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  • Buying a Prado - what to look out for

    90 series
    Check Dashboard to see if you can grab the outer ends of the dash and move it up and down. http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post506226

    KZJ95

    Crack in the LHF upper inner guard area towards the rear http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post506224

    120 series
    Common things to look out for
    Cracked dashboard
    Rust under rear (cargo) door seal
    Sovereign bullbar mount CSE ("recall") – this campaign has now ended late 2013
    Inner guard cracking
    Crack on rear (cargo) door near hinges
    Tailshaft clunk
    Evaporator leaking
    Cracked fuel filler hose
    Floppy or stiff auto gear shift lever

    1KZ-TE
    Cracked heads

    1KD-FTV (Nov 2006 onwards)
    Injector issues
    Injector seats
    Injectors out of range
    Clogged oil sump pickup

    1GR-FE
    Engine mounts

    Grande
    Rust at the front on sunroof
    Tear/leaks on rear airbags due to age

    150 series
    Common things to look out for
    Inner guard cracking (pre-facelift models)
    Tailshaft clunk

    1KD-FTV
    Injector issues
    Injector seats
    Injectors out of range
    Clogged oil sump pickup
    amts
    Ninja Poster.
    Last edited by amts; 20-03-2017, 12:32 PM.

  • #2
    120 Series: 1KD-FTV (Nov 2006 onwards) + Grande

    Deformed nut used to hold the steering wheel. Toyota have refused to deal with this issue stating " This is not a factory issue or genuine part" They say the nut used to hold the steering wheel is the sole responsibility of the owner.

    They also take no responsibility for the passenger seat warmer which again is an after market addition. There is a High Court case challenging Toyota's position on the said seat warmer, noting they may have a responsibility to reasonably expect the additional of said item and as such a responsibility to place warning stickers clearly visible to the driver to remove the seat warmer as it is a risk.

    Personally, I would like to see a recall on the seat warmer.........

    mlc (in the dog house when the seat warmer sees this.......)
    [B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
    [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]

    Comment


    • #3
      Andrew I think you should include water pumps in the 1KD motors, I know of several failing on or around warranty plus 1km.

      And did anyone mention diffs?
      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the information amts, will certainly look out for these issues as I look for my new ride

        Comment


        • #5
          Andrew - good thread
          I would add for the 1KZ that the glow plugs have been changed every 100,000km.
          Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

          Comment


          • #6
            well all I can say is that I have never had a problem with the motor never changed the injectors or the glow plugs in 20o plus ks and I might all say that it is running most mods on the motor including a dp chip which is running on setting 9 and a remote boost controller wound up to 13psi and im still getting 10 lts per 100 and I drive it like I stole it flat out everywhere. I cannot complain bout the 120 series at all (apart from a fuel tank issue) but I love the little girl never let down not once just keep up the oil changes and an eye on exh gas and turbo pressure. would rather have one of these motors than a common rail on
            "wounds heal but scars last for ever"

            Comment


            • #7
              Andrew
              Where would be the best place/s to get my injectors checked (I hear NOT Toyota).

              MY CAR:
              Grande - made December 2008 1st registered March 2009 - 160K on the dial and been a shopping trolley all its life.
              Never been off the bitumen done some longish trips and very clean car
              AND I will be checking:
              "1KD-FTV (Nov 2006 onwards)
              Injector issues
              Injector seats
              Injectors out of range
              Clogged oil sump pickup"


              I also heard somewhere on the forum that the 2008 plus D4D's do not have the same "Injector problem" as earlier 120's??
              Thanks
              Larry D
              YMUS
              Originally posted by amts View Post
              90 series

              120 series
              Common things to look out for
              Cracked dashboard
              Rust under rear (cargo) door seal
              Sovereign bullbar mount recall – this campaign has now ended late 2013
              Inner guard cracking
              Crack on rear (cargo) door near hinges
              Tailshaft clunk

              1KZ-TE
              Cracked heads

              1KD-FTV (Nov 2006 onwards)
              Injector issues
              Injector seats
              Injectors out of range
              Clogged oil sump pickup

              1GR-FE
              Engine mounts

              Grande
              Rust at the front on sunroof
              Tear/leaks on rear airbags due to age

              150 series
              Common things to look out for
              Inner guard cracking
              Tailshaft clunk

