Prado 2022 Electrical Mods

[fj2prado Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close fj2prado]

When I got my Prado late last year, I found little info for what I wanted to modify in the rear boot space. Hopefully this will help others. I have a 2022 GXL with the premium pack. My last 4by also had 7 seats , which I removed, but had to store. My first decision - Leave the 3rd row in. However, I wanted a fridge, drawer and battery in the rear. Fortunately I also made some decisions of the how, during the 13 months I waited for delivery. The work done by the dealer was a part of that, but nothing that can't be done after driving away. I'll post some pics first then further posts to describe the fit out.

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The first pictures are of under hood dealer mods. Their brief was to install an IGN switched solenoid to power one Anderson on the rear bumper for caravan battery charging, a second for the caravan Anti Sway control and a third inside the rear 3rd row seat area. I should note I have an electro mechanical design background, so was able to spec the fit out. All 3 runs to be 8AWG wiring and as I was still undecided on future component specs, the 3 fuses under hood to be 40A for the caravan, 30A for the Antisway and 40A for the in rear Anderson. This meant a reasonable sized solenoid and at the time the nearest available was a 180A continuous. (Bigger than needed, but the wait for a slightly smaller one was lengthy.)

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The run into the rear boot space was 1.2 metres with Anderson. This allowed me plenty of cable to route after working on the false floor and install of other additions. (I have a CAD system and could design, draw and change before cutting material. The old saying, "Measure twice cut once", lol. These next pics are of the floor, drawer and fridge slide.

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As can be seen, installing a false floor loses height, but even when I install the 40lt Engel Combi, it barely encroaches on rear vision, given the spare wheel on the barn door. Items on top of drawer - Fire Extinguisher, Travel Buddy Oven (under a cover I had made) and a Toolbox. The Toolbox is screwed to the drawer via the Eye bolt screw channel and inside the toolbox which is locked.

The reason I went XTM - Most drawers are 900mm long, XTM is only 880. Due to the slope of the 2nd row seats, the higher something is, the further to the rear items need to go. XTM fits, 0ther 900mm drawers are getting too tight to the door.

I'll next show the electrics, then finally the drawing of the rear floor, how it's made and installed as it will need more words than so far shown.

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My over arching constraints on the electrics - All items, fridge, oven etc to be Anderson plugs. I don't trust cig plugs, the pop out and can't carry the same loads. A lithium battery as it's lighter, has more usable capacity and quicker to charge. Something to monitor the battery and a DC-DC charger. The Baintech Slimline has an inbuilt charger, which saved buying one and real estate.

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The power outputs are also able to be input to the Auxiliary battery (home made) as I will in the future, run a cable from it to outside for solar charging, probably a blanket. I can also use it to plug in 240VAC charging if needed.

The Victron Shunt via the App monitors loads, charging and state of charge.

The Blue plug is car + in form the start battery via the solenoid. Negative goes to the Shunt loads charge terminal. The Shunt BAT neg goes to the grey Anderson battery plug and it's positive to the home made distribution. The batteries negative blue/grey is common internal to the battery.

This made for an easy install as I made some Alum angle brackets, longer than the battery. The fix to the side of the drawer. Battery is virtually hidden and no visible DC-DC as it comes internal to the battery at 20A charge.

FYI I have a "Jiffy Box" from Home of 12V with Anderson input and 3 x cig socket outputs, plus USB adaptors. I can also use the Anderson outputs for my caravan portable pump. (I use this when filling from rainwater tanks or 20lt jerry, off grid as I'm past lifting 20lt above waist level.

[fj2prado Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close fj2prado]

Here's the drawing of the false floor, however, I'll write the explanation, material list etc offline and past to future posts in the next few days. In the meantime, I have a question for anyone reading these posts;

Today I bought a UHF in car to replace my handheld. I have a small bull bar Antenna (I have the Toyota Bar). There are 2 options to get through the firewall. 1. Down the passenger side and through the grommet, but this ingress is behind the glove box and I'm reluctant to disassemble the car too much. or, 2. From the passenger side antenna mount, across to the driver side (near radiator or behind engine) and through the grommet near the steering column. I'm not sure where this comes through re inside.

Opinions please? Which is better, easier (keep it clean lol)

Oops forgot the drawing

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To the false floor, I'll try to do this sequentially as I built it.
1. Lay the 3rd row seat down and make sure they are locked down. Then remove the 2 tie down points on the back of these seats, along with the other 2 at the back of the floor. A small flat blade screwdriver will lift the plastic flap to expose the screw, these are 6mm hex head and store them for refit into the future.

2. The primary mounting bars are as follows; Rear of 3rd row seat is 50 x 25 RHS - 2mm wall thickness and laid flat on the 500mm side. Rear of boot is 65 x 35 RHS - 2mm wall and mounted on 35mm edge. Bunnings do not stock, I got the RHS at a steel merchant cut to length. He stocked Galv or primed, I chose primed. This accommodates the slope of the rear seat and floor to level the false floor.

