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  • Fault Lights - Please Help

    I have an Australian made (I imported it to the UK) Toyota Landcruiser Prado Kakadu 2009 (KDJ150 series, VIN: JTEBH3FJ30K000643)
    It is showing a solid Engine Malfunction Indicator light, solid Skid Control light, and a flashing 4LO light.
    This is an intermittent issue which I want to say tends to go away during hot summer weather (or at least is less prevalent in these conditions) and return when it rains and/or when its cold (which is pretty much all the time in London!)
    Whilst the lights are illuminated I am unable to engage cruise control. What's worse however is that with the engine light on I will not pass my MOT this year and my car will have to be taken off of the road.
    My online investigations suggested perhaps the brake switch may be faulty.

    I took the car to a electrical auto shop who proceeded to replace the brake switch, but the issue still presented.
    They then replaced the ECU, but the issue still presented.
    They then tested all the wires related to the brake circuit and wiring and confirmed that they are all fine as are the connections, but the issue still remains.

    Worth noting that the lights will either come on as I start the engine or they won't come on as I start the engine.
    They never change state whilst I am driving i.e. if they don't come on when I start the car they will not come on as I'm driving, similarly if they do come on as I start the car they will stay on until I restart the car (whereby they may come on again, or they may not)

    I've attached photos of the fault lights, the OBDII faults (obtained via a basic OBDII adaptor and the Car Scanner app), and also the fault as presented via the hidden service menu on the centre console.

    If there's anyone on this site who can help me fix this I would be forever grateful.
    Failing that my auto sparky is telling me that the next step is to replace the main ECU at a cost of at least 1,500!

    Many thanks in advance.
    Last edited by Snodlander; 12-08-2021, 08:36 PM.

  • #2
    its not meant for Northern Hemisphere

    sound to me like you have over wound the clock spring

    you'll need to do anticlockwise full lock turns ( in a vacant car park for example ) for about an hour minimum to get it re calibrated

    it might need doing every 12 months or so - just re calibrate when its coming into winter by the sounds

    cheers

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by GEEEXL View Post
      its not meant for Northern Hemisphere

      sound to me like you have over wound the clock spring

      you'll need to do anticlockwise full lock turns ( in a vacant car park for example ) for about an hour minimum to get it re calibrated

      it might need doing every 12 months or so - just re calibrate when its coming into winter by the sounds

      cheers
      Yeah thanks GEEEXL. Is all of your advice this useful?

      Comment


      • #4
        Don't know if this helps but my employer had us driving a Landcruiser 200 series that did similar things on the dash. When you're 80 km's away from Yalgoo (look it up on Google Maps!) in the bush on a 44 deg day a very nervous time was had by all. The car still drove OK, but without cruise control or diff lock.
        Turns out the problem was caused by low battery voltage. We changed the battery and the problem hasn't come back.

        Best of luck.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by starbuck76 View Post
          Don't know if this helps but my employer had us driving a Landcruiser 200 series that did similar things on the dash. When you're 80 km's away from Yalgoo (look it up on Google Maps!) in the bush on a 44 deg day a very nervous time was had by all. The car still drove OK, but without cruise control or diff lock.
          Turns out the problem was caused by low battery voltage. We changed the battery and the problem hasn't come back.

          Best of luck.
          Thanks Starbuck76, I'm a Sandgroper myself too so know the environment around Yalgoo pretty well. Never good when you get warning lights out there.
          I have the same symptoms of no cruise or diff lock when the lights are lit, but I understand that this is down to the brake circuit "failure" since the ECU thinks it can't engage the brakes or slip function.
          I originally had this issue back in 2016 and it's been pretty much present ever since, sometimes lit up, sometimes not. I have changed my battery since (late last year) but the issue remained.
          I've also checked the voltage of the battery via the hidden service menu on the centre display and it appears to be fine.
          I would like to think, and do suspect, that it is related to a voltage difference somewhere along the lines as it only occurs at start-up, but I just don't know where to start given that the auto sparky has confirmed that the circuit, looming, connections, and switch are all fine.

          Really don't want to have to fork out for a main ECU, which may or may not fix the issue.