              1KD-FTV
              Injector issues
              Injector seats
              Injectors out of range
              Clogged oil sump pickup
              "[B]The PEARL[/B]" is our early 2009 120 "Pearl White"Grande . [B]The build consists of[/B]: ARB deluxe Bar, Winch is a Domin8tor, Driving lights are 3X Korr LED's. Roof Rack is a RR 42107B. - Rear Draws are from OffRoad Systems 3 draw plus fridge slide, table and 40ltr S.S. tank. See our build site : [URL]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?32140-Start-of-quot-The-Pearl-quot-transformation-April-2014[/URL]
              [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by YMUS View Post
                Andrew
                Where would be the best place/s to get my injectors checked (I hear NOT Toyota).

                MY CAR:
                Grande - made December 2008 1st registered March 2009 - 160K on the dial and been a shopping trolley all its life.
                Never been off the bitumen done some longish trips and very clean car
                AND I will be checking:
                "1KD-FTV (Nov 2006 onwards)
                Injector issues
                Injector seats
                Injectors out of range
                Clogged oil sump pickup"


                I also heard somewhere on the forum that the 2008 plus D4D's do not have the same "Injector problem" as earlier 120's??
                Thanks
                Larry D
                YMUS

                Regarding buying a second hand Prado (im looking at 2012 D4D) I have 3 questions:

                1/ Whats the best way to tell if the injectors are OK without computer? Noisy at cold start is hard to pick when you have nothing to reference it to. Most Diesels are noisy at start up so how much is acceptable? Are there any other tell tale signs?

                2/ Have the injector issues been fixed on the 150 series Prados? Has the injectors been fixed and has the injector related dirty oil pick up issue been fixed?

                3/ Does the Prado have a DPF and if so what are the related issues? Cost, servicing any other issues? Are you guys blocking off your EGR valves with success? I see you guys use Provent filters with good success too.

                Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by mattstruck View Post
                  Regarding buying a second hand Prado (im looking at 2012 D4D) I have 3 questions:

                  1/ Whats the best way to tell if the injectors are OK without computer? Noisy at cold start is hard to pick when you have nothing to reference it to. Most Diesels are noisy at start up so how much is acceptable? Are there any other tell tale signs?

                  2/ Have the injector issues been fixed on the 150 series Prados? Has the injectors been fixed and has the injector related dirty oil pick up issue been fixed?
                  If your buying a 2012, unless its high mileage and lacks service records, you should be able to get another - EDIT - 3 years factory warranty up to 150,000km. $1800 or so? I think cost for the dealer is $1340 for extra 3 years 150,000km maximum distance.

                  By 2012 there were several changes. 2012 vehicles I think are fine, from what a servicing poster reported.

                  Evidently fuel filters are a key benefit. Also the quality of the diesel. Cetain level diesel fuel required is 50; most diesels are not that level. It was said that BP's premium diesel is that level???



                  ########## was my reference. This thread covered a fair bit:

                  http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...dealer+auction
                  MelbournePark
                  Member
                  Last edited by MelbournePark; 20-08-2014, 11:31 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I have had my 2014 GXL for about four months. Before you buy it, take it for a test run. Mine has a Drone in it at about 80km/hr at about 1600rpm - 2000rpm, it is pretty bad, and Toyota have admitted there is a problem with all the GXL diesel. I had Fair Trading drive it and said it was not acceptable, he also drove two others, and said they all have the similar problem - these are new one's. So take it for a good drive before you buy as some sound worse than others. I believe one of the other members had to try and fix it himself, Toyota seem to have washed their hands of it. Mine was $63,000 with a lot of extras, good luck with the car hunting.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Turbo View Post
                      I have had my 2014 GXL for about four months. Before you buy it, take it for a test run. Mine has a Drone in it at about 80km/hr at about 1600rpm - 2000rpm, it is pretty bad, and Toyota have admitted there is a problem with all the GXL diesel. I had Fair Trading drive it and said it was not acceptable, he also drove two others, and said they all have the similar problem - these are new one's. So take it for a good drive before you buy as some sound worse than others. I believe one of the other members had to try and fix it himself, Toyota seem to have washed their hands of it. Mine was $63,000 with a lot of extras, good luck with the car hunting.
                      No drone in mine, whisper quiet for all 15k kms since new. There is a baffle in there to stop it now. Has been around for years but not all of them have it for some reason.
                      [CENTER][B]-=2014 GXL D4D Auto Graphite, Firestone Airbags, ARB/Optima D34 Dual Battery, ARB UVP, TJM Airtech Snorkel[/B][B]=-[/B]
                      [/CENTER]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by amts View Post
                        90 series