3. I measured out the centre distance of tie down bolts - NOTE - there is a slight difference front to back and these measurements may vary a little on your Prado to mine.

4. I drilled a 6.5mm hole on the bottom edge where it meets the floor and a 12mm hole at the top as I used socket head cap screws to fasten the RHS. From memory, 32 to 35mm long. (Bunnings) (Use a step drill to do the 12mm hole if using a hand drill at low speed)

5. I used a 6mm flat washer and 6mm spring washer under the Cap screw head. (Spring washer mating the screw) If you put them into the RHS before presenting them to the floor it is easier.

6. The important bit - You need to space the tie down point pocket to fill the gap. A friend of mine has a lathe and I made 4 spacers out of Nylon6, dimensions; 25mm O.D. 6.5mm hole to clear the screw and 22mm long. This allows a small gap to the seat and floor to protect the carpet.

Next post - The timber.

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I did not want to go as thick as 18mm and thought 12mm a little too thin. My local timber merchant stocked 15mm thick marine ply and sold me a half sheet (1220 x 1220) He also cut the main floor to the size on the above drawing as well as the filler piece at the rear. I made mine 65mm wide as when the carpet is wrapped around it fit perfectly.

Once cut, sand the edges and corners. I'll explain how it is seccurred before going on. I bought a rivnut kit (Bunnings) which were fitted to the top surface of the RHS (see drawing)

1. I marked out the timber for the fixing holes and placed in the Prado. Centre the timber to allow 5mm between the 2nd row seats and each side to wheel arch.

2. Drill one end hole 3mm dia on the front, through the timber and RHS and drop in a screw to loosely locate. Then on the diagonal opposite corner the same. This will position the timber to drill the remaining holes without movement.

3. Remove the timber and both RHS - Open the holes in the timber to 6.5mm and countersink the top of the hole. I used 6mm CSK x 25 screws, Philips or Alan key types are ok. However, I sourced Stainless screws.

4. Open out the holes in the RHS to suit the rivnut dia and install the rivnuts. Then do a trial fit of the floor.

Next post the lip at the rear and carpet.

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I glued and screwed the lip to the underside of the floor, no need to explain this lol. I then got my router with a 3mm rad to fillet the upper, lower and lip timber. This allows a better fold of the carpet. I won't detail this too much as it is not a difficult process. However, I used Marine carpet, spray adhesive and staples to secure.

I allowed approx 30mm folded under the floor for stapling. You'll need to cut corners etc and I also slotted out the underside fold to clear the RHS.

In fixing the fridge slide, and drawer I used T nuts from Bunnings, so the floor was put in and out of the car a few times. However with screws, washers and spring washers, I can nor remove the fridge slide and drawer without removing the floor.

Happy to answer anything not mentioned. Also adding a drawing of the carpet profile, sorry no dimensions, lol.

[404pug Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 404pug]

The rhs grommet brings the wire through up near the top of the accelerator pedal . LHSis similar. To access remove the kick plate and then the little quarter panel to see what is going on. No need to pull glove box out ( that is dead easy anyway). Each of the LHS and RHS grommets have a little tit on them on the engine side. This can be snipped off to pass wire through it. Fill any gaps with silicon.

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Thanks for the info. much appreciated 404

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Added to the above FYI - I tow a caravan 15' off road at approx 1850kg, Ball approx 175kg. Which means I need to monitor GVM. Here are the weights of the above additions.
False Floor = 15kg
XTM Drawer = 26kg (Empty)
XTM Fridge Slide = 14kg
Engel 40lt Combi = 24kg (Empty and not yet in the Prado)
Baintech 75AH Battery = 13kg
Drawer Content approx = 30 kg - - - - - For a total of 122kg

Since fitting the above, a Kaon rear shelf has been fitted and carries a small spade, axe and folding stool, for a total of approx 12kg incl the shelf.
For those in S.A. I bought the Prado new from Peter Kittle at Parafield. It is booked for its first service in a couple of months time, along with a wheel alignment (W/A) check.

Their W/A station has weighing transducers on each of the 4 wheel pads which I asked them to use for a weight report on delivery last year as I had an OEM bullbar, towbar amongst other items optioned. This gave me a start weight when driving off and is in my opinion more accurate than a public weighbridge designed to weigh trucks in the order of 20 tons or more.
I'll dig out the report and post.

[fj2prado Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close fj2prado]

The weight report is only for weight, but their report is 2 pages, covers suspension and brake efficiency which wasn't done. However, I got an each wheel weight, front and rear axle total and Drive off total weight. The Prado was new as delivered to me with the dealer accessories, no driver on board and with the 150lt fuel tanks, full. I'll install the Engel empty with all other items now installed except me, for an updated weight. (Fully fueled before the service)