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  • Another 33" topic

    I've read literally ALL topics that mentioned 33", 285/70r17 and 255/80r17 but haven't arrived at a conclusion yet. Giving my shot asking here again.

    I have a 2010 Prado 150 and am looking at changing my 265/70 BF KO (old version) into Flaken's 285/70. I have questions around what is really needed to not rub.

    Offset: Stock wheels are 25P and I've read that 15P are enough to not rub. I was thinking about putting some steelies, but they come in 0 offset. Would that push the tyre too far out? There are also 10P but they are 17x9 instead of 17x8. There are 15P 17x8 as well.

    My car has arb bullbar and a tough dog suspension, which was there since I bought so not sure what lift it has. Reading at their website supposedly it is 40mm, so a bit under 2", but when I compare to other Prados, I always think mine is sagged, lower than others.

    I never do heavy trails, rock crawling etc.. but do go to sand dunes which sometimes are quite bumpy, not sure if enough to be problematic though.

    I'd appreciate very much any guidance you can give in terms of wheel offset, if steelies will mess up my ride due to weight and if I can put the 285 at the rear door.. or even if I SHOULD. My current step tyre is a KO2 brand new on stock rims.

    Thanks so much,

  • #2
    Hi Martinez
    I have a question in regards to the 265/70r17 tyers you've been running.
    I have a 2018 gxl150 deisle prado and want to fit 265/70r17 bfg all terains. Now one of the tyre joints is telling me it will be a problem when towing as the car will loose a bit of power due to the bigger tyre size which may cause the car to want to change in and out of gear when towing have you had this problem or any others besides the norm ?
    I tow a 17 ft van.
    Can you shed any light ?


    • #3
      Originally posted by Martinez View Post
      I never do heavy trails, rock crawling etc.. but do go to sand dunes which sometimes are quite bumpy, not sure if enough to be problematic though.
      Then just stick with 265/65R17 or 265/70R17. This will maintain the power on sand. Changing to 285/70R17 will add weight and reduce power.
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      • #4
        Hi Trouchet,
        your tyre guy is correct. That bigger tyre size is larger diameter and it means that your vehicle would be effectively trying to run in a higher gear ratio hence the more frequent hunting of gear changes, not really beneficial for towing. I have a caravan, 2.5-2.6t depending on how much I load it.
        2019 Prado GXL 2.8L Diesel
        2003 Jimny too


        • #5
          My car is manual, so can't really comment on autos. I did tow a furniture trailer recently and it was horrible on ramps. Stopped on a red light on a slight slope and had to put in low range to get the car moving, then had to stop to switch back to high range.. not ideal!

          amts i want the bigger tyres primarily for looks (not gonna lie here) but also for extra clearance. I've been bogged before because of belly scrubbing on sand! I've learned my lesson and always put in low range now, do you still think the drop in power is that meaningful? Or might give me just a tad bit of extra clutch burning to get going and then that's it?

          Would appreciate any guidance on offset to get it without rubbing


          • #6
            The first thing I do before hitting sand is to drop the tyre pressure. I have not used low range in sand before. Flotation and momentum is key on sand. For clearance, you are better off with a lift.
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            • #7
              I was looking at putting the 285x70/17s on my 150 but it seems not many people have done it and people seem to always say stick with the 265x70s which in my opinion is too small.


              • #8
                Plenty of people have done it. People say to stick with 265/70s or std size cos the fuel economy and power both suffer with the 285s.

                Fwiw, I run 285/70/17 muddies on 17x8 +10 rims in the bush for the better clearance they offer. Don’t rub on anything. I Don’t care about fuel economy while 4wding and a tuned 1grfe helps with the power hit.

                on road I run 285/65/17 on a +18 rim in a HT so it keeps weight down a little compared to a LT 285/70..
                I also tow a 2.5ton large enclosed trailer which it handles fine.
                no question it would pull the trailer better and get better economy with std size tyres, but I like the look and width of the 285s so happy to run them.
                , and some attention to what gears get used can make a bigger difference to economy than the tyres do..


                • #9
                  amts agree that flotation, momentum are key. I already have a 2" lift (sagged at this point). The excuse I'm using is that the tyres will give me higher true clearance under the diffs. I know that rationally I should keep the 265/70r17, but this is a "toy" and I really want the bigger tyres

                  The tyre shop I went to today said they weren't sure if the steel wheels that they have (0 offset or +15 offset) would fit. They were afraid it would hit the break stuff on the inside. Any of you have put 285/70r17 with cheap steelies and could recommend which ones fit?

