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  • ARB Twin Compressor Internal Instal

    ARB have a new kit to mount their CKMP12 twin compressor and air tank behind the left side rear trim on a Prado 150.
    Spent the entire Easter break on the install. It's a pig of a job but worth the cuts, bruises and time.

    I added extra heat shielding on the polypropylene trim near the compressor, manifold wrap on the air hose from the compressor to the tank, and vent holes around the top of the cup holder vent hot air.

    The finished job -

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    Install pic 1 - pig of a job from back to the front:

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    Install pic 2 - laying fat cables in door channels and under the carpet:

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    Install pic 3 - compressor and tank on mounting brackets:

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    Install pic 4 -, cranking battery, 80A CB on 8mm poly-carbonate sheet clamped on top:

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    RPP
    Senior Member
    Last edited by RPP; 21-04-2022, 04:21 PM.

  • #2
    nice

    Comment


    • #3
      Great spot for it, RPP. You’ll be thankful you made the effort each time you use it

      Comment


      • #4
        I took the cheat's way out and got ARB to install it for me . . . .

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        • #5
          I am getting ARB to do the install for me. Anything you can suggest that may improve the install? I noticed you included extra heat shielding. Have you any thoughts on what air tools you think are handy on an extended trip?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Wizzbang View Post
            I am getting ARB to do the install for me. Anything you can suggest that may improve the install? I noticed you included extra heat shielding. Have you any thoughts on what air tools you think are handy on an extended trip?
            Hi Wizzbang,
            sorry for the delayed response, just got back from a Kimberley trek.

            I carry battery powered tools, but the most useful air tool might be a rattle gun. Be aware that ARB's quick release air fitting is not a standard. You can either replace it with a Nitto type or put an ARB fitting on the back of your air tool.

            My suggestions for improved installation:

            1. the air-tank as fitted will get very close to/touch the edge of the upper and lower panel/flanges it sits between. I cut about 3mm off the bottom one with an angle grinder and inserted about 12" of pinchweld molding above and below as you might see in "Install pic #3".
            2. the instructions ask you to remove a large sheet of sound damping matting from the back of the trim. I glued heat shielding in its place using hot melt glue. The shielding is 10mm foam sheet with reflective aluminium foil on both sides. You have to cut the sheet to shape.
            3. in my installation one of the braided air hoses ran close to the hottest part of the compressors, so I wrapped the hose in manifold wrap + stainless steel cable ties. Its a pig of a job because of the fibre glass. You can see the bare hose in "Install pic #3".
            4. to help vent the hot air generated, I also drilled holes all round the top of the removable cup-holder that sits over the wheel arch. You might see it in the first pic "The finished job".

            At peak my twin compressors draw around 58A. I have a 70A circuit breaker in place of ARB's twin 40A fuses. It gives me the ability to deactivate the entire circuit when I'm not using the compressor.

            In the Kimberley the CB opened a couple of times when I ran the compressor for lengthy periods (it was 35C in the shade, and metal got too hot to touch in the sun).

            I was in a group that drove the Oombugarri/Carson River Track over an epic 15 days. It turns out half the vehicles had ARB twin compressors mounted internally. A mechanic in the group had and extra 9L air tank in the air circuit for 13L in his 200. All the 200s had removed the plastic cover accessing the compressors in order to allow heat to ventilate.

            We had tyre carnage in the first 3 days and had to call in 3 new tyres and 5 inner-tubes - delivered by boat from Wyndham to Oombulgarri. The mechanic with the 13L air tanks got the job of re-seating the beads. I might add a 9L tank to my setup later, when I find somewhere to put it.

            Hope that helps.
            RPP
            Senior Member
            Last edited by RPP; 13-06-2021, 08:25 AM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Wizzbang View Post
              I am getting ARB to do the install for me. Anything you can suggest that may improve the install? I noticed you included extra heat shielding. Have you any thoughts on what air tools you think are handy on an extended trip?
              Hi Wizzbang,
              You can leave the air tools at home. I've tried a die grinder and ratchet wrench. The twin compressor (and 4L tank) give the die grinder about 5-10 seconds of use before it runs out of grunt. The ratchet wrench isn't much better.

              I'll stick to battery powered tools.

