Moving the radiator to mount recovery points

[mojo Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close mojo]

Hi guys,

I've been looking at this site for a while (got some great information on it!), and just bought some of the outback ideas recovery points some of you guys are using.

I'm trying to install them, and can't work out which bolts it is I need to undo to move the radiator so I can mount the recovery points. Can anyone give me instructions on this, or even better pics?

Cheers

mojo

[Schaffer Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Schaffer]

You can install without taking off the radiator if you turn the bolts around but if you follow the design then you need to completely remove the bottom two bolts, and lossen to the point of dread the top top so you get enough swing.

You will need to drill the holes out as they are too small but I think, from memory, it was only the last section of the hole that wasn't cut right. You can get the guards off to give enough clearance OR you can buy a cheap 90degree angle drill bit to allow you to drill the holes out, but others who have done this have suggested to drill slowly otherwise you destroy the gearing on the 90degree drill bit.

All up two bolts out completely and two very very loose. Can be done by yourself without assistance.

[mojo Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close mojo]

Thanks Schaffer, I can see 4 bolts that I assume are the ones I need to remove/loosen, but I'm not 100% sure I've got the right ones as the lower bolts, particularly on the right, are going to be hard to get to. I'll post a pic, that might help. Back soon ...

[Schaffer Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Schaffer]

Thanks Schaffer, I can see 4 bolts that I assume are the ones I need to remove/loosen, but I'm not 100% sure I've got the right ones as the lower bolts, particularly on the right, are going to be hard to get to. I'll post a pic, that might help. Back soon ...

All four bolts are accessible from the front. The bottom two are set right back and you will need an extension socket to get into these. I know I swore quite a few times so it was good thing I did this by myself and not with the kids. Once you work out the bolts, the rest is easy.

[mojo Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close mojo]

Ahhh, I think I see thew problem, I've been looking at removing the nut from the engine bay, rather than the removing the bolts from the front .. ops:



I'll go and bang my head with a hammer a few times then try again ...

Thanks again Schaffer.

[dustie Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close dustie]

You got it mojo

[Schaffer Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Schaffer]

Now I think you've got it right. A little difficult to get into but shouldn't been too much of a drama with a descent socket set.

[mojo Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close mojo]

Well I managed to move the radiator out of the way (thanks again for the help guys). When drilling out the upper hole, did you guys drill from the outside (i.e. towards the radiator), or from the radiator side? Drilling from the outside seems to be the logical way to do it, but the right angle chuck I've got doesn't want to fit into the space between the chassis and the guard - did those of you who used a right angle chuck have to also remove the guard first?

Cheers

Sean

[damonat Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close damonat]

Well I managed to move the radiator out of the way (thanks again for the help guys). When drilling out the upper hole, did you guys drill from the outside (i.e. towards the radiator), or from the radiator side? Drilling from the outside seems to be the logical way to do it, but the right angle chuck I've got doesn't want to fit into the space between the chassis and the guard - did those of you who used a right angle chuck have to also remove the guard first?

Cheers

Sean

just used my cordless drill, and done. no right angle adapter.
i drill from outside to inside.
i put a peice of aluminium between the hole and the radiator,
just to make sure i didn't touch the radiator side tanks

[Guest Close Guest]

I am sure there is a picture guide how to on this subject already??? Or am I wrong?

[Chippy Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chippy]

Spot on TP

http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php ... ts&start=0

Cheers
Chippy

[mumstruk Member Find all posts View Profile Close mumstruk]

Recovery points

Remove all four rad bolts, push it out of the way and drill from inside to out. Took me all of about 30 minutes to fit my recovery hooks. Ground some of the head of the 8.8 bolts to give clearance for radiator, painted the bare metal with gal and then matt black. Looks factory.

Forget about using right angle drills and removing the inner guard. There is more than enough room to drill from inside to out. The metal is pretty thin here and you only need to enlarge the inside holes. I used a piece of styrofoam to hold the rad out of the way whilst drilling.

[Jaans Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Jaans]

Re: Moving the radiator to mount recovery points

Hi Guys

Newbie here... just got my rig and picked up a set of Outback Idea's recovery points from ARB Coopers last Friday. Self installed the Rhino Roof Rack "Aero" bars... that was fun (even if it was basic).

I'm planning to do the surgury and prosthetic implant of the recovery points next week. OK, so I'm no doctor nor am I a regular auto mech, but I'm not afraid to learn and do things myself.

So here's a few basic questions about drilling of the second hole a bit bigger one: What should I do to the newly exposed metal to avoid rust/corrosion?
Please assume I'm completely ignorant in this regard. Some say paint on something called "gal"? Others just put on some paint. What specific products are we talking here (imagine a near empty home garage)? Presumably I can get it from RepCo/Supercheap? :?

Do I paint the surface before putting the bolt and nut on? What about the thread? Do I need something called "loctite"?
Edit: What size drill bit do I need? 12mm / 13.8mm / Other? Is bit for drilling steel suitable?

Recommendations. I do want to do a proper job and make sure it lasts a long time.

Jaans
Ps: Thanks for all the great info on this forum from it's willing members!

[Schaffer Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Schaffer]

Re: Moving the radiator to mount recovery points

Jaans, Galv is short for a Glavanising paint, typically called Cold Gav. This is a paint that has a high level of Zinc (I think) that protects the underlying metal from corrosion. I would suggest using some black spray that you can pick up from Repco\Supercheap\Sprint\Autobarn\Bunnings\etc... If you tell them it's to be applied direct to bare metal (after all you need to recall you have just drilled this hole) then they should be able to point you in the right direction. The paint you use will have info about drying times. I would recommend two coats to make sure that your chassis stays in good nick. Give the paint some time to dry. If you use a spray and it's a good sunny day then maybe half an hour. If you don't then when you push the bolt through some of the paint can be push back as either liquid paint or semi dried.

From memory (did this 18 months ago now) you need to just remove the last portion of the hole and it requires a 13mm drill bit. Some have drilled this using a 90 degree bit on a slow speed. I managed to move the radiator enough that I could get to the hole from the radiator side.

You don't need loctite. That is a glue and is not needed here. If you have the genuine bolts with the points then, again from memory, one is fitted with a spring washer and the other with a nylec (nylon insert) nut. These should hold pretty well. Just make sure when tightening that you do not over tighten as you will be crushing the chassis rails

[mumstruk Member Find all posts View Profile Close mumstruk]

Re: Moving the radiator to mount recovery points

Jaans, the paint I used is called Cold Gal other types are known as Zinc It. It is used on bare metal and is rich in Zinc. This gives it a galvanising type of protection. Paint over it when it is dry with some Underbody Black, a satin black is much the same. Do this before the bolts go in.
I cant remember what size drill bit I used, I just sized it to the bolts.Get high speed steel drill bits, these are all that you will need. If the bolts come with Nyloc nuts ( the nut is slightly dome shaped on one side and has a plastic inset in it) you will not neet loctite. If they dont, use the correct sized spring washers and loctite.Get some extra decent washers as well.

In my previous post I removed all four radiator bolts. If you do it this way the radiator wont fall out or down. You need to hold thr radiator out of the way so i jammed a piecw of foam between the rad and the support at the side. Be very careful with the drill. The radiator cores are paper thin and will puncture very easily, very embarrasing as well.

Other than that this is a fairly simple job but is also one of the most satisfying. You can see the hooks quite easily and they look the part. Shows that you are serious about your fourby. I havent had to use mine (luckily) in the heat of battle. Prados dont usually need towing. Snigged a few Patrols but thats a different story.