Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

[LiveFreeAndRoam Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LiveFreeAndRoam]

Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

I had conflicting advice from professionals about where to source main power, aux or starting battery. :roll: I ended up doing it to aux as I would rather run out of air than start.

When hooking it up to the main battery, the switch should be wired to the ignition, so it runs only when the motor is running; so it effectively runs off the alternator. In this configuration, there's no risk of flattening the main battery.

FWIW, on a D4D, I like wiring it to the ignition as it forces you to run the motor whilst airing up, and this helps to cool the turbo... a bit like a manual turbo-timer. this is especially important after hard-driving.

Depending on how your aux is wired, you could achieve the same thing. The important thing is to understand the pros/cons and your battery configuration.

Cheers,
LFaR.

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Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

Can anyone advise what the metal collars are on the quick release below. There appears to be two on there but unsure if one of these needs to be removed or both and instructions dont mention anything.




Also the following extract from a previous post I think is advising a further in-line fuse to be installed. Can anyone clarify exactly which specific wire should have the additional in-line fuse as I am not sure what the control circuit from the accessories supply is. I assume it should also be a 5amp fuse !

Previous Post extract :
2. The control circuit: from the accessories supply, through the pressure switch to the relay coil then back to negative. The only load on this circuit is the relay coil (which draws a very small current) hence the wire is a lighter gauge, which is probably good for about 5amps. The issue is that this lighter gauge wire is connected directly onto the accessories power supply, which is protected by a 50Amp fuse. So if there is a fault in the control circuit, the control circuit wire may melt before the 50Amp fuse blows.

Also any advice on when pushing the wire harness through the fire wall how can this be done to prevent water ingress through the firewall.

[Matty80 Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Matty80]

Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

Can anyone advise what the metal collars are on the quick release below. There appears to be two on there but unsure if one of these needs to be removed or both and instructions dont mention anything.

I believe (could be wrong of course) that it serves two purposes - one being as a type of heat sheild/sink ot aid in the dispersion of the heat generated during air compression. Also as a type of hand guard that both helps you release the hose from the connection point and helps prevent your hand comming into contact with the resevoir!

The installation instructions will inform you of which colour is for which connection as far as the loom is concerned (i don't have acces to my manual at the moment) however, the wire for illumination does not require a fuse, the wire for the compressor run does require a fuse. You can put fuses on both, it is your choice...

An alternative of using the main incomming accessories supply which is supplied by the 50A fuse, with my setup - I used the power supply and the illumination supply to the cigarette lighter in the dash console, which are already protected by lower rated fuses - I would still recommend adding an addition fuse to the run circuit. This also avoids the need to mess with the accessories supply at the fuse box. This method allows the compressor to be run when the car is not running - which is not always a good thing.

If you only want to allow the compressor to run when the car is running - then the compressor run circuit needs to be connected to the ignition supply.

As for through the firewall, only recommendation I can say if keep the hole you make in the rubber grommet as small as possible so that the rubber seals to the loom you run though it. Others will probably have more thoughts on this though!

Matt

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Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

GB as Matt suggested that is a heat shield to stop you burning you hands. Mine dosn't have this collar and after inflating the tyres the ait fitting is very hot so you want to disconnect it real quick or give it 5-10 to cool down.

I've linked into the accessories circuit with mine, not ignition but I've put an inline 2A or 5A fuse in there as well to protect the curcuit. Nothing gonna melt there. LFaR did the same so have a look on page 1 of this thread to see his walk through for the install or you can sort of see mine on about page 4 or 5. This is what the fuse holder looks like and I picked that up for about A$2.00 which included a fuse I think.

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Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

Just to get this right, you fit an in-line fuse 3amp or 5amp on the wire that connects to the ignition wire ???

The collars, should there be two there or do I need to remove one ??

[Matty80 Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Matty80]

Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

Just to get this right, you fit an in-line fuse 3amp or 5amp on the wire that connects to the ignition wire ???

The collars, should there be two there or do I need to remove one ??

Yes, connect an line fuse rated at 2A to 5A on the wire that connects to the ignition wire...

Depending on how/when you want the compressor to work, you can use the accessories supply instead - Schaffer and I and a few others i'm sure used the accessories, there may be a few that used the ignition. Choice is yours...

I have both collars on mine the idea being that when they are rotated individually so they line up they are able to be removes and when rotated so they are our of alignment they efectively 'lock' themselves into position. So leave them both on.

Matt

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Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

Can anyone advise what the metal collars are on the quick release below. There appears to be two on there but unsure if one of these needs to be removed or both and instructions dont mention anything.

I believe (could be wrong of course) that it serves two purposes - one being as a type of heat sheild/sink ot aid in the dispersion of the heat generated during air compression. Also as a type of hand guard that both helps you release the hose from the connection point and helps prevent your hand comming into contact with the resevoir!

The installation instructions will inform you of which colour is for which connection as far as the loom is concerned (i don't have acces to my manual at the moment) however, the wire for illumination does not require a fuse, the wire for the compressor run does require a fuse. You can put fuses on both, it is your choice...

An alternative of using the main incomming accessories supply which is supplied by the 50A fuse, with my setup - I used the power supply and the illumination supply to the cigarette lighter in the dash console, which are already protected by lower rated fuses - I would still recommend adding an addition fuse to the run circuit. This also avoids the need to mess with the accessories supply at the fuse box. This method allows the compressor to be run when the car is not running - which is not always a good thing.

If you only want to allow the compressor to run when the car is running - then the compressor run circuit needs to be connected to the ignition supply.

As for through the firewall, only recommendation I can say if keep the hole you make in the rubber grommet as small as possible so that the rubber seals to the loom you run though it. Others will probably have more thoughts on this though!

Matt

Matt,
I have tried to turn these collars and they seem stuck in the position as shown on the photo. Is the correct position of the two collars as shown in the photo correct or will I need to try and loosen the plastic nuts to enable the collars to turn ?

[GB Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close GB]

Re:

The compressor wiring involves two separate circuits:

1. The Power circuit: 8<snip>8
2. The control circuit: 8<snip>8

8<snip>8 8<snip>8

The easiest solution is to place an in-line fuse (say 3Amps) in the control circuit right at the point where you splice into the accessories wire. This will protect the control circuit should there be a fault and also provide discrimination

8<snip>8

Note that I have assumed the control wire is rated for about 5amps hence the 3amp fuse size. You need to verify the size on the control circuit wiring and size the fuse accordingly.

8<snip>8

Hope that makes sense.

Leachy,

Nice write-up mate. That makes perfect sense! I went scratching through the documentation again to find more info on the guage of the wire and this is what I found (see p.13 of ARB docs):

NOTE: The desired outlet should supply positive 12V DC, be fused at a minimum of 8amps, and be live only when the vehicle ignition key is in either the "ACC" position or in the "ON" position.

The ease of access to those wires got me excited and I skipped right over that note. I will get down to Supercheap to stock up on an 8 - 10 AMP fuse and add it to my circuit.

Leachy, you may have just saved me a lot-a-heartache.

I'll update the basenote with a pic and more info on this topic.

All the best,
LFaR.

Just a quick query :

From posts later on there is a suggestion to install a 3amp or 5amp in-line fuse in the cable connecting into the ignition or accessories. After reading this thread, are you say that the minimum fuse rating should be 10amp ??? The instructions dont sy anything about this !!

Also my wire harness has diodes on both the Blue/White cable which goes to the illumination and on teh Red/Yellw cable for connecting into the Accessories or Ignition. Can anyone explain what these are for ? The instructions say its tyo protect against current leakage whatever that means.

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Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

GB, It's a very low current control circuit. I either have a 2A or 5A fuse. I think 10A is over the top for this. Fuse should blow before the wire melts so the heavier fuse will need heavier cable. If you have low current cable then low current fuse.

[Matty80 Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Matty80]

Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

Also my wire harness has diodes on both the Blue/White cable which goes to the illumination and on teh Red/Yellw cable for connecting into the Accessories or Ignition. Can anyone explain what these are for ? The instructions say its tyo protect against current leakage whatever that means.

The diodes are not necessary for the system to function. However, they will protect the car in cases where the wiring loom may be incorrectly wired - so as not to back supply 12V into the accessories circuit. Relays also cause spikes in the line voltages due to 'back EMF' (electro-magnetic field) when the coil is de-energised, this induced voltage is in the opposite direction to the supply voltage and can, in some cases, cause issues for sensitive electronic devices. The diodes prevent this effect from getