary battery to the passenger side of the fire-wall, then along the door sills to the compartment where the jack is stored. I pulled apart a small section around the third row seats and found a fairly accesssible grommet to get the cable out to the tow bar. I had to do a bit of tricky manipulation of the cable to make it sit nicely in the door sill channels to get it to work, but got there in the end. Getting the cable to the third row was easy. Once you have the second row sill out, the door seal is freely removed. I peeled a bit of that back and was very easily able to push a tongue through to the third row cup holder. At the battery end, I had to doctor up a bracket for the extra switch. If I had my time again, I probably would have made up a bus bar to make it all a bit neater. This time, rather than hiring the hex crimpers, I bought them. Cost me $150 (Utilux #22 Crimps).

      Tow Pro Elite
      Like many others, I mounted the Tow Pro under the dash, but I didn't trust the double-sided tape to last forever, so I wedged a block of form-ply in the gap (perfect fit) and screwed it in. I powered the Tow Pro from the main battery, via an auto-reset circuit breaker. 8B&S twin cable. Probably overkill. I ran the 13B&S cable to the jack compartment and terminated to the 12V trailer brake wire (loose blue wire) and to the car's brake light wire (red wire with black trace). The reason I chose to take the signal from the brake light rather than from the purple brake pedal wire is because I don't think stability/traction control brake signals would be applied through the purple wire. I can't imagine insurance companies being too cooperative if they found that a trailer brake system circumvented safety braking systems. Also, I stumbled across this article, which states to use a diode to prevent back-feeding power into the vehicle from the trailer braking system. This is something I think should be installed if wire in at the pedal too. I only ever use 1N4007 diodes. I haven't found a practical use for smaller diodes when this one will do the trick too... Putting the dial in the centre console seemed like a no-brainer to me. I'd want to see what the trailer brake is doing while I'm driving, plus I think it needs to be easily reachable without fumbling blindly.


      I had to make up a new bracket to mount the 50A breaker for the Anderson plug.
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]25259[/ATTACH]

      I've put the Tow Pro's 30A auto-reset breaker after the isolator breaker so that if the isolator is tripped, it'll disable ALL aftermarket electrics. It's highly unlikely to trip on it's own.
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]25257[/ATTACH]

      The Tow Pro mounted behind the glove box
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]25260[/ATTACH]

      The Tow Pro dial - actually dead straight but the pic doesn't do that justice
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]25258[/ATTACH]
      Looks great AK7. I'm just wondering how you got the blank piece out in which you mounted the remote dial for the tow pro elite. I'm doing the exact same fitment at the moment though hit a snag when I couldnt seem to get that blanking piece out of the console (on the right of the hi/low selector switch). An ideal spot for it as it is a larger blank for the dial than the regular switch blank piece, If I could only get it out !! any tips to avoid scratching/marking the plastics with a screwdriver ? I'm hoping I dont have to remove the console and push it out from the other side.
      Cheers
      Rewstar

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm afraid you do Rewstar it needs to be pushed out from behind, its not that difficult to remove the bottom section of the console

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Starbuck View Post
          I'm afraid you do Rewstar it needs to be pushed out from behind, its not that difficult to remove the bottom section of the console
          Ok no worries. Does it just pull out on its own or are there some hidden screws/ some sort of sequence that needs to be followed.

          Comment


          • #6
            I can post a couple of photos for you tomorrow if you like

            Comment


            • #7
              That would be great. I'm going to have another crack at it tomorrow

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by rewstar View Post
                Looks great AK7. I'm just wondering how you got the blank piece out in which you mounted the remote dial for the tow pro elite. I'm doing the exact same fitment at the moment though hit a snag when I couldnt seem to get that blanking piece out of the console (on the right of the hi/low selector switch). An ideal spot for it as it is a larger blank for the dial than the regular switch blank piece, If I could only get it out !! any tips to avoid scratching/marking the plastics with a screwdriver ? I'm hoping I dont have to remove the console and push it out from the other side.
                Cheers
                Rewstar
                Thanks for the feedback Rewstar! As Starbuck said, you do have to push it out from the back side. You can see where I got lazy and nicked the plate thinking I could flick it out with a screwdriver Pulling the console apart is easier than you might think. The two plastic vertical sections on either side of the centre unclip by pulling straight back. That will reveal most of the screws you need to undo to get the rest of the console apart. You'll need the glove box out too, if you haven't already done that. The flashing across the top of it unclips and the top screws for that are hidden under there.

                Hope this pic helps a bit:

                Click image for larger version

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                Comment


                • #9
                  Double post...
                  Last edited by AK7; 20-05-2017, 08:12 AM. Reason: Please delete

                  Comment

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