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  • Transfer Case Leak

    First off heres my Prado today.
    1999 KJZ95 diesel manual
    Click image for larger version

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    I had being noticing a wet patch on my transfer case bash plate on and off for a while, the bashplate had a part of it that would intermittently be wet when the rest of the under housing was dry. I did check my oil level, it was down a touch but that might of being from a bad refill job.

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    I thought it might be the front transfer case seal. Taking off the bash plate (12mm bolts) it was clearly gear oil . Looking at the fresh oil all over the dropped bash plate it was also leaking more than i expected.

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    The path of where it was coming from was clear, the front shaft seal

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    I had earlier decided to do it even though it was looking only minor, the thought of it abruptly failing totally and losing all the gear box oil or water grit getting in there and ruining the mating surfaces was enough to get me motivated to get into it
    Attached Files
    Last edited by MikeyB; 04-06-2014, 05:19 PM. Reason: Trying to Fix photos

  • #2
    I removed the UJ/prop shaft.
    14mm nuts, you dont need to hold the bolts as the bolts are splined into the flange.
    I levered it off with a small pinch bar.
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    Now you can see the nut, this is where the problems started. The key way, seen there a bit bashed is small and quite hard to access. I grinded down a screwdriver to access it.

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    Its now that things got harder than expected.
    Those with very sharp eyes may be able to see the touch of blue on the stake nut there. Yes, threadlocker. I tried undoing the nut with my 150ft pound ratchet torque wrench but it wouldnt budge. I wanted to change my approach on this as i didnt like the current plan of putting a screwdriver in the flange bolt hole to stop it from turning as all the force was going from the screwdriver on to the transfer case. I didnt like the thought of a crack there.. enough said.

    The stake nut has a torque value of around 90ft pounds so it should of come loose, my guess is this thread locker has being applied in levels more than a few drops.
    Last edited by MikeyB; 04-06-2014, 05:22 PM.

    Comment


    • #3
      So where im up to now is that i have welded a breaker bar where the 1/2 inch head begins, ive broken a few of those swivel pins in my time and ive also got a 20mm by 1m box steel pipe ($3) for it to slip inside of to use as a breaker bar.
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      An impact gun or a 3/4 drive would be ideal but im budget.

      I have also got this piece of steel (approximately 50cm long and 6mm depth) which has holes in it. It is part of an automatic door opener set up.
      Ive drilled another hole in it so it will fit over the uj bolt holes and as i turn the nut this bar should hit the main passenger side chassis rail and stop the flange from turning

      Click image for larger version

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      Last edited by MikeyB; 04-06-2014, 05:25 PM. Reason: sorting out photos

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      • #4
        My plan is also to heat the nut up. Threadlocker state that blue threadlocker is workable up to 150C. In difficult separation it can be heated to 250C and then parts separated while its hot.
        I have a $15 butane gas gun so i will use that for the task.

        There is also a small seal in the flange so if heating up this nut you should really replace that seal too.
        Part numbers to follow.
        Im getting this organised now so if anyone has any other further tips thatd be appreciated.
        I will drain the oil once im sure i can get this nut off

        Comment


        • #5
          Click image for larger version

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          Not sure how to post photos, they all seem to end up being displayed small....

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          • #6
            Ok this shade tree set up is already. I wish that i had a pit or a hoist but luckily i got a mechanic trolley off someone to lie on.
            Well this is what i found so far.
            The centre spacing between holes on the metal bar need to be 60mm for it to fit on the flange holes.
            Also I needed to grind out one side only slightly so that the socket can sit on the nut with the metal bar not getting in its way.
            As you can see ive used a deep socket, its the only 30mm i have. I cant see why a short depth one wouldnt work
            I also put in some bolts instead of using the UJ ones in case something happened to them
            Il clean up if i can get it lose, I dont want to do that unnecessarily.
            All this over just one nut.....
            Note where the metal bar will hit the chassis to stop the flange turning and also note the UJ which i have pushed off to the side

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            Last edited by MikeyB; 04-06-2014, 06:41 PM.

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            • #7
              The UJ prop is resting on the cross bar.
              ONE IMPORTANT NOTE: I am keeping the transmission in neutral. I dont want any force at all to be on the gearbox, it should all be stopped by the metal bar.

              Comment


              • #8
                Well im back from under there.
                I heated it for about thirty seconds and then jacked the car up to give better movement with breaker bar.
                Well something moved, but it wasnt the nut. Ridiculously tight.
                Click image for larger version

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                Note it has bent at the bolt not where i had grinded it down
                Ive beefed that metal bar up with one 10mm thick so will go out a nd try again, more heat first and for longer.

                Comment


                • #9
                  You are doing fine - we just click on the4m and they enlarge.

                  You could try to get focus sorted a bit though.
                  Originally posted by MikeyB View Post
                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]16082[/ATTACH]
                  Not sure how to post photos, they all seem to end up being displayed small....
                  Terry
                  Canberra
                  2008 Prado 120 D4D and 2010 Jayco Swan Outback

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks Terry, i see what you mean, its probably the age of that camera, not sure i can get glasses for it..
                    il try another camera.

