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  • Thud noise at rear or car.

    Another annoying sound now I have fixed the last one....On some bumps....There is a clunk sound coming from the rear of the car it sounds as if a toolbox is in the back and when you hit a bump it lifts up into the air and then drops onto the rear floor. There is a tiny delay from when you actually hit the bump. I have tried a few things i thought I had found it when I lifted the cargo barrier and it came down and made the similar noise but stocked it up with rubber and is still happening. Anyone else had this please help me out. I have checked the tools and jack and they are tight. Ta Mass
    1999 Prado Snowy 265/75/16 Mickey T's ATZ 4RIB, Uniden 80 channel CB, 2" EFS with PolyAirs, PP Rear table, JVC Bluetooth deck.

  • #2
    Tow bar tongue!!!!
    97 VX Grande, with front & rear air lockers, ARB Sahara winch bar with tigers 11 winch, 2" EFS lift, 265/75/16 Achilles Desert hawk XMT, and more.


    [B]Bitumen - A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/B]

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    • #3
      I have had a few instances the first was the vertical rod to the upper trailing arm it snapped off at the weld. It was hard to find because when the car was stationery it would go back together as if nothing was wrong but would give a nice clunk or thud on bumps. The second was a loose bolt on the bottom of the panhard rod it would give a clunk on bumps like entering your driveway. I found that by just holding it and shaking it, so tightened it about half a turn didn't need much and all has been quiet since 12 months ago. So check all bars are solid and nuts and bolts are tight. Good luck in finding it.
      Ron,
      2001 3Lt Manual Diesel, Safari Snorkel, ARB Winch Bullbar, Hella Spotlights, 9000lb Warn Winch, Dual Battery, Couplertec Electronic Rust Prevention, Glind Hot Water Shower, ARB Front and Rear Air Lockers,Onboard Air Compressor, DP Chip, 40mm OME Lift, Steel Slider Side Steps, GME 3200 CB Radio, Milford Cargo Barrier, Extended Diff Breathers, Draw system and Fridge Slide, 40lt Engel Fridge, GPS with Wireless Reversing Camera, Rhino Roof Racks with Aluminium Tray, Awning and Drop down Table on Rear Door.

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      • #4
        I also had noises from a loose panhard rod, easy fix.
        glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

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        • #5
          Cheers for your ideas. I did manage to get a turn on the nut on the panhard rod, But noise is stil there. Had a pretty good look, shake tighten of everything under the rear starting to thing rear bumber maybe rear door... What a pain! Need to stick a little mate in the back and take it to a spot i know where it does the noise.
          1999 Prado Snowy 265/75/16 Mickey T's ATZ 4RIB, Uniden 80 channel CB, 2" EFS with PolyAirs, PP Rear table, JVC Bluetooth deck.

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          • #6
            Try the rear trailing arm bushes,they can ovalise the holes and cause a clunking sound.
            KZJ90 1-KZTE GL

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            • #7
              Could also be the rear door hinges. When I packed the bottom hinge with a couple of washers the thump stopped.
              Ken
              3.4 GXL man 1997 petrol / gas, BFG mud tyres 265 75 16, front and rear camera, Jaycar 6300Lm LED 6.5" D/L * 2, 15W LED reversing/work light, diff breathers, 42mm lift, Rear Anderson plug, Dash cam, and way too much recovery gear for one vehicle to carry around. No more HID headlamps. No more Narva D/L.

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              • #8
                As said it could be door hinges, and also check your bottle jack isn't moving around.
                95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]
                [/SIZE]

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                • #9
                  Just check your rear suspension bushes to eliminate those if any are worn. Upper & lower control arms as well as shock absorber bushes. I had worn bushes myself a while ago and the rubbing, tinging and donk like noises appeared very quickly and got quite loud within a matter of a week. Too much mud driving when I first bought the car which I avoid like the plague now if I have the option was the cause. It chewed out my bushes and allowed metal on metal contact of suspension linkages and joints. The slightest of bumps in the road and even turning soft corners at low speed can create audible noises. And like you mentioned, there was almost always a slight second delay from hitting the bump to the noise occurring. Just prey they're not shock absorber bushes as they'll be costly for the mechanic to remove and put back on due to the job being a pain on the backside ($400 approx for the pair fitted).
                  2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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                  • #10
                    As Crooza suggested check the Tow bar tongue!!!!
                    90 series, Air lockers , 2'' TOugh DOG Adjustable's (very happy so far), TJM Bar , 9500 lbs OX winch Plasma rope,TX3100 UHF radio, Mickey's MTZ , ARB Air compressor,

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Brett1979 View Post
                      Just check your rear suspension bushes to eliminate those if any are worn. Upper & lower control arms as well as shock absorber bushes. I had worn bushes myself a while ago and the rubbing, tinging and donk like noises appeared very quickly and got quite loud within a matter of a week. Too much mud driving when I first bought the car which I avoid like the plague now if I have the option was the cause. It chewed out my bushes and allowed metal on metal contact of suspension linkages and joints. The slightest of bumps in the road and even turning soft corners at low speed can create audible noises. And like you mentioned, there was almost always a slight second delay from hitting the bump to the noise occurring. Just prey they're not shock absorber bushes as they'll be costly for the mechanic to remove and put back on due to the job being a pain on the backside ($400 approx for the pair fitted).
                      As well as Brett's ideas, this is what I did:-

                      When I used to drive over bumps, the rear door would thump loudly. This was essentially the door lifting, then banging back down onto the door guide (The black metal bracket that narrows to the back). I tested this by putting several layers of tape onto the bottom of it (over the wear marks on it) and going over the bumps. The noise was still there, but more muffled.

                      So the other night I put some washers behind the bottom hinge. I then has to move the top hinge in the align the top of the door better as the seal wasn't good after the adjustment the washers made. By closing a piece of paper in the door then pulling it out, you can test how good the seal is. Once I adjusted it all in, the thump is all but gone. There is still the slightest noise, but very very miniscule. I also ran the hose over the rear door making sure I sprayed everywhere there might be a leak, but all good.

                      I'm very happy with how this turned out. The washers were about 1.5mm-2mm thick

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