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  • Full width mudflaps

    Hey all,
    How would one create a full width mudflap for a 120series? I have noticed a stack of stone chips all over the rear door since we have done some dirt road towing. I read plenty of examples of people smashing their rear window when towing, so they use window protectors, and then other people putting stone deflectors/gards on their camper, but I want to address the problem at the source, the tyres.

    I have been trying to come up with a way that will also be removable without too much trouble, so it doesn't add to the wind resistance when on the blacktop.

    Any ideas?
    Check out our blog documenting our around Australia adventure: [URL="http://fealyfamily.wordpress.com/"]http://fealyfamily.wordpress.com/[/URL] 07 GXL D4D, Bilstein shocks, Dobinson coils, Red Arc isolator, 105Ah Allrounder dual battery, heavy duty outlet in rear for the CF80 Waeco. Tigerz11 full size rack and awning. GME TX 3100 UHF, Alpine CDE135bt head unit with Steering Wheel controller. Hilux washer jets. Zac Brown Band sticker

  • #2
    i would think that putting a mudflap the whole way across reduces airflow past the rear diff thus increasing diff temps, perhaps just 2 oversize mudflaps are a better option? and potentially easier to mount?
    have you looked into the rocktamer product at all? you could fabricate something like that up relatively easy
    or the stone stomper idea is pretty easy to replicate too.

    Scott.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by ScoticusMaximus View Post
      i would think that putting a mudflap the whole way across reduces airflow past the rear diff thus increasing diff temps, perhaps just 2 oversize mudflaps are a better option? and potentially easier to mount?
      have you looked into the rocktamer product at all? you could fabricate something like that up relatively easy
      or the stone stomper idea is pretty easy to replicate too.

      Scott.
      Scott mentioned, Rock Tamer and Stone Stomper as a solution to the problem of stone chips from stones and rocks.

      The following websites show some pictures of both products, which may help.

      Rock Tamer:
      http://rvtowingsolutions.com.au/

      Stone Stomper:
      http://www.stonestomper.com.au/

      Cheers and safe travels.
      K&K
      LC150 GXL D4D Auto Glacier White, factory tow bar, Prodigy Brake Controller, Anderson Plug, HR WDH, window tint, head light & bonnet protector, Icom UHF, Gravel Rush GR150 mud flaps, Polyairs, McHitch Automatic Caravan Coupling

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm not sure if many people are aware, but here in Vic at least the muspats/flapsbare supposed to be no more than 300mm from the road.
        I know that this is not how most of ours are and I don't see anyone extending them like you do on a GQ patrol.
        They type of vehicle and look (garden variety) we will likely pass by that check.
        However I'm not sure if this contributes to this.

        Comment


        • #5
          I would like to see some pics of Rock Tamers fitted to a 120 and know of any problems experienced in doing so.
          [B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
          [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]

          Comment


          • #6
            Stone stomper is the only way to go... I love mine stops mud getting on front of camper too...
            2005 Black gxl 1kz, Steinbauer chip, ome lift, arb delux bar, Lightforce genisis 210's, 30inch led light, tigerz roof rack, GME 3540 uhf, genuine towbar, custom spare wheel spacer, ors draws, drop slide, waeco, dual batteries, twin locked, st maxx tyres, winch.

            Soon to come-35's and longer shocks.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by MidLifeCrisis View Post
              I would like to see some pics of Rock Tamers fitted to a 120 and know of any problems experienced in doing so.
              I can do that for you MLC as I have a set for use when towing the camper. The stones still pepper the rear bumper and theres a reasonable gap between the flaps in the middle where the hitch goes. Will chuck some shots on when I get back to Kal this weekend.
              Dave
              Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
              Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Bushbasher View Post
                I can do that for you MLC as I have a set for use when towing the camper. The stones still pepper the rear bumper and theres a reasonable gap between the flaps in the middle where the hitch goes. Will chuck some shots on when I get back to Kal this weekend.
                Thanks mate. When your ready, I know your busy up in that happening town of Kal
                [B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
                [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sorry all, busy week. I had a look at the rock tamers/stone stomper products, but thought the rear bumper would get hammered. I saw a 120 not so long ago that seemed to have attached an aluminium runner, bit like sail track across the width, literally just behind the original flaps. He then had a single length of rubber attached to it. It looked (I was driving so trying not to crash) like it had three points fastened to maybe the chassis rails?

                  I like this set up because it was in front of the rear bumper, could be remove and reverted back to stock, and was full width.

                  Anyone seen/done anything similar?
                  Check out our blog documenting our around Australia adventure: [URL="http://fealyfamily.wordpress.com/"]http://fealyfamily.wordpress.com/[/URL] 07 GXL D4D, Bilstein shocks, Dobinson coils, Red Arc isolator, 105Ah Allrounder dual battery, heavy duty outlet in rear for the CF80 Waeco. Tigerz11 full size rack and awning. GME TX 3100 UHF, Alpine CDE135bt head unit with Steering Wheel controller. Hilux washer jets. Zac Brown Band sticker

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Not full width but I made removable large stone flaps for my 120. They only take about 5 seconds to remove, slightly longer to fit but still less than a minute (just lining up the pin takes a few seconds longer). They do a pretty good job and are right behind the original mudflats.

                    Have a look at post #39 in my rig build, follow the link in my signature.

                    Cheers Andrew
                    [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

                    [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

                    [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


                    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

                    Comment


                    • #11




                      I have since moved the flaps closer towards the centre of the car and flush with the support arms. I have also removed the logos. Stones still pepper the rear bar. I was going to fashion a flap behind the fuel tank to cover the gap in the middle. You need a long tow receiver to fit the set up.
                      Dave
                      Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
                      Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hey Fellas,
                        I've fitted very effective mudflaps to the back of my 120. If you stick your head under the bum of your Prado you will see two under body mounts/ bolts with nuts and large washers on them, I utilised these mounting points to hang my mudflaps. Get a length of flat-bar, 30mmX3mm thick that is as long as the width of your Prado. Buy some conveyor rubber, make sure it is internally stitched for strength. A handful of D shackles and a few links of chain. A couple of L shaped brackets (bunnings sell them ready to go, they are about 50mmx50mm and 3mm thick steel brackets with a hole drilled in both flat faces of the bracket-perfect!) Loosen the nut on the underbody mount and fit the L bracket and re-install the nuts, nice and tight. Hang a D shackle from the downward pointing hole on the bracket. Hold the flat bar up underneath the car and judge how much chain(or more D shackles if you dont have a welder) you will need to hang the flat bar from the brackets. Remember the exhaust will be in the way too so just make your chain long enough to clear it. Angle both chains inward toward the middle of the car as this will stop the whole set up from swaying side to side. Once you are happy with how you think it will mount, either weld a shackle on the flat bar or drill a hole in the flatbar for the pin on the shacle to go through so the flat bar can be attached and hang from the brackets via the chain. Then its just a matter of measuring up your conveyor rubber, length and width depending how big you want your flaps, cut them to size and then remove the flat bar to drill both rubber and flat bar. I went to Truckline and bought a couple of plastic strips that the truckies use on one side of their truck mudflaps, very cheap and perfect for the job, they are abot 500mmx30mm. This helps to sandwich the rubber between the flat bar and the plastic strip and stops your mounting bolts(rubber to flat bar) pulling through the rubber. Put it all together and fit it under the car. Easy fit and remove via D shackle. Only problem I had was every now and then i heard a bit of a rattle from the chain I used, but a piece of sliced rubber hose(clear type from bunnings) fitted over the lenght of the chain soon stops this. It truely works a treat. I will post photos to make it all clearer. Ill also post my stone guard that I got made for the camper which is just shade cloth from bunnings with some sailtrack to secure it, very effective, looks great and very cheap. I hope you were able to follow this description, I realise its a bit long but I'm at work and cant take pics at the moment.
                        Cheers,
                        Gillies
                        03 120 Series TD 1KZ-TE- 3" Sterling Exhaust and dump, Steinbauer Chip, 2inch lift + Bilsteins, Dual Batteries, Soveriegn Bar + 9000lb Warn Winch.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          My Rock Tamers are starting to split at the bottom. I've got a few lengths of conveyor belt rubber that I will cut larger than the RTs. This will allow some extra cover out to the sides and to fill in the gap in the middle. Job for May when I get back from the lands. Will post up some pics of the finished product.
                          Dave
                          Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
                          Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Photos of your set up would be awesome Gillies....

                            Originally posted by Gillies1078 View Post
                            Hey Fellas,
                            I've fitted very effective mudflaps to the back of my 120. If you stick your head under the bum of your Prado you will see two under body mounts/ bolts with nuts and large washers on them, I utilised these mounting points to hang my mudflaps. Get a length of flat-bar, 30mmX3mm thick that is as long as the width of your Prado. Buy some conveyor rubber, make sure it is internally stitched for strength. A handful of D shackles and a few links of chain. A couple of L shaped brackets (bunnings sell them ready to go, they are about 50mmx50mm and 3mm thick steel brackets with a hole drilled in both flat faces of the bracket-perfect!) Loosen the nut on the underbody mount and fit the L bracket and re-install the nuts, nice and tight. Hang a D shackle from the downward pointing hole on the bracket. Hold the flat bar up underneath the car and judge how much chain(or more D shackles if you dont have a welder) you will need to hang the flat bar from the brackets. Remember the exhaust will be in the way too so just make your chain long enough to clear it. Angle both chains inward toward the middle of the car as this will stop the whole set up from swaying side to side. Once you are happy with how you think it will mount, either weld a shackle on the flat bar or drill a hole in the flatbar for the pin on the shacle to go through so the flat bar can be attached and hang from the brackets via the chain. Then its just a matter of measuring up your conveyor rubber, length and width depending how big you want your flaps, cut them to size and then remove the flat bar to drill both rubber and flat bar. I went to Truckline and bought a couple of plastic strips that the truckies use on one side of their truck mudflaps, very cheap and perfect for the job, they are abot 500mmx30mm. This helps to sandwich the rubber between the flat bar and the plastic strip and stops your mounting bolts(rubber to flat bar) pulling through the rubber. Put it all together and fit it under the car. Easy fit and remove via D shackle. Only problem I had was every now and then i heard a bit of a rattle from the chain I used, but a piece of sliced rubber hose(clear type from bunnings) fitted over the lenght of the chain soon stops this. It truely works a treat. I will post photos to make it all clearer. Ill also post my stone guard that I got made for the camper which is just shade cloth from bunnings with some sailtrack to secure it, very effective, looks great and very cheap. I hope you were able to follow this description, I realise its a bit long but I'm at work and cant take pics at the moment.
                            Cheers,
                            Gillies
                            Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              OK, I think I am shelving the FULL width idea, now just looking at over sized mudflap, you know, like the R.M Williams ones you see on the utes.

                              Any recommendations?
                              Check out our blog documenting our around Australia adventure: [URL="http://fealyfamily.wordpress.com/"]http://fealyfamily.wordpress.com/[/URL] 07 GXL D4D, Bilstein shocks, Dobinson coils, Red Arc isolator, 105Ah Allrounder dual battery, heavy duty outlet in rear for the CF80 Waeco. Tigerz11 full size rack and awning. GME TX 3100 UHF, Alpine CDE135bt head unit with Steering Wheel controller. Hilux washer jets. Zac Brown Band sticker

                              Comment

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