                  From what I've read, anything between 0 and 15 offset will not rub on the UCA, but towards 0 offset it might stick out of the guard, do you guys know which offset is the lowest I can go? From a law perspective I read it is +12 since the stock are +25.

                  I also would have to change the spare wheel on the back door, as it's currently on stock rims and 265/70. Will I have any issues fitting it (without the cover, as current also doesnt fit under cover) or the offset difference will make it ok?


                  • #10
                    Ok. I got the tyres. I can add pictures later if anyone is interested, but don't have them ready right now.
                    I got the Falken Wildpeak AT3W 285/70r17 on a 17x8 P10 wheel.
                    Everything I write below are my own observations and based on what happened in MY car (Prado 150 2010 with 40mm lift that's sagged). If your car, for whatever reason, has a different geometry, different lift, anything at all different, it might behave differently. I have no idea what I'm talking about, so just writing what I interpreted as what happened

                    • Anything bigger than P10 (pos 15, for instance) WILL hit the UCA. At full lock (not when you release the steering wheel and the tyre goes back a bit.. I mean when you are actively holding the wheel at the max possible turning angle) I couldn't tell if the tyre was or was not touching the UCA. I tried taking photos, filming it, sticking my head in the wheel well and I wasn't able to tell for SURE it wasn't touching. It's very, very, very, very close.
                    • I had to remove the mudflap in the front wheels and trim a very small triangle out of the internal plastic. This does not interfere with the car's bodywork whatsoever, it's just an internal plastic trim in the wheel well. I used an Ozito reciprocating saw with a fine metal blade just to not risk it getting caught up and breaking the plastic. I honestly think anything would work here, even some nail clippers ahah
                    • Without changing the car's geometry, you can not fit anything bigger than this tyre. Even 285/70r17s with a beefier thread than the AT3W might not fit. The tyre was about 3mm from some chassi metal in the back of the front wheel arch. So true 33", 285/75r17 or perhaps even the 255/80r17 that a lot of us has been searching for won't fit properly. My car currently has a sagged tough dog suspension (should be 40mm when new), so perhaps with a new, higher lift, it could accommodate the tyres a bit better? (This would be true only if a lift pushes the wheels a tad bit forward, which I have no clue if that actually happens)
                    • The tyre fit the back door spare tyre holder perfectly. This was one that I was very surprised. My original thinking was that going from a P25 to a P10 would give me +15mm of clearance from the door, then the tyre from 265 to 285 would lose me -10mm (each side), which would net a +5mm clearance to the barn door. What actually happened was that the tyre got a LOT closer to the door than before. With the old tyre I could fit a Kings jackaroo trash bag, I doubt I'll be able now... the rubber is touching the bodywork.
                    • I have an ARB bull bar, so not sure if anything would be needed in the front side of the front wheel arch.
                    • Anything smaller than a P10 (zero or negative offset) WILL stick out the mud guard. When I look directly down, I can see just a tad bit of rubber. I doubt any police would defect for this, but it is very flush. I'd probably risk a P6 or P5 to get some extra mm clearance from the UCA at full lock, but it'd for sure make the protruding out more noticeable. P10 is already illegal from what I read (min would be P12.5 based on GXL's stock P25).
                    Think this is it.
                    Cheers and good luck for anyone doing this as well.. was very close to not working


                    • #11
                      in for photos.....


                      • #12
                        I'm curious about the purpose for doing this, ground clearance, sand capability, etc? Did it make a positive difference?

                        2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits


                        • #13
                          Hey guys, for whatever reason the photos are not attaching properly. Something to do with the "live photos" that Pixel phote takes. I did a video as well on where it rubbed a bit and I had to cut, but that's too large to be attached.
                          Not sure I'm allowed to give personal info here, so if you want, send me a private message in my profile and i'll give you my whatsapp number to send the video etc.

                          krypto, the purpose was really just wanting to have a bigger tyre. Wasn't chasing performance or anything, just me wanting to finally do something to my car that I WANTED to do. My excuse, however, was increasing diff clearance for the sand dunes... My old tyre was a BFG KO (not KO2) and they were very old already. The new tyre size + new thread added some 30mm clearance.



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