                    Also before i continue i should make mention that anyone doing this should mark the UJ and flange so that you put it back with the bolts into the same hole, this helps with balancing apparently
                    Last edited by MikeyB; 04-06-2014, 11:32 AM. Reason: spelling

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                    • #11
                      Ok, well what i ended up doing next is correcting what i had done incorrectly to begin with. I had being heating the end of the nut. I should of being heating the nut at its base where it touches the flange. I did that and kept the flame under the nut then circled around it.

                      I think gear oil wont fire flash untill very hot but im not sure so i kept heating to a minimum just in case.
                      I had drilled the key way out on the test when I bent the bar so i was sure the key way wasnt sticking.

                      I heated it, jacked the Prado up again and then sat the heavier metal bar on a wood stand so i could work around it without holding it up.

                      As soon as i finished heating i put the socket on to the bolt and made sure it was flush, a stripping of the head here would be very costly.
                      I couldnt get my longer breaker bar on due to the ground in close proximity, i managed to get a small 40cm breaker bar tube on to the end and then lay on my back and pushed up with probably enough pressure to lift 70kg, making sure the socket was keeping flush.
                      I then felt it give......phewwww...It was a stubborn one alright.
                      The next duty is to thoroughly clean the area with degreaser, i couldnt do that before heating it up as degreaser burns.
                      I will soon pull off the flange and get to looking at the seal, not to mention draining the oil.
                      Il post an update later today.
                      Heres the set up, note i had to remove the sidestep, the bolts/nuts were not rusted luckily
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                      Time for a latish lunch and good thoughts of not having to take it to someone else that charges.
                      Last edited by MikeyB; 04-06-2014, 05:16 PM. Reason: Spelling

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                      • #12
                        I thought id just pull the nut off totally now in-case the threadlocker stayed on it. Well heres the nut showing the bottom where i should of being heating.
                        Interestingly i couldnt see any blue threadlocker in there, perhaps it disintegrates under that heat.
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                        I should of ordered a replacement as ive destroyed the keyway but i will see how it goes on reinstall. I live rurally so cant just go get one. I may be able to bash down a corner and add thread locker.
                        Ive read that the torque for this should be 87foot pounds, please let me know if thats incorrect

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Jobs done, ive taken it for a little drive and theres no sign of a leak. Il leave the bash plate off for a few days to periodically keep an eye on it.
                          I think i will revisit this job at a later date and replace the stake nut with a new one. Id like that keyway to be done properly.

                          The torque value seemed right as the keyway lined up where it had being.
                          Il write up next what i did

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Heres the seal. Sorry im not sure my photos have improved.
                            It was very dirty. I removed it with a screwdriver being careful not to hit the Transfer case rim where the seal sits. It came out very easily.
                            I didnt actually drain the oil first. the bearing inside the seal made the oil only dribble out. and it also helped flush out any contamination that may of dropped in during removal
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                            The flange came off very easily, you dont need a puller to get that off it just slid off. I placed a mark on the flange that was in line with the key way so i knew i would put it back as it was.

                            Here is the flange with the small seal in it. I replaced that seal. It came out easy too and the new one knocked in easily with a small socket
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                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The place where the seal rode was a bit worn but i gave it a polish and ive seen worse so hoping itl be ok.

                              The Prados done 560k, it looks as though someone may of being in here before as the seals didnt seem to be in the positions I thought they should of being in.

                              The little seal was sitting at the end of the flange which was a bit odd as there was no sign of wear where it had being riding and it should of in my opinion of being pushed back to the top of the splines where it would sit flat.

                              The big seal was also not in a very self explanatory location either.
                              It was sitting flush with the end of the Transfer Case. After removing the seal i could see that the proper seat for the seal was back about 3mm from the edge as it was slightly tapered at the beginning. There was no where engineered for it to get pushed too and stop. I just put a light coating of gasket goo on it and it pushed in quite easily, i didnt even need a socket to push it in. Hopefully the gasket goo helps hold it in.

                              I put some gear oil on the seal lips to help it ride the shaft easily.

                              The rest of the job was easy, just redoing what i had undone.
                              Tightening up the stake nut pulls the flange in very close so the gap you can see between Transfer Case and Flange looks large at the beginning, but it quickly reduces.
                              I put a few drops of locktite on the nut and put back on the UJ. Then topped up the gear oil

                              Il update later to let people know if i have done something wrong and have a leak, Or if all is well.
                              Its not a hard job if you can get yourself a solid enough breaker bar and a solid enough metal bar to stop the flange turning.
                              The only difficult bit i found was working out where to seat the seal back in the Transfer Case.


                              Hope it helps whoever is looking at doing this job.
                              If i hadnt of read this very useful thread below i never would of attempted it myself.
                              http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...r-Box-Oil-Leak
                              Last edited by MikeyB; 04-06-2014, 05:28 PM.

                              Comment

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