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How to remove bash plates from ARB bullbar without dislocating a shoulder?

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  • How to remove bash plates from ARB bullbar without dislocating a shoulder?

    Afternoon all,

    Hoping someone can give me some advice or point me in the right direction on how to remove the bashplates (side wings?) from the bullbar. I can see that the plates are attached by bolts as shown below. But I can't get them undone, they just spin, so I am guessing that they have nuts on the other side, but can't work out how to get them undone without potentially dislocating something or taking contortion lessons. (photo below for reference of what I am referring to)



    I'm guessing the whole things not that hard im probably just missing something simple (really hope I am missing something simple and this job doesnt infact involve an angle grinder)

    Anyway hope someone can point me in the right direction.
    Attached Files
    azprado
    Junior Member
    Last edited by azprado; 24-09-2012, 05:12 PM.

  • #2
    With the bonnet open you should be able to reach the top of the bolts through the gap between the bar and the radiator. If you're still having trouble reaching both at the same time try placing a ring spanner over the the nuts on top and as it makes contact with the inside of the bar you will be able to undo the bolts from underneath.

    Hope this makes sense and is of some use.
    Justin
    2005 120 Series 3.0 TD Auto, OME suspension, Sovereign bullbar, IPF 900XS driving lights, Projecta dual battery system, ARB roof rack, Bridgestone D694 tyres, GME UHF, Custom rear drawer with ARB fridge slide and Waeco 60lt fridge.

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    • #3
      Stupid ARB design using captive nuts so when conan the fitter mounts your bullbar he over torques them hence the nut spins in the captive holder. You'll need 2 people, one with the spanner on the nut underneath and one reaching into the inside top of the bar to grab the nut with multi-grips. Once you get them off replace them with M8 (I think) flange nuts and bolts and never have the problem again.
      [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

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      • #4
        Originally posted by D4D View Post
        Once you get them off replace them with M8 (I think) flange nuts and bolts and never have the problem again.
        I can get at mine ok on my own but a pain in the ass. What flange nuts and bolts do you mean, D4D?
        [SIZE=1]Cheers Jim.
        [/SIZE][COLOR=#0000cd]
        2009 120 D4D VX auto, pearl white with [COLOR=#0000cd]matching ARB deluxe bar,[/COLOR] 2" lift with [COLOR=#0000cd]OME springs & Nitro shocks,[/COLOR] 9000lb Warn winch, BFG KO A/Ts, Alloy Rhino roof basket, Safari snorkel, 2 x Optima D27F batteries, Voltage booster from Leigh, Jawa [SIZE=1]off-road camper trailer.[/SIZE][/COLOR]

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        • #5
          Basically you get them finger tight and the flange means you don't need a spanner on both sides. They're also are less inclined to rattle loose.
          http://www.fastenermart.com/html/flange-nuts.html
          [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

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          • #6
            Use a 1/2 inch (13mm) open-ended spanner for the nuts. To access the nuts, jack up the front and remove the wheel, pull back on the plastic inner fender cover, reach into the bar and place the spanner on the nut. Use a little rattle gun or socket to work the bolts from outside the bar. Leave the lower bolt where the bottom of the wing attached near the lower chassis until last - this will hold the wing in place while you unbolt the four nuts. Simple.
            Dave
            Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
            Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

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            • #7
              Thanks for all the suggestions guys will give it a go Sunday hangover permitting post grand final

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Bushbasher View Post
                Use a 1/2 inch (13mm) open-ended spanner for the nuts. To access the nuts, jack up the front and remove the wheel, pull back on the plastic inner fender cover, reach into the bar and place the spanner on the nut. Use a little rattle gun or socket to work the bolts from outside the bar. Leave the lower bolt where the bottom of the wing attached near the lower chassis until last - this will hold the wing in place while you unbolt the four nuts. Simple.
                It's too hard to do that on the drivers side.
                Winston.

                White 2009 120 Series D4D GXL manual.

                Comment

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