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Transfer Case Leak

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  • #16
    Well it lasted about a thousand kilometres but it is leaking again.
    I figure that the shaft is too worn. Its done 550000k.
    I didnt want to get a second hand flange shaft as il just be asking to repeat this mess all over again.
    Toyota priced me up a new flange for $230 NZ and two weeks delivery ex japan.
    What im going to do is ive contacted an enginneering supply shop they will get me a wear sleeve/speedi sleeve and il fit that over this current flanges shaft where the seal runs.
    Im in no rush as its not leaking much but il repost in the next few weeks when i get it done, ive never done a speedisleeve before but it sounds relatively easy.

    So any one else doing this job be aware that the shaft might be too badly worn to keep a seal working.
    My shaft has wear marks along it indicating that the seal has being changed before and the new seal was put in a slightly different postion to ride on. As there is no counterbore where you sink the seal too that means that that can be done, however it seems there is only probably room on the shaft to do that originally and then once more. Since the seal has two slips, the main seal and the dust lip it wears quite a length of the shaft.
    Without the counterbore for seating it allows for different postioning of the seal but it also has the tradeoff that the seal can go in cocked (not square to housing).
    Having a new shaft speedisleeve on it means i will be able to put the seal in a lot better position to minimise the chance of it cocking.

    will update later


    • #17
      Excellent post, thanks Mikey.

      I'm going to add a few photos here of my recent experience so people can find the information in this one place...

      That troublesome nut was extremely difficult on mine too. My 600mm 1/2" breaker bar would just flex and anything I clamped onto the output flange to would just move (uncluding my solid steel vice bench). I tried using 6mm steel flat bar with bolt holes drilled in but amazingly it bent. Below is the second metal bracket I made which barely held up to the torque - it started bending near the bolt holes - but it did work with some care.

      I also had to change from the 600mm 1/2" break bar (seen in middle of next photo) to the 3/4" bar and winch extension bar (seen on top of next photo)... This required buying a 3/4" F to 1/2" M adapter but was well worth it as the leverage difference was amazing and instantly successful. When buying your 30mm socket don't listen to the sales guy who says "you'll only need a 1/2" drive" - not for this nut!!!

      Oh, and my purpose of removing this nut goes beyond the seal replacement, I'm looking inside... BTW, I removed the front output flange nut the exact same way, by fitting the steel bar to the FRONT output flange and using the 3/4" inch bar + extension. It was not possible to leave the steel bar on the REAR flange whilst leveraging on the FRONT flange even if the case is locked, because the whole case twists and moves around on the bench.

      glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios


      • #18
        And for those that are curious to see more of what's inside...

        In the above photo, starting from the left we can see:
        - part of the chain which drives the front output
        - a large round enclosed part which is the full time 4WD mechanism (a double pinion planetary gearset) and immediately to it's right we can see a gear, which is the "center differential lock sleeve", which is controlled by an arm, connected to the spring loaded slider above, which is controlled by the driver. The purpose of this section is to control open 4WD or locked 4WD modes.
        - finally on the left is a second arm which is controlling the high/low range clutch sleeve (which is the input side of the case).

        Here's a couple close ups of the chain (output) and the high/low range clutch sleeve (input):

        Finally, below is the input side of the transfer case, which connects to the high/low range clutch sleeve seen in the photo above. This is a single pinion planetary gearset which provides the high and low range drive. You can just make out part of the small pinion gears in this photo. The inner gears provide the high range (1:1) whilst the outer provides the low range.

        Last edited by glen_ep; 01-12-2014, 10:46 AM.
        glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios


        • #19
          Pages 6-15 of the following document describe how all these mechanisms work:

          glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios


          • #20
            Glen, im glad you got that nut off without needing to go to the shop again for an even bigger breaker bar.

            I thought id just update that a year on i havent got around to installing a speedisleeve, i think if i did get on to fitting it id probably just get a new small output shaft or one from a wreckers that i checked did not have excessive grooving from the seal (although thatd be quite some judgement call).
            Ive done thousands of kilometres and the leaking hasnt deteriorated, (i even think its slowed), im losing approximately a coke bottle cap full every 4000k so im just topping up as part of normal maintenance as i find that a lot more manageable than going through all this again, a catastrophic seal fail seems very unlikely after all this time. I had a diff seal go which poured oil out which kept me edgey over this one.
            The only thing i am considering is a new fill plug the aluminium one is rounding off which has required me to go from a 24m socket down to a 23 then a 22mm and even that dosent bang on and grip anymore so im im down to a plumbing wrench to loosen it every couple of months.
            Nice pixs by the way, glad to see why gear oil in there is so important


            • #21
              thanks for posting this with pic's, I have a feeling it will come in handy seeing as mine has just sprang the same leak


              • #22
                Originally posted by MikeyB View Post
                I thought id just pull the nut off totally now in-case the threadlocker stayed on it. Well heres the nut showing the bottom where i should of being heating.
                Interestingly i couldnt see any blue threadlocker in there, perhaps it disintegrates under that heat.

                I should of ordered a replacement as ive destroyed the keyway but i will see how it goes on reinstall. I live rurally so cant just go get one. I may be able to bash down a corner and add thread locker.
                Ive read that the torque for this should be 87foot pounds, please let me know if thats incorrect

                Did you verify the 87 foot pounds ?,


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