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  • Timing Belt - replace with age???

    I got my first timing belt done in 2010 when the car reached 150 K, as shown in the book.
    So she did the 150K in 9 years.( 2001 MY car ) ( also did the water pump and cam oil seals )

    NOW, 7 years later we have only done another 60K and are averaging around 8K /year, so it will take another
    11 years to reach the 300K at this rate.

    Another car I have with a timing belt has belt replacement on AGE or mileage and is fixed at 5 years without fail,
    however that is an interference engine of 4 cylinders.

    So the question is - when should I replace the timing belt?

    I'm thinking 8 years will be plenty long enough regardless of distance.

  • #2
    Originally posted by RobboMC View Post
    I got my first timing belt done in 2010 when the car reached 150 K, as shown in the book.
    So she did the 150K in 9 years.( 2001 MY car ) ( also did the water pump and cam oil seals )

    NOW, 7 years later we have only done another 60K and are averaging around 8K /year, so it will take another
    11 years to reach the 300K at this rate.

    Another car I have with a timing belt has belt replacement on AGE or mileage and is fixed at 5 years without fail,
    however that is an interference engine of 4 cylinders.

    So the question is - when should I replace the timing belt?

    I'm thinking 8 years will be plenty long enough regardless of distance.
    8 is the talk. Sounds good.

    Comment


    • #3
      I'd personally go by k's
      If its not running then its not wearing out
      As they are fully enclosed, i dont see perishing being a drama either

      I just clocked up 200k and wont be doing mine until 300k
      1999 Prado VX Grande White on Silver 3.4Ltr Auto

      Comment


      • #4
        Used to do Nissan stuff at 100,000k or 5 years. Have seen many go 10 years with low k's and they still looked perfect.
        For the small cost of belt/idler/tensioner and whatever, I always replaced earlier rather than have bent valves.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by carco View Post
          Used to do Nissan stuff at 100,000k or 5 years. Have seen many go 10 years with low k's and they still looked perfect.
          For the small cost of belt/idler/tensioner and whatever, I always replaced earlier rather than have bent valves.
          Small cost but a lot of work, which means either time or money to pay a mechanic.

          Do the 3.4 litre engines really bend valves??

          I read somewhere that the engines are quite 'under developed'; meaning low compression and so some sort of clearance between valves and pistons at TDC.

          My 'other car' is quite different. That engine is well known for bending valves and so the makers specify 5 years max belt life regardless of km travelled.

          Comment


          • #6
            The 5VZ-FE 3.4 is a non-interference design so no bent valves if the belt lets go. Worth changing if the inconvenience of the vehicle being immobilised is high though I guess. It's a substantial looking belt too, not like the watch straps you get on many modern cars.

            Comment


            • #7
              I have had timing belts well 10 years old no issues and they looked fine when finally removed. If Toyota haven't but a use by date on it personally I wouldn't worry about it.
              HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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              • #8
                I'd go by kilometres personally. It's a tough sturdy belt so you don't have to worry about it breaking down & decomposing over time. Time won't be against and cause it to develop cracks or become brittle if the required kilometres havn't been met. The only thing that would cut its life short before the recommended kilometre change interval are UV rays. Thank god it's in the shade huh.

                The only cars that require change intervals by kilometres or time are interference engines where if the belts breaks while driving, then your engine suffers severe damage, so they want you to be super super careful. A non interference engine such as yours does not suffer that problem. And it won't break prior to 150,000km so don't worry. It needs to be subjected to the 150,000km of heating up, cooling down and tension on it around the pulleys while driving those kilometres, and in saying that the belt would be able to do in excess of 250,000km. The 150,000km change interval is allowing for the worst of driving conditions during that time and also for people who may not get around to replacing it for about 100,000km after its due to be replaced.
                Brett1979
                Avid PP Poster!
                Last edited by Brett1979; 25-02-2017, 11:10 PM.
                2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

                Comment


                • #9
                  while I don't disagree with a lot of whats been said, it is rubber, not getting used very much so I think its just as bad not moving if its sitting in the one position for extended periods of time , if change it for peace of mind, I know its a non interference engine bit you don't want it breaking either

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I had mine replaced at 270,000 km 16 years old and they were cracked and needed urgent repair. I purchased the car at 200,000 km and thought they had been replaced (stupid thought) but it all ended well. If you are going on a substantial trip and they are getting old just do it, and the water pump at the same time (almost no labour cost). Ken.
                    Ken
                    3.4 GXL man 1997 petrol / gas, BFG mud tyres 265 75 16, front and rear camera, Jaycar 6300Lm LED 6.5" D/L * 2, 15W LED reversing/work light, diff breathers, 42mm lift, Rear Anderson plug, Dash cam, and way too much recovery gear for one vehicle to carry around. No more HID headlamps. No more Narva D/L.

                    Comment

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