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Removing the Rear Door Trim on a 150's to run wires to Rear Floodlight

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  • Removing the Rear Door Trim on a 150's to run wires to Rear Floodlight

    Guys....

    Wanting to run some wires to a Rear Floodlight I've installed. Just wondering if anyone has some useful tips to remove the inside rear door trimming + getting the wires from inside the car to inside the rear door?

    cheers.....

    Rob
    [I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
    [I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
    [I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
    [B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green] [/COLOR][/I][/B]
    [B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]

  • #2
    Hi Rob

    I ran the wires through the rubber tube connecting the door to the car, you need to take the trim from around the window off first and then undo the screws inside the two lockers in the trim.

    Richo.
    [B]Former [/B]Party Leader, [B]Now[/B] SDO SEQLD GTG 2015 PFA (Pradopoint Fairy Advisor)
    [B]Bitumen - A Blatant Waste of Taxpayers Money[/B]

    Comment


    • #3
      Rob, the rear door trim is mostly all push-clipped on, other than a couple of screws on lower section (handle etc).

      Pop off the top piece first, then sides, then bottom. There is a good chance a clip or 2 will fall inside the door, make sure you put these back in securely before replacing panels.

      I did as Richo, run the wire through the rubber tube to inside behind the 220v power socket (pop this panel off for access)
      Dan
      2012 GXL T/D Auto in white....ARB Bullbar, Bash plates, Alloy Roofrack, Awning and IPFs/ Airtec Snorkel/ GME UHF/ MSA Seatcovers/Outlaw Exhaust/ MT P3s/ OME lift/ Kaymar Rear Bar/ Drifta drawers/ ARB 60L fridge/ Powerful 4x4 Rock Rails/ Magnum 12K winch/ Sandgrabbas

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by DSS150 View Post
        Rob, the rear door trim is mostly all push-clipped on, other than a couple of screws on lower section (handle etc).

        Pop off the top piece first, then sides, then bottom. There is a good chance a clip or 2 will fall inside the door, make sure you put these back in securely before replacing panels.

        I did as Richo, run the wire through the rubber tube to inside behind the 220v power socket (pop this panel off for access)
        This is what I did as well. On mine the door trim needed quite a bit of force to remove.
        2010 GX Turbo Diesel

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by DSS150 View Post
          Rob, the rear door trim is mostly all push-clipped on, other than a couple of screws on lower section (handle etc).

          Pop off the top piece first, then sides, then bottom. There is a good chance a clip or 2 will fall inside the door, make sure you put these back in securely before replacing panels.

          I did as Richo, run the wire through the rubber tube to inside behind the 220v power socket (pop this panel off for access)
          Thanks Dan/Richo, etc....

          This Side Panel where the 220 outlet is..... is this easy to get off.. ie: just pull off ??


          I've finally got around to installing AMTS spare tyre spacer and light pole:

          [I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
          [I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
          [I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
          [B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green] [/COLOR][/I][/B]
          [B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]

          Comment


          • #6
            I removed the back door panel without touching the bits around the window. Just remove all the obvious screws and gently but firmly pull from the bottom right corner. Just need to unclip the main panel from the upper window surround bits to remove. I had to remove mine due to a brainless person at the dealer trying to screw the number plate on with a massive self tapper.
            Would also like some tips on removing the side panel as I have to install some 12V outlets in the small storage section above the jack.

            Comment


            • #7
              You can gently prise the 220v panel out with a flat screwdriver, it is clipped in also.
              Dan
              2012 GXL T/D Auto in white....ARB Bullbar, Bash plates, Alloy Roofrack, Awning and IPFs/ Airtec Snorkel/ GME UHF/ MSA Seatcovers/Outlaw Exhaust/ MT P3s/ OME lift/ Kaymar Rear Bar/ Drifta drawers/ ARB 60L fridge/ Powerful 4x4 Rock Rails/ Magnum 12K winch/ Sandgrabbas

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by bretthar View Post
                Would also like some tips on removing the side panel as I have to install some 12V outlets in the small storage section above the jack.
                I know this is old but I figure someone else might find it later (like I just have!).

                I've just followed the instructions from the Toyota to remove the panel completely - see http://www.toyota-tech.eu/Aim/Aim.aspx and look for the installation manual for the Towing hitch wiring. It has a simple step-by-step guide to taking that panel off (since that's where the trailer wiring goes).

                You may not need to remove it completely - which is a lot of work - some people seem to have worked through the jack hole.

                Comment

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