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Diesel Injector Servicing

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  • Diesel Injector Servicing

    Does anyone service their own injectors? Its time for mine to be serviced again, and I'm thinking about buying an injector tester and doing it myself. Just wondering if anyone else does this themselves?
    95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]

  • #2
    With all the can do bods on this forum, I'm really surprised that nobody has had a go at this themselves. I haven't looked into testing common rail injectors yet, but for the 1KZ-TE it seems that all that you need is a pop tester and shim kit, to adjust openning pressure and see what the spray pattern looks like. This definitely doesn't look like rocket science.

    I'n just looking at what pop tester to buy (and where to buy it). A lot of the "genuine Bosch" testers come from India and tend to have problems. There are a few types available from the UK, with the more affordable Sealey and Lazer brands coming in under $400 ex shipping costs, and then there are much more expensive ones available ($700+).

    I've found a chap on a Merc forum in the US that does a tester with shim kit for a decent price (US$300+shipping), but he can't tell me if it fits the Denso injectors (the Mercs have Bosch injectors) - this probably isn't a deal breaker because I'm pretty sure I could find the correct fittings locally and make the correct adapter pipe with a pipe flaring tool that I already have (for making brake pipes).

    If I buy all the kit (looking very likely) I might see if I can get my hands on a spare set of used injectors and then offer a testing / exchange service for a set of recon injectors to forum members.
    95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]


    • #3
      not a good idea to play with it by oneself...


      • #4
        Originally posted by gantulga View Post
        not a good idea to play with it by oneself...
        Only if you get caught in the act

        Care to elaborate?
        95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]


        • #5
          Originally posted by fridayman View Post
          Only if you get caught in the act

          Care to elaborate?
          Oh i need a good "come back"

          well i learned that the hard way... aint gonna mess up with it again


          • #6
            I am not sure why you would bother, the earlier series injectors are quite reasonably priced on an exchange basis unless this option isn't available anymore.
            My 150 build -


            • #7
              You may be able to measure the crack pressure but how will you measure the flow rates also spray patterns isnt something you can just eyeball on a diesel injector and hope its right
              2012 Graphite GXL T/D Auto, with all the normal crap you fit


              • #8
                It looks like I can do it for roughly the same price as I would be charged to have it done. However, next time I could do it for half the cost (I would only have the cost of new nozzles and washers). But this isn't just about saving money, its also about learning a new trick

                I wasn't aware that the flow rates are tested on the 1KZ-TE injectors as part of the recon - I'll look into this some more. The spray patterns aren't actually that hard to check - it actually is more or less a case of just eyeballing it. Well not exactly, but it is done by eye. On used nozzles they can be cleaned up to a degree to improve spray pattern (and pop pressure also affects spray pattern), but I'm fitting new nozzles so presumably I only really need to set the openning pressures.

                Check out THIS link.
                95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]


                • #9
                  My first go at doing this myself got brought to a disappointing halt when the injector tester that I bought didn't work. The new one arrived this week, so yesterday I cracked on with this.

                  Getting the injectors out is easy enough:
                  • air intake pipe off
                  • intercooler off
                  • glow plug power rail off
                  • undo injector fuel unions
                  • remove return rail locking nuts
                  • remove return rail and washers
                  • Now remove the injectors - note that this requires a 19mm deep socket, don't use a 17mm as you might end up cracking the injector open and losing injector bits into the engine bay.
                  • All of the tips had a small amount of carbon build up on them.
                  • I could probably have cleaned and re-used my tips as they were in pretty good condition, however I had already ordered new Denso tips as mine are coming up to 100k km now. They come with a new crush washer each (I didn't know and had ordered a separate set of these as well).
                  • The new tips come in little plastic containers filled with some type of oil. I had some trouble setting the first injector pressure until I rinsed it with diesel.
                  • Getting the first injector open was surprisingly difficult with a pair of spanners (19mm & 17mm). I had to resort to clamping the injector in the vice and using a rattle gun to open it. I made quite a big mistake here. It was the first time that I was using a new rattle gun and it took 3 or 4 goes before I realised that I was fastening and not loosening the injector. Doh! This could have been very bad as these only require about 40/ of torque. Fortunately I got away without doing damage.
                  • Here is the injector pulled apart - the only bit not in the pic is the shim that was still stuck in the top part (I blew them out with the compressor).
                  • I had bought replacement internals (springs, shims, spacers). A few articles that I read up suggested that you shouldn't touch the internal polished surfaces with your fingers. These shim/spacers even came in a kind of wax coating, presumably to avoid them getting marked in any way.
                  95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]


                  • #10
                    As I mentioned before the first tester I ordered was a piece of junk, however the new one from Germany is a beautiful piece of equipment. Very well made.

                    Before I started pulling the injectors apart I actually tested them all first.

