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  • Torque Wrench

    Hi all,
    Came across this in my local supercheap yesterday.
    http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Pro...2-Drive/534370

    I bought one and seems to work ok (but who can really tell without testing it with a proper meter). I think for the simple jobs like tightening wheel nuts the 4% accuracy isn't an issue to me.

  • #2
    I've had a $60 one for a few years from Parts For Cars and its served me well. At least you'll be doing the wheel nuts up to spec now anyway. One thing that does help now is I know not to overtighten bolts. Most bolts I tighten up a little less than what the actual recommended torque setting is as sometimes the recommended I feel is a little too tight.

    Two and a half things to remember with torque wrenches are:
    1. Don't ever drop it or it can lose its calibration.
    2. Make sure when you're finished using it, back off the torque setting back to zero.
    3. Don't use that half inch torque wrench on a 10mm bolt like a rocker cover bolt that only has a 6nm or 8nm torque setting and expect it to accurately measure a light torque. Turn with a little too much enthusiasm and you'll snap the bolt.
    4. Be gentle with it. Don't drop it........

    Some stores that sell $119 ones for example just add rediculous Mark-up to them and price them at double what they should.
    Last edited by Brett1979; 24-08-2017, 10:46 PM.
    98 GXL 3.4L V6: TJM 2" lift, Airtec snorkel, TJM T15 steel bull bar, T-Max winch, 32in MT's & some other stuff, ODO = 379,000km.

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    • #3
      Cheers for the info, they seem to be a useful device as long as they are in good working order.
      One question though, in the manual it says to 'back off to minimum torque' for storage. Does that mean back it off to 42nm (minimum on gauge) or right off as far as it will screw? Im afraid to screw too far as it may go twang and springs and stuff spray everywhere.

      One slight odd thing about the wrench- The torque marks are in 12's. So unlike others where there is whole numbers on the shaft and 1-10 on the spinning part, the SCA one is in multiples of 12 on the handle and 1-12 on the spinning part.

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      • #4
        I work for a company that makes and sells torque wrenches. Feel free to send me a PM if anyone would like any info.

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        • #5
          PM is not available...

          Is there anywhere we can have our torque wrenches checked for a fair price?
          2008 D4D M6 GXL [MT ATZ-P3][Whitey's Ironman 45710FE/45682FE+KTFR101H/Dob487][extended Roadsafe links][Polyairs][DBA T3/T2][amts diffdrop & recovery points][Tin175's stone guards][Bushskins BashPlate][ARB Sahara][IPF 900s][Snorkel][WindCheetah][MaxTrax][IC-440][Parrot Asteroid][ARB Fridge][Lifestyle 2nd Row Fridge Mount][ARB Compressor][Thumper][SandGrabbers][Cargo Barrier][Tigerz Awning][MCC Rear Bar]

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          • #6
            Not too sure why that would be.

            We usually charge around $70 for a full calibration but it would be more feasible to try somewhere local.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by JimmyC View Post
              Cheers for the info, they seem to be a useful device as long as they are in good working order.
              One question though, in the manual it says to 'back off to minimum torque' for storage. Does that mean back it off to 42nm (minimum on gauge) or right off as far as it will screw? Im afraid to screw too far as it may go twang and springs and stuff spray everywhere. H

              One slight odd thing about the wrench- The torque marks are in 12's. So unlike others where there is whole numbers on the shaft and 1-10 on the spinning part, the SCA one is in multiples of 12 on the handle and 1-12 on the spinning part.
              Mine goes up in 10nm increments from 0 to 230. The 1 to 10 on the spinning handle are the single digit nm increments. So if you wind the handle up to the 50 line for example with the zero registering on the handle, then that is 50. If you turn the handle a little further to line up the No.6, then you're at 56 nm.

              To go up in 12's seems strange. Could've been made in the far eastern block near Russia somewhere maybe haha. I'd back it off to as far it will screw to which will be zero torque, or if you're not comfortable doing that due to the design, just back it off a little bit under the min 42nm. Mine does turn a few more turns below zero before it stops turning and I always do that before returning it to its case until next time.