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks RPP, that's great information, I had certainly considered a large capacity tank if ever needed but kicked that can down the road. Pity about the air tools.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey RPP, How'd you go with the wiring harness? did you have to modify it much to get to it work with the compressor in the back?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Scotty07 View Post
                    Hey RPP, How'd you go with the wiring harness? did you have to modify it much to get to it work with the compressor in the back?
                    I had an ARB compressor that came in their portable carry case, so I pulled it apart for the install.
                    I bought their mounting bracket kit.
                    Got the same connector (plus pins, silicone grommets etc) that ARB use for their battery clips from Radio Spares online.

                    Ran 4 (or 6?) gauge cables from the battery to the back and terminated the cables into the same connector. Just plug it in.
                    You can also just cut the ends off and splice/solder the wires together, but I took the fancy route.

                    I used a single 70A circuit breaker instead of their fuses so I can isolate the compressor when not in use. It sits on a polycarbonate sheet clamped on top of the battery (see Install pic 4).
                    The cables are too thick and the run is too long to leave it constantly energised for my blood.
                    The twin compressors gobble 58A when running.

                    Made a short extension harness for the switch using the usual spade connectors.

                    Had to buy some braided air hoses and elbow fittings from ARB to extend the air hoses.
                    RPP
                    Senior Member
                    Last edited by RPP; 06-07-2021, 09:57 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Cheers mate, I’ve just bought the single compressor so will be attempting to wire it up over the weekend hopefully.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi RPP,

                        Thanks for your effort to putting a full description and pics on how you are installing yours.

                        I am planning to do this as well, just not 100% sure should I go to a electrician or do it myself. I am not very handy to be honest.

                        During your installation, did you provision on future air locker and even possible for airing the support air bag for rear suspension?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hi andylo,
                          I've ordered a front Elocker, and already have a factory rear (E)locker. Airbags are a liability where I travel.

                          If you aren't proficient at sizing up and installing hi current electrical wiring definitely have someone who is do the install.
                          The twin compressors need upwards of 60Amps, its a long run from the cranking battery, and you mite need to commit a few sins on the big cable grommet at the forward bulkhead.

                          The install also involves pulling apart most of the inside trim along the left hand side of the vehicle.
                          Your local friendly ARB shop will know how to do it and they will have the wiring harnesses.

                          I made my own since I wanted a circuit breaker in place of their fuses.
                          I prefer to de-energise the power cable when the compressor is not in use by flicking off the CB.
                          RPP
                          Senior Member
                          Last edited by RPP; 02-11-2021, 06:16 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hey nice one RPP!

                            I have done the same to mine. I also installed the ARB electronic inflation deflation system and piped the connection to the outside of the vehicle. The blow off / vent valve has also been plumbed outside. My compressor button is on centre console switch bank with the traction control etc.

                            Being worried about the electronic pressure control, and how difficult it is to get to the install especially when out and about, I opted to also plumb in a full bypass valve. This is located in the jack area, and allows to to fully bypass the system. It has come in handy when assisting mates to get tyres back on the rim!

                            Happy 4wding!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by HappyChappy View Post
                              Hey nice one RPP!

                              I have done the same to mine. I also installed the ARB electronic inflation deflation system and piped the connection to the outside of the vehicle. The blow off / vent valve has also been plumbed outside. My compressor button is on centre console switch bank with the traction control etc.

                              Being worried about the electronic pressure control, and how difficult it is to get to the install especially when out and about, I opted to also plumb in a full bypass valve. This is located in the jack area, and allows to to fully bypass the system. It has come in handy when assisting mates to get tyres back on the rim!

                              Happy 4wding!
                              Well done, that would have kept u busy over the break.
                              Yes getting at the assembly when its buried behind the side trim, a drawer set and cargo barrier is a major chore.
                              I also planned to install the compressor button on the centre console, plus an additional 9L air tank behind the sub-tank, and the air outlet on my wheel carrier.
                              But I had less than two weeks before a big trip to the Kimberley. So I did the minimum.

                              The air tank has been handy as I've re-seated many a bead with that compressor after patching flats with sidewall rips. The 9L tank would've helped with one tyre that refused to be re-seated.
                              RPP
                              Senior Member
                              Last edited by RPP; 30-12-2021, 06:06 PM.

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