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  • 2.8L Oil Consumption

    Has anyone had oil consumption issues with their 2.8L Prado? I've gone through just over 1L of oil in 10 000km. I can't see any leaks. I had a good look from underneath and nothing on the side or back of the engine or anywhere else.
    2008 GXL D4D + Option Pack 1, Safari snorkel, factory alloy bar, dual battery system, Lovells TFR-118/TRR119 Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Prodigy P3 brake controller, factory tow bar, Orac coupling.

  • #2
    How often do you check the oil level?
    Is it going OK for most of the period and only using oil close to the 10,000 mark or is it using regularly right through the oil change cycle.

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    • #3
      I check every 3 weeks when I fill the tank. It goes down progressively. The dealer has initiated an oil usage test to measure the amount used between services. I'll have to wait a few months to find out if the issue will be fixed or if it's deemed normal.
      2008 GXL D4D + Option Pack 1, Safari snorkel, factory alloy bar, dual battery system, Lovells TFR-118/TRR119 Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Prodigy P3 brake controller, factory tow bar, Orac coupling.

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      • #4
        Not normal that’s for sure. They might use a touch towards the end of the change period but not progressively.
        I hope you have a good outcome.
        Remember the poor buggers with the early 200 series that actually ran out of oil between oil changes.
        Toyota’s response, normal usage for these engines.
        Eventually fixed all very quietly, nothing to see here.

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        • #5
          I'm hoping it's a turbo and not piston rings. I wouldn't trust the reliability of the car if the dealer open the engine to change rings.
          2008 GXL D4D + Option Pack 1, Safari snorkel, factory alloy bar, dual battery system, Lovells TFR-118/TRR119 Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Prodigy P3 brake controller, factory tow bar, Orac coupling.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by gxl_d4d View Post
            I'm hoping it's a turbo and not piston rings. I wouldn't trust the reliability of the car if the dealer open the engine to change rings.
            quite true there - 3 weeks after the dealer had my engine out for a timing chain replacement , the heater hose blew out , almost cooking the engine. I never trusted that car again , and eventually they replaced it with a new one.

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            • #7
              How many k's, is the correct oil being used? ( i.e 0w30c2) dealer serviced ?
              2012 Graphite GXL T/D Auto, with all the normal crap you fit

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              • #8
                25000km, dealer serviced. Correct oil according to invoice.
                2008 GXL D4D + Option Pack 1, Safari snorkel, factory alloy bar, dual battery system, Lovells TFR-118/TRR119 Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Prodigy P3 brake controller, factory tow bar, Orac coupling.

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                • #9
                  So was it ok in the first 10000 km? and started recently?
                  2012 Graphite GXL T/D Auto, with all the normal crap you fit

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                  • #10
                    Hi Bear63,
                    My engine has been using oil from new. I didn't pay much attention to it in the first 10 000km as I figured the engine was still breaking in. I topped it up with 1L at 5000km to get the level back to full. At the 10 000km service, the level was below half on the dipstick so I figured the engine had burnt around 2L all up. The consumption reduced between 10 000km and 20 000km but still used just over 1L, I didn't need to top up. I'll have to see how I go between 20 000km and 30 000km. I'm planning to buy a caravan so I fugure if there's a consumption issue, it will probably get worse when the engine's working harder.
                    2008 GXL D4D + Option Pack 1, Safari snorkel, factory alloy bar, dual battery system, Lovells TFR-118/TRR119 Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Prodigy P3 brake controller, factory tow bar, Orac coupling.

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                    • #11
                      What oil weight are the dealership using? Some dealerships are using 0w-30C2 which is rather thin in my opinion and other dealerships are using 5w-30C2/C3. 30w wouldnt last in my opinion and i wouldnt be surprised if it gets burnt out easily on a heavy working diesel. I use penrite 5w-40c3(meets c2 requirements) and i dont burn a drop of oil. I do service every 5000kms though.
                      im not sure what the centistoke @ 100c value is for the toyota oil for their 0w-30.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Mike-B View Post
                        What oil weight are the dealership using? Some dealerships are using 0w-30C2 which is rather thin in my opinion and other dealerships are using 5w-30C2/C3. 30w wouldnt last in my opinion and i wouldnt be surprised if it gets burnt out easily on a heavy working diesel. I use penrite 5w-40c3(meets c2 requirements) and i dont burn a drop of oil. I do service every 5000kms though.
                        im not sure what the centistoke @ 100c value is for the toyota oil for their 0w-30.
                        0W30C2 is the recommended oil, even on the penrite site, lighter oils doesn't always translate to higher usage

                        2012 Graphite GXL T/D Auto, with all the normal crap you fit

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Bear63 View Post

                          0W30C2 is the recommended oil, even on the penrite site, lighter oils doesn't always translate to higher usage
                          You are 100% correct, lighter oil does not always translate to higher usage. Although lighter oil is not able to sustain its chemical composittion under high looad and high heat environments which causes them to break down and burn off. Thats why also, on oil weight charts a xW-30 oil is recommended for ambient temps to around 30c. Any higher and the oil would not be able to supply its proper lubricating duties.
                          Penrite recommends the oil that meets the manufacturers specs, if they deviate from that then they will be liable. 0w-30c2 is great for fuel economy and temps sub 30 with not too much load on the car and keep the dpf happy with minimal soot build up thats easy to burn.
                          I personally would rather use 5w-40 especially when im loaded close to gvm in low range in our summers that are mostly above 35c. From my own personal experience and oil analysis i have done in my previous cars, lower weight oils just dont last and provide the proper lubrication in our harsh environments.
                          Again though, these are my opinions only based on the information and data I have. Dont go by what I am saying, its very easy to do you own oil analysis. They are around $30 for a kit from memory.
                          The 1GD-FTV version you find in asia like Thailand dont have a DPF, their recommended oil is alot thicker than what DPF equipped version are.

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                          • #14
                            I'll try a different oil after the next service. My car is undergoing an oil usage test so I don't want to change it half way through. Unfortunately I've already bought Shell 0w30 C2/C3 oil, enough for 3 changes so I'll use it up and then try 5w30 Penrite C3 which is slightly thicker (10% or so) according to the datasheet when hot.
                            2008 GXL D4D + Option Pack 1, Safari snorkel, factory alloy bar, dual battery system, Lovells TFR-118/TRR119 Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Prodigy P3 brake controller, factory tow bar, Orac coupling.

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                            • #15
                              Keep us posted on your results.

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