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90 Series Prado - Loss of power under load.

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  • fr88
    replied
    Had a similar problem 1999 3.4 Snowy.....
    But only happened in mostly summer temperatures, on hot 40-degree days it even struggled on flat roads eventually.
    Replaced the coils, plugs, cleaned throttle body / maf sensors, replaced pcv valve, and other stuff I can't remember now.

    It got worse and worse over 2 years, and long story short clutch fan was the problem.
    It was slipping too much.
    After a pull-apart and refill of the original Toyota silicon oil it was all good.
    When it was bad It was pinging.

    Are yours pinging ?

    I remember it pinging going up hills and having no power,and later even on level road.
    The heater gauge is not reliable. 5 degrees over and it will ping and loose power (the computer automatically retard the timing). The gauge will sit on normal operating temp.
    was going to change the coolant temp sensor which is a PITA next,
    but no need for now.
    One radiator core as I suspected isn't blocked as checked by mechanic.

    Leave a comment:


  • sly283
    replied
    Hi Guys,
    Had a possibly unrelated issue revs at about 2800 like hitting a speed limitter. Apprentice mechanic found a dirty sensor near timing belt.(not on any diagram) Cleaned it. Car like new. Had been chasing that fault for months. Your issues sound a bit like the lead up to the missing.

    Leave a comment:

  • Jensen1510
    Lurker

  • Jensen1510
    replied
    I mean if your willing to that then sure. I guess there's no harm in trying.

    Leave a comment:

  • Brett1979
    Avid PP Poster!

  • Brett1979
    replied
    Ive still got the front half of my 90 on my property. Just haven’t gotten around to reducing it down in size & weight with a reciprocating saw for metal recycling at the tip. I’m not sure where the ECU is located. Is it behind & under the the glove box? It’s been exposed to the weather for a prolonged period, but if I can find it & the connectors have been kept free of moisture & in good condition I’d be happy to mail it to you at no charge to see if it helps.

    Leave a comment:

  • Jensen1510
    Lurker

  • Jensen1510
    replied
    Might me a stupid thought but could I find a written off 90 with lower K's and switch out the ecu and Ignition would that resolve the issue? Or would the ignition timing just kick up again?

    Leave a comment:

  • Brett1979
    Avid PP Poster!

  • Brett1979
    replied
    I’d put my house on it that you won’t be able to fix it. It’s almost as though if there’s an ignition timing fault recorded by the car’s computer no matter how minor after the 300,000km stage it corrupts the car’s computer to the point that things you’re replacing which should fix it don’t. New coils & spark plugs for example improve it a bit but won’t correct the problem... Nothing will & it’s so frustrating because many would’ve spent thousands trying to fix it. It’s definitely in a car manufacturer’s best interest to try and ensure your super reliable 22 plus year old car fails at some point. As a side note: When I pulled apart my 1998 V6 Prado that had 400,000km on it in 2020 to turn it into a sealed off-road trailer, I removed the fuel tanks & had a good look inside and looked over the in tank fuel filter. Both fuel tanks were clean as a whistle inside, perfect! No tiny little fragments of dirt at all. It was like the tanks were brand new inside they were that clean. The in tank filter was darkened slightly in colour due to age, but not dirty by any means. It’s a small fine mesh bag pretty much that can’t clog up. It’s designed to not allow solids like gravel for example to pass through it. It’ll do nothing to filter dirty fuel whatsoever (that’s the actual fuel filter’s job), so people replacing in tank fuel filters are completely wasting their time in doing so for any reason. I used unleaded & E10 fuel in my old Prado for 99.5% of fill ups. I experimented with 98 octane fuel a few times early on in the piece for zero noticeable benefit. Food for thought. The in tank filter is good for the lifetime of the car or unless the fuel pump assembly is replaced. No need to ever replace it. And unleaded & E10 fuels are very clean unlike dirt busting 98 octane fuel commercials led us to believe in the past. Fuel system cleaners are also a waste of money. Unleaded & E10 fuel won’t even make 22yr old 400,000km fuel tanks dirty at all. In fact it keeps them clean like new.
    Brett1979
    Avid PP Poster!
    Last edited by Brett1979; 01-11-2022, 08:16 PM.

