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150 Tow Points... are they ok to use?

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  • #16
    No sorry... the TJM T13 Bar has two rated recovery points built in...

    Originally posted by Hutch View Post

    Leon r u talking about factory points?
    Cheers, Leon
    There's no such thing as a wrong turn... it's just the scenic route!
    1998 VX Grande 95... gone, 2008 GXL 120... almost gone... 2017 GXL 150... blank canvas
    Optix Photographix

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    • #17
      I have these points on a new 2018 GLX, are they legit to snatch from?

      Comment


      • #18
        Noooo.... they are tie down points for transportation.
        Cheers, Leon
        There's no such thing as a wrong turn... it's just the scenic route!
        1998 VX Grande 95... gone, 2008 GXL 120... almost gone... 2017 GXL 150... blank canvas
        Optix Photographix

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Vanders View Post
          I have these points on a new 2018 GLX, are they legit to snatch from?
          Having proper recovery points is always the safe smart way to go. However, If you were in an emergency and used an equaliser strap I'd say you could snatch from them, they are not rated however.. In saying that, they are welded both sides and in theory every inch of weld is meant to be ok for one tonne of force. You do the math. There's likely around 7 inches of weld on each side..
          They would be more suitable for slow recovery, EG Winch. I've winched off mine heaps of tmes and no issues. We use dampers etc incase as well. I've also seen them snatched off, and successfully. But you need to be aware of consequences of any snatch recovery.. (Saying that, I watched a rated recovery point get torn out of a vehicle a few weeks ago in sand)... Damper on the strap stopped it going anywhere, but still did some damage when the bolts ripped thru the frame.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Vanders View Post
            I have these points on a new 2018 GLX, are they legit to snatch from?
            They should be the same as in this video. As explained in it, they are more than strong enough, probably more than bolt-on rated accessory points. He also explains that they are not tie-down-only points purely for transportation: such points would be much less overbuilt than these tow points.
            https://youtu.be/Im8SaqQVaRA

            BUT if you require an engineer-certified rating for them, you are out of luck.

            cheers

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            • #21
              Has been discussed before. See these threads. Many people, me included, are a little wary of Anthony four by 4 diesel's advice.

              https://www.pradopoint.com.au/forum/...ecovery-points

              https://www.pradopoint.com.au/forum/...-are-the-facts

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              • #22
                Originally posted by gunda View Post
                Has been discussed before. See these threads. Many people, me included, are a little wary of Anthony four by 4 diesel's advice.

                https://www.pradopoint.com.au/forum/...ecovery-points

                https://www.pradopoint.com.au/forum/...-are-the-facts
                The tow points are at least as good as any bolt on plates. The plates may be rated but the bolt on points are not, it's been discussed at length. I've included engineering calculations.

                The plates do look nice though
                [B]Steve[/B]

                2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

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                • #23
                  I trust the welded both sides tow points from the factory well before the bolt-on units. (Sure the bolt-on units have a nice WLL stamp on them) but the chassis is not rated to them. I've seen quite a few of the bolted points ripped out before. Factory with a bridle is the best way IMO. And yep, Don't trust too much the snake oil injector salesman says in his videos.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Piggy View Post
                    I trust the welded both sides tow points from the factory well before the bolt-on units. (Sure the bolt-on units have a nice WLL stamp on them) but the chassis is not rated to them. I've seen quite a few of the bolted points ripped out before. Factory with a bridle is the best way IMO. And yep, Don't trust too much the snake oil injector salesman says in his videos.
                    100%, as a mechanical engineer, the lack of science and bs that gets thrown around on the bolt on points is just plane stupid... but it goes round and round.

                    The two key factors are that the chassis points used to bolt on the points are not rated for that purpose, I've never seen anything that says otherwise. And secondly a bolted connection must be a friction joint and most of the bolt on jobs rely on high tensile bolts in shear to take the load, which is really poor design.
                    [B]Steve[/B]

                    2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

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                    • #25
                      Does anyone have any actual recovery experience using either the tow points or recovery add-ons?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by gunda View Post
                        Does anyone have any actual recovery experience using either the tow points or recovery add-ons?
                        Have been using the tow points for 11 years without a problem. The key to any recovery is to distribute the load across two points and not create too big a shock load
                        [B]Steve[/B]

                        2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by gunda View Post
                          Does anyone have any actual recovery experience using either the tow points or recovery add-ons?
                          This is my previous post in another thread. Yes if have recovered plenty of times off both style of points. Neither are great for a really hard recovery. See below


                          Daniel150
                          Member
                          • Join Date: Nov 2021
                          • Posts: 137

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                          #10
                          20-05-2022, 09:34 PM
                          The factory points have nothing wrong with them. The steel size and weld is fine, especially when used with a bridle.
                          It’s one thing to look at the engineering of the loops and welds, but its the style and size of the cross member they are attached to that’s the problem. The steel is fairly thin, drops vertically from the chassis about 6 inches and has minimal welding onto the chassis rails.

                          The position of these points at the bottom of the vertical piece of steel provides substantial leverage on the chassis welds.

                          This cross member is only there to support the radiator etc, NOT a decent tug during a recovery.
                          I have recovered of these points in previous prados and have seen some weld cracking. None of these recoveries where particularly harsh.
                          The only advantage of the roadsafe/ arb style points is that they support the cross member by completing the triangle back to the chassis. On a sideways pull, I don’t believe they are a great option, but you shouldn’t be snatching sideways.
                          An arb or dobinsons bullbar actually has a brace that goes back on the angle and stiffens the front points up as well.
                          For the $1000 it costs for an arb set, I bought a winch. For $140 I got a set of roadsafe ones and use a bridle and only moderate straight pulls from the front.

                          I reality I don’t think there is anywhere on the front of a prado that I’d be going crazy on with a snatch strap, but using an aftermarket set that braces back to the chassis rails makes me feel a lot better.
                          In the end if you are interested, strip the front end down and look at it for yourself.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Daniel150 View Post
                            I reality I don’t think there is anywhere on the front of a prado that I’d be going crazy on with a snatch strap, but using an aftermarket set that braces back to the chassis rails makes me feel a lot better.
                            Were I to fit some after-market recovery points, which is possible, this is why I'd fit Kaon ones, which seem to be having two bob each way by attaching to everything. Krypto says he's used the tow points multiple times without problem. I suspect that a skilled and experienced 4WDer could. I don't put myself in that category, and in a recovery situation you're often being assisted by someone whose skills are unknown. The Kaon attach-to-everything thing recovery points are a form of insurance. Yes, they're expensive. Insurance tends to be.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by gunda View Post

                              Were I to fit some after-market recovery points, which is possible, this is why I'd fit Kaon ones, which seem to be having two bob each way by attaching to everything. Krypto says he's used the tow points multiple times without problem. I suspect that a skilled and experienced 4WDer could. I don't put myself in that category, and in a recovery situation you're often being assisted by someone whose skills are unknown. The Kaon attach-to-everything thing recovery points are a form of insurance. Yes, they're expensive. Insurance tends to be.
                              They do seem to be a good option in terms of attachment method. I wouldn't class myself as skilled otherwise I wouldn't be getting stuck
                              [B]Steve[/B]

                              2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

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