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  • Rear anderson plug cable route

    I need to run a cable from my main battery to anderson plug on rear bumper/towbar for use with camper trailer. I have a CTEK DCDC unit in the CT near its batteries.
    I bought a wiring kit from www.australiandirect.com.au (good value I reckon).
    I am unsure whether to simply run the cable in some split conduit under the car (much easier) or if it's better to run it internally. What would you recommend?
    I'm a mug at all this but do like having a go at things. I looked underneath my newly purchased 18 month old Prado GXL with the view to doing it myself - it looked so pretty and tidy under there that I just saw my 16mm conduit looking very shabby if I went down that path - not easy to conceal - so I chickened out.
    If it's preferable to run it internally, then I'll need to find a pro to help me with that - any suggestions in Melb - I've already got all the materials.
    What do you reckon?
    thnx. Frank.

  • #2
    If nothing else if you run it internally you’ll use less cable and as such suffer less voltage drop. That said it would be a pain in the arse routing under the carpet and panelling.
    2018 VX Prado

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    • #3
      If you arent tapping off inside the car just run along the chassis rails up and out of the way. Run it in conduit. Easy. If you run inside you need to go through a grommit in the firewall and at the back, usually where the trailer plug runs.
      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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      • #4
        Thnx guys.
        Mjrandom - if i keep it outside would u favor (1) driver or passenger side (2) inside or outside edge of chassis rail. Thnx again.

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        • #5
          Down the passenger side. Off the isolator and down that side.
          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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          • #6
            Last 150 went down the inside . A lot of work pulling out the trim and getting over the rear wheel arch.
            This time went straight down front of firewall and into chassis rail. Plenty of holes to feed it through. Fed wire through 20 cm of heater hose at each end which then forced halfway into chassis rail to stop any wear on wire. Great if you can get a bit of yellow tongue from particle board flooring. Feed up the rail from the rear and tape wire on to pull through. From there cable tie to towbar and you are home.

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            • #7
              Only issue I have found with running cables in the chassis is that the cable can trap mud and rubbish inside and make it harder to flush out.
              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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              • #8
                Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                Only issue I have found with running cables in the chassis is that the cable can trap mud and rubbish inside and make it harder to flush out.
                Yeah I’m with you mjrandom, I’d be just running it on the outside. There’s enough places to trap mud , sand etc on the vehicle without giving rust a free kick by running it inside the chassis.
                2018 VX Prado

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                • #9
                  If it follows the 90 series, the way to go is along the passenger side under the edge of the carpet. This is the same route as the main loom to the rear just on the other side.

                  You just need to remove the plastic pieces that hold the carpet in place, and run through to where the rear trailer plug connector exits the vehicle, the rear panels (3rd row seats area) come out easily, the only troublesome area is when going through the firewall (I used the main loom grommet and cut a slit in the side and sealed with silicon when finished) .

                  The cable is safe from damage for it's entire length. Ken.
                  Ken
                  3.4 GXL man 1997 petrol / gas, BFG mud tyres 265 75 16, front and rear camera, Jaycar 6300Lm LED 6.5" D/L * 2, 15W LED reversing/work light, diff breathers, 42mm lift, Rear Anderson plug, Dash cam, and way too much recovery gear for one vehicle to carry around. No more HID headlamps. No more Narva D/L.

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                  • #10
                    Hi all, I would like to wire a cable from tow bar to the cabin, to connect my battery box (inside the cabin) to the trailer using Anderson plug connectors. Can you please advise where is the entry point from tow bar (rear of the car) to the cabin?
                    I am ok with wiring from front to cabin via firewall and carpets on LH side, but no idea how to go from tow bar to cabin.
                    Prado GXL 2014.

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                    • #11
                      I've just recently installed a fridge power point inside the rear cargo space. I ran the cable into the cab from outside through a rubber grommet near the fuel filler. Remove the plastic jack access panel to find this grommet. On mine it has a cable bundle running through it. Push a cable routing tool or piece of "yellow tongue plastic" down through the grommet hole and you should find it emerge near the chassis below. The cable can be squeezed through the rubber grommet, taped and reinstalled in its hole. Once inside the cabin the fun begins...

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                      • #12
                        I routed the cables on the driver's side via the existing door-sill cable channels. Behind the back door, the cables go over the (steel) wheel arch but under the plastic trim panel. Cables go through the floor behind the side/rear of this panel. See exit point image. Note that I have removed the third row seats to save weight and create space.

                        Click image for larger version

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Prada View Post
                          I've just recently installed a fridge power point inside the rear cargo space. I ran the cable into the cab from outside through a rubber grommet near the fuel filler. Remove the plastic jack access panel to find this grommet. On mine it has a cable bundle running through it. Push a cable routing tool or piece of "yellow tongue plastic" down through the grommet hole and you should find it emerge near the chassis below. The cable can be squeezed through the rubber grommet, taped and reinstalled in its hole. Once inside the cabin the fun begins...
                          Thanks, I wired 8 B&S through that grommet, very easy to find it, just next to the jack, I removed the whole grommet first and pass the cable to see where it goes ... then I put the grommet back and did a small cut, with some silicon in spray helped the cable to go through, you can see it near the chassis as indicated, then I used cable ties and tubing split to finish the installation in the tow bar. The idea with this cable is to feed the camper trailer and also the have an easier point to connect the air compressor or solar panel without the need to open the door. I cut the original terminal from the air compressor and replaced by Anderson Plugs, so I can connect from outside point without the need to open the bonnet.
                          My idea is to use a second battery inside the car using a battery box, so my rear cable will be connected to this box (another Anderson Plugs comes from front to cabin)
                          very pleased with the quick help from this forum.
                          Click image for larger version

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