                        120 series
                        Common things to look out for
                        Cracked dashboard
                        Rust under rear (cargo) door seal
                        Sovereign bullbar mount recall – this campaign has now ended late 2013
                        Inner guard cracking
                        Crack on rear (cargo) door near hinges
                        Tailshaft clunk

                        1KZ-TE
                        Cracked heads

                        1KD-FTV (Nov 2006 onwards)
                        Injector issues
                        Injector seats
                        Injectors out of range
                        Clogged oil sump pickup

                        1GR-FE
                        Engine mounts

                        Grande
                        Rust at the front on sunroof
                        Tear/leaks on rear airbags due to age

                        150 series
                        Common things to look out for
                        Inner guard cracking
                        Tailshaft clunk

                        1KD-FTV
                        Injector issues
                        Injector seats
                        Injectors out of range
                        Clogged oil sump pickup
                        just a question, is there nothing under the 90 series heading on purpose?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hi AMTS, i have some to add for the things to look out for on the 90 Series when buying used.
                          I found these crack in the LHF upper inner guard area towards the rear on my KZJ95R a few weeks ago.
                          I posted it on a 90 Series owners facebook group and found 2 other Diesel's with the same cracks in the same place as mine.
                          Haven't seen any Petrol's affected as yet, which is odd, as the Diesel has no Battery on this side of the engine bay like the Petrol's do.

                          See attached pics.

                          Regards, Jason.

                          Click image for larger version

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                          wholesalesuspension
                          Advanced Member
                          Last edited by wholesalesuspension; 01-04-2015, 02:32 PM. Reason: Schpellling

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            90 Series things to look out for.
                            Check Dashboard to see if you can grab the outer ends of the dash and move it up and down.
                            If so, it has sheared the locating dowels under the windscreen (very well noted common concern) & will require replacement of locating pins or other bracing to be applied.
                            There are several repair threads available for this on Pradopoint.

                            Regards, Jason.
                            wholesalesuspension
                            Advanced Member
                            Last edited by wholesalesuspension; 01-04-2015, 02:31 PM. Reason: schpelllling again,,,d'oh

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              90 Series things to look out for.

                              Suspension:
                              -As these are now getting on in the years, we are seeing more failures of rear upper trailing arms. Keep an eye on them. We have developed a larger stronger replacement arm for these specifically to rectify this. Steer clear of eBay replacement arms that look like the genuine ones, as they won't last 6 months in 4wd'ing situations. I have a box of snapped eBay ones at work.

                              -Bushings in front ends have a life of around 200,000kms to 230,000kms. If they haven't been done already, budget in at some stage for front lower & upper control arm bushes. Expect around 6-7hrs labour charge for these as they are a bugger to do.

                              -Panhard Rod bushes: Common to wear out around the 180-200k mark. They get a longitudinal wobble in the car when they are gone, a really weird feeling. Even a quality replacement part is not a dear fix for this one.

                              Steering:
                              -Front Lower ball joint wear with age. Do not Skimp on cheaper parts. These are under huge stress loads & checpies are lucky ot last 12-18 months. A genuine part at approx $330.00ea or a good quality aftermarket part like a 555 Ball Joint are all i would put in my own car.

                              - Steering rack bushes. Very common wear item on these, with the bushes wearing and the rack shifting side to side.
                              A good Superpro or equivalent set are a good cheap fix for them.

                              - Inner & Outer tie rod ends. Have started to see a few higher km vehicles wearing these out lately. Again, buy the best you can afford. 555 make the best outer tie rod ends for them and Roadsafe do a good quality inner rack end for them. 99% of the ebay junk is just that on these vehicles, with very poor life expectancy.

                              -Steering Racks... (i have had mine rebuilt 3 times by a moron, and it still knocks) Steer clear of cheap Chinese eBay new units & either Reco your own, or find a reputable Steering Specialist for a new one.

                              -Rear lower trailing arm bushes. Mine are still going strong at 270,000kms, so just keep an eye on them and replace as required.

                              Hope this helps everyone a little.

                              Kind Regards, Jason.

                              Comment

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