Cable route to cargo bay.

[Vanders Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Vanders]

I'll be setting up my aux battery and BCDC in the cargo area, I'll be running 6B&S from the start battery and looking for some advice from those who have done similar if you ran the cable through the vehicle (through firewall & behind trim etc) or under along the chassis then up through the floor somewhere at the rear?

I'm open to the best solution.

[bazzang Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close bazzang]

From my front dual battery I ran my cable through the firewall (drivers side) then down under the scuff? panels (bottom of door openings) and in to the cargo area for fridge power. Easy enough to run. The only difficult part was getting past the middle row seats and into the cargo area as I was trying not to remove too many panels.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

I ran down the passenger side because that is where the main battery lives and there is a big grommit with a spare nipple in the firewall that can take the 6B&S. Along the under the scuff panels and behind tge rear side panel. I have a false floor and ran the cable under that to the battery and BCDC.

[Vanders Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Vanders]

Thanks guys, as my aux battery will also be in the rear the left side run from the main battery seems like the best approach then. I always get nervous removing panels though, as a previous boilermaker by trade I've tended to get a little heavy handed and broke off clips and lugs. Must remember to take a lighter touch approach.

Are the scuff panels easy to remove?

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Very. All the panels pop off easily. Go to autobarn or supercheap and buy a set of plastic trim removal tools. Maybe $30. Well worth the investment.

when you pull the cable through the grommit put one hand up there to help support the grommit or it will pull into the car. Not a huge issue but it can be a pain to refit.

[Vanders Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Vanders]

Very. All the panels pop off easily. Go to autobarn or supercheap and buy a set of plastic trim removal tools. Maybe $30. Well worth the investment.

when you pull the cable through the grommit put one hand up there to help support the grommit or it will pull into the car. Not a huge issue but it can be a pain to refit.

I appreciate the tips, will look forward to the next Brissy shin-dig.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

You won't need 6B&S if your only powering a DCDC.

[Vanders Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Vanders]

You won't need 6B&S if your only powering a DCDC.

Yeah thanks Leigh, it's only that I already have it that I thought I'd use it. Out of curiosity what size would you suggest though from main to BCDC in the rear?

[dBC Member Find all posts View Profile Close dBC]

How big is your charger? Here's what Redarc recommend for their 25A and 40A chargers.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

Too make running cables bit easier get yourself a length of wire curtain hanger, spiral wound with the plastic cover a lot of times you'll be able to snake it through behind panels and use it to pull the cable through without the need to remove the panels. When you pull wire through grommets etc, pull it all the way through then back three or four centre meters smear the 3-4 centre meters with silicon then pull it back through and it will form a nice doughnut seal.

[Vanders Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Vanders]

How big is your charger? Here's what Redarc recommend for their 25A and 40A chargers.

Will be using a 1225D, so looks like I'm good anyway.

[Vanders Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Vanders]

Too make running cables bit easier get yourself a length of wire curtain hanger, spiral wound with the plastic cover a lot of times you'll be able to snake it through behind panels and use it to pull the cable through without the need to remove the panels. When you pull wire through grommets etc, pull it all the way through then back three or four centre meters smear the 3-4 centre meters with silicon then pull it back through and it will form a nice doughnut seal.

Thanks Leigh, great tip!

[2016VX Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 2016VX]

I used 6B&S and ran +ve and -ve cables through the drivers side firewall grommet and then under the scuff panels to the back cargo area. My BCDC1225D is located in the engine bay.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

2016VX, you would be better off moving it to the rear with the battery, the Redarcs don't like heat, they will derate, also the temperature compensation is built
into the in it or was if that is now not the case. For it to have accurate idea as to the temperature the battery is operating in it should be located near the battery.

You can probably fiddle with the settings to get it to increase the voltage but it would be better if it is near the battery.

[2016VX Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 2016VX]

Leigh, I should have been more descriptive, my aux battery is in the engine bay and the redarc is located in front of the radiator in the cool air, so it's only 500mm from BCDC to battery. I've spoken to Redarc extensively about the temperature compensation and the difference in temp between the battery in the engine bay and the cooler air at the redarc, and they are certain it will have minimal to no effect on the battery. It's all working well so far. Cheers.