    Leave a comment:

  • Jensen1510
    Lurker

  • Jensen1510
    replied
    I've got the same issue with my 1996 3.4l prado manual with 320000ks on the clock, I live up on mt tambo on the gc and the hill up the mountain climb just knocks me back to 40-50kph every time. I changed the fuel filter a few months ago and cleaned the MAF and throttle body. Although the car seemed to have a bit more kick the issue persisted. One thing I've noticed that make it worse is the engine being hot. If I do a long drive then stop for less than 30min and try to do a steep climb even in first with a small runup the car struggles to get up my drive however if its cold it climbs it with no hesitation. I've read that cracked or worn out vacuum hoses can cause issues like this in other cars and mine have seen better days so I will be replacing them soon. Something I would describe differently though is the loss of power, its almost like the cars being starved of something as it shudders and I can confirm that when its struggling if the throttle is let off to 1/4-1/2 it perks up a bit and can sometimes be pushed past 3000rpm. My cars currently running a kings tradie rack, arb steel bar, custom draw setup and sometimes a fridge. Although not overloaded it does have more weight than usual.

    Leave a comment:

  • Bushtreka
    Lurker

  • Bushtreka
    replied
    I agree with Lethal's diagnosis. First change the fuel filter. If it goes well for a while then starts again, check the tanks are clean and crap is not gradually blocking the filter.

    Bushtreka

    Leave a comment:


  • Brewnut
    replied
    I have a similar problem, I randomly seem to get a loss of engine power, generally when going up hills. This is all without towing load. The gearbox doesn’t want to change down and the engine really struggles to pull above 2500rpm.
    any further insight on this would be great.

    Leave a comment:

  • Scott . S
    Lurker

  • Scott . S
    replied
    I have same problem with my 95series prado 3.4l , power loss going up hills when towing camper any fixed soloutions

    Leave a comment:

  • Chris7600
    Lurker

  • Chris7600
    replied
    I didn't track down the cause for loss of power while towing with 2002 Prado 3.4. But I've noticed a significant and sustained improvement once I replaced coils (one was corroded) leads and plugs and gave MAF sensor a spray. I changed to single electrode iridium plugs (because I was sold on the sales pitch) but do not attribute any improvement there. Runs so smooth good acceleration.

    Leave a comment:

  • Pauls 95
    Junior Member

  • Pauls 95
    replied
    Mines the same, brilliant around town but out on the highway and hit a hill and it dies. Everything's been replaced. Last thing I need to check is fuel pressures, both tanks do it though so I doubt that's it.

    Leave a comment:

  • ozprado55
    Lurker

  • ozprado55
    replied
    Hi All

    Has anyone been able to track this problem down to a specific issue?

    I've got the same problem in a 99 Prado 210k on the clock.

    car almost dies to a crawl under load/ Towing or on a hill incline. straight surface no issue.

    Can the ERG Value be a culprit ?

    Leave a comment:

  • RedAdventureWagon
    Member

  • RedAdventureWagon
    replied
    I had the same issue especially whilst towing a 1 ton camper trailer with overdrive off. Heard this could be caused amongst other things by a dirty MAF sensor. I was sceptical but picked up a can. Tried it and seems to have made a fair improvement in my 381,000km 2000 VZJ95R. Improved low speed acceleration mainly.

    Also tried it in my 110,000 km 2010 atmo petrol car (Mitsubishi 4B11) but it seemed to make no noticable difference there.

    Leave a comment:

  • Irish Ian
    Lurker

  • Irish Ian
    replied
    I have the same issue but when I put it in cruise control the issue goes away and the car drops gears no problem going up hill to
    produce the right power for the hill

    Leave a comment:

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