                    1 2 3 4
                    Pressure 2100 Note 2180 2100
                    Pattern Ok Note Ok Ok
                    Drip test Ok Small leak- no drop Small leak- no drop Ok
                    Shudder Yes Yes Yes Yes
                    Spring length 23.75 23.2 23.2 23.08
                    Shim 1.88 1.41 1.43 1.5
                    Notes - 1 Slight spray with poor pattern at around 2000.
                    Notes - 2 First pump popped at 1900, then seemed to get blocked as pressure over 3000. Next few pumps very poor pattern. Then blockage seemed to clear and settled at 2100 with good pattern.
                    Notes - 3 Very good atomisation
                    Notes - 4 First few goes went over 2100, upto 2800 - something sticking? Weird shim setup, 3x shims (1.3+0.1+0.1).
                    95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]


                    • #11
                      After finding different crack pressures from 2 different sources (and there are different pressures for new and used injectors), I decided to aim for 2200psi, being roughly 100psi higher than they were before because of the new springs - the target pressures for new vs old injectors is roughly 100psi higher. This also seemed to be within the acceptable range of both workshop manuals. I should point out that this is not an exact science as the pop tester measures in 100 psi increments, but the injectors do tend to open at exactly the same pressure each time (when they are working properly), so you can do it a few times until you think you've got it.To increase the pressure of an injector 0.05mm equals roughly 100psi - so I upped the shim size on 3 of the 4 injectors (as one was already at 2180 psi). When I say 2180.. it was just under the 2200 mark.

                      What I found was that when you have the pressure right and the nozzle is clean, the injector would shudder like it is supposed to. The shudder is a pretty good indication that you are in the right ball park.

                      The spray patterns and atomisation were also a little tricky with this tester as the fuel being sprayed back into the reservoir would splash and make it difficult to see. I've seen a pro do it into a bucket which was a lot easier to see. I actually started looking at the splash pattern to help determine if the spray pattern was good. Another clue is the diesel "smoke" from the injector atomising correctly.
                      I had read that you need a clean work area and it turned out that this is very important. I had to rebuild 3 of them several times as tiny bits must have gotten in somehow - the spray patterns and crack pressures would be all over the place. I'm talking very small bits as I would rinse all parts in clean diesel and inspect them before assembly and each time I could have sworn they were clean...

                      These are my after notes:
                      1 2 3 4
                      Pressure 2180 2200 2180 2150
                      Pattern Perfect Perfect Perfect Perfect
                      Drip test Ok Ok Ok Ok
                      Shudder Yes Yes Yes Yes
                      Spring length 23.75 23.2 23.2 23.19
                      Shim 1.94 1.45 1.43 1.45
                      Notes - 1 Reused existing longer spring as already using second thickest shim (new springs 0.5mm shorter). Must have got dirt in the new nozzle. Took a few goes to get it right.
                      Notes - 2 Had to wash the new tip in diesel. Had to open and clean it several times before spray pattern and shudder correct.
                      Notes - 3 Only changed spring for new one and re-used shim.
                      Notes - 4 Tricky to get to 2200 - next shim size up increased opening pressure to 2300.
                      Putting it all back together late on Saturday afternoon, I managed to drop the #4 return rail locking nut down into the dark recesses of the engine bay - it was one of those moments where time slows down and your senses are super sharp, and you think you can see where it is falling with your ears... except I didn't. And then rain stopped play. The next morning armed with an inspection camera I was over, under, through the wheel well... and finally found the nut on a casting ledge under the starter motor. Little $^"~*!!!

                      With everything back together except for the #1 fuel union left open (to bleed the air out of the fuel rail), I cranked it on the starter a few times until it made a splutter. Then nipped up the open union and it fired right up. I can't tell you the relief! You just never know when you do something for the first time whether you did it all right, or left something out.

                      The result... the engine is so much smoother and quieter. For a couple of km's I thought something was wrong, then I realised that it was just quieter and holding onto gears for longer up big hills. Did I mention that it is a LOT smoother and quieter..? I'm curious to see what it will do to my fuel consumption now.
                      95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]


                      • #12
                        I would have said unless your going to do it as a business, why bother? Every 150k just pay the expert $300 or so.

                        BUT, you are the expert, nice work, looks like you had fun. You know the job is done right!


                        • #13
                          Good work!!


                          • #14
                            Good read Fridayman, I'm keen to give my injectors an overhaul too. I have a couple of questions - I pm'd you the other day..
                            Does anyone else have a contact for Fridayman? Doesn't look like he's been on here since last year sometime.


                            • #15
                              Used to use reco Injectors for 1kz, these days we only use new ones, $800.00. Can't best all new parts.

                              With the 1kd-ftv only brand new genuine toyota/denso injectors.


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