              If it's going to be 10 minutes between uses while working on the car, back it off again before using again to make sure you're getting an accurate torque setting. If you leave it wound up for 10 minutes before using again the cheaper torque wrenches may give a slightly false reading when it goes "ping." I wouldn't trust it I that regard.
              Last edited by Brett1979; 26-08-2017, 09:25 PM.
              98 GXL 3.4L V6: TJM 2" lift, Airtec snorkel, TJM T15 steel bull bar, T-Max winch, 32in MT's & some other stuff, ODO = 379,000km.

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              • #8
                Yeah a bit odd for it to be in 12's but I suppose it will keep my maths skills in check. I'll keep them in mind regarding backing it off. Certainly not rebuilding an engine with it so not overly fussed about it doing the exact right number.
                Interestingly enough I watched a video on youtube last week comparing two wrenches (American brands). It put them on a calibrated gauge to test their accuracy and over each test the same wrench would vary in the torque that it would 'click' at even though the setting was the same.

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                • #9
                  If you want a "calibration free" torque wrench look for a Warren and Brown. Deflecting beam design, no threads, springs, etc to go out of calibration. Unless you beat it to death it is highly unlikely that a steel bar is going to go far out of calibration.
                  See: http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...enches.326059/
                  http://wbtools.com.au/product-catego...lecting-beams/

                  I have three ranging from 10inlb up to 220ftlb. Keep an eye out on ebuy, they come up occasionally, or even Crime Converters.
                  cheers
                  Steve

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by t303 View Post
                    If you want a "calibration free" torque wrench look for a Warren and Brown. Deflecting beam design, no threads, springs, etc to go out of calibration. Unless you beat it to death it is highly unlikely that a steel bar is going to go far out of calibration.
                    See: http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...enches.326059/
                    http://wbtools.com.au/product-catego...lecting-beams/

                    I have three ranging from 10inlb up to 220ftlb. Keep an eye out on ebuy, they come up occasionally, or even Crime Converters.
                    cheers
                    Steve
                    Aha, Warren and Brown is the torque wrench we have:





                    Bought secondhand some time ago in Brisbane. Part number 323500 - 20-200 ft/lb

                    So should be reasonably accurate, be good to find somewhere reasonable to have it checked.
                    Last edited by photoprado; 15-04-2018, 03:57 PM.
                    2008 D4D M6 GXL [MT ATZ-P3][Whitey's Ironman 45710FE/45682FE+KTFR101H/Dob487][extended Roadsafe links][Polyairs][DBA T3/T2][amts diffdrop & recovery points][Tin175's stone guards][Bushskins BashPlate][ARB Sahara][IPF 900s][Snorkel][WindCheetah][MaxTrax][IC-440][Parrot Asteroid][ARB Fridge][Lifestyle 2nd Row Fridge Mount][ARB Compressor][Thumper][SandGrabbers][Cargo Barrier][Tigerz Awning][MCC Rear Bar]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by JimmyC View Post
                      Yeah a bit odd for it to be in 12's but I suppose it will keep my maths skills in check.
                      Sounds like it is the limited edition Spinal Tap version, only 1 better.

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                      • #12
                        If anyone is after Warren and Brown wrenches, feel free to send me a PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by RBJET View Post
                          If anyone is after Warren and Brown wrenches, feel free to send me a PM.
                          As far as I can see, there's no way of sending you a PM on this forum...?
                          Rob.
                          '08 GXL V6 Manual with: O/L Bar, Cibie Oscars, Safari Snorkel, Revalved Ironman 45710 Struts & 45682 Shocks, Dobinsons & King springs, MickeyT STZs, Eaton E-locker on rear, ScanGaugeII, InaWise TPMS, and a Tvan controlled via TowPro.

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                          • #14
                            Mine has been repaired and calibrated by a W&B SA dealer: waltan.com.au
                            2008 D4D M6 GXL [MT ATZ-P3][Whitey's Ironman 45710FE/45682FE+KTFR101H/Dob487][extended Roadsafe links][Polyairs][DBA T3/T2][amts diffdrop & recovery points][Tin175's stone guards][Bushskins BashPlate][ARB Sahara][IPF 900s][Snorkel][WindCheetah][MaxTrax][IC-440][Parrot Asteroid][ARB Fridge][Lifestyle 2nd Row Fridge Mount][ARB Compressor][Thumper][SandGrabbers][Cargo Barrier][Tigerz Awning][MCC Rear Bar]

                            Comment

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