          Comment


          • #6
            Please keep us posted on the solution. I have the same issue and so far, all the diagnostic tests indicate the car is completely fine.

            Comment


            • #7
              Just a quick update on this for anyone who has the same issue...
              I've still got the issue, it's still intermittent, my investigations to date have pointed me towards there being a voltage difference through the Brake ECU at startup but I've no idea how to go about testing this.
              Has anyone else managed to resolve this issue? If so I'm extremely keen to find out how since I need to get my annual MOT in a month's time and if the engine MIL light stays on it will be an automatic fail and the car will need to come off the road.
              Last edited by Snodlander; 12-08-2021, 09:25 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Another update for those playing at home... 1 step closer to resolution.

                So my car's gone into another auto sparky for assessment.
                They've worked out that the issue seems to present mostly when the headlights are in the "On" position at startup (I always drive with my lights on) When the headlights are set to "Off" the error seldom occurs.

                Additionally, and super weirdly, when the headlights are on and I turn off the car, the engine idles for a few seconds (3 or 4) before stopping. If the headlights are off and I turn off the car, the engine stops immediately.
                I'm sure it's all related, as are the auto sparkys, and now they're just chasing a wiring diagram to do some further investigation.
                She's back in the shop on Thursday. I'll keep you posted on progress.

                In the meantime, if anyone knows anything about this new revelation, or knows where I can find a wiring diagram for a 2009 KDJ150 Diesel Kakadu, please jump on this thread and sing out.

                Cheers.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Snodlander View Post
                  Another update for those playing at home... 1 step closer to resolution.

                  So my car's gone into another auto sparky for assessment.
                  They've worked out that the issue seems to present mostly when the headlights are in the "On" position at startup (I always drive with my lights on) When the headlights are set to "Off" the error seldom occurs.

                  Additionally, and super weirdly, when the headlights are on and I turn off the car, the engine idles for a few seconds (3 or 4) before stopping. If the headlights are off and I turn off the car, the engine stops immediately.
                  I'm sure it's all related, as are the auto sparkys, and now they're just chasing a wiring diagram to do some further investigation.
                  She's back in the shop on Thursday. I'll keep you posted on progress.

                  In the meantime, if anyone knows anything about this new revelation, or knows where I can find a wiring diagram for a 2009 KDJ150 Diesel Kakadu, please jump on this thread and sing out.

                  Cheers.
                  In terms of problem solving, that seems to be a big clue. Are there any modifications that tap into the lighting circuit such as driving lights or extra switches?
                  [B]Steve[/B]

                  2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    There's only been 1 modification, the addition of a rear-facing fog lamp (a requirement for UK roads) I believe that this mod stole the power from the headlight dipping motor though (which hasn't worked since I got here here) It's something I've been questioning for a while however.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      When trouble shooting, something that was part of my work for a long time, always look for the change that occurred closest to the time that the problem occurred. Failing that things related, such as the fog lamp. It's more likely to be an introduced change than an inherent failure.

                      Also it sounds like a really unusual problem, not one that comes up in searches, so it's more likely to be due to an introduced change than due to an inherent fault.

                      Finally, apply Occam's razor, the less assumptions required for something to cause the problem, the more likely it's the cause. Curious to hear what it was when you get to the bottom of the problem
                      [B]Steve[/B]

                      2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        SOLVED!

                        Final update: The culprit was indeed the shoddy wiring of the aftermarket rear fog lamp.

                        It turns out that when installing the rear fog lamp, not only had the mechanic pinched the power from the motor for dipping the headlights, but they'd also connected it into the brake light circuit so it could be switched on and off with the front fog lamps from the lights stalk (despite giving it its own toggle switch on the dash next to the headlight dipper!)
                        As a consequence they'd introduced a second power feed to the brake light circuit which regularly resulted in the Brake Switch A and B correlation error as the voltage across the switch was thrown out of whack.

                        Worthwhile being mindful when introducing new spotlights etc. to your vehicle, steer clear from inadvertently introducing additional power sources into existing systems.

                        Thanks for all your helpful replies to date.
                        If anyone else is experiencing the same sort of issues (Maz45) take a look at whether or not power to the lights circuit has been compromised.

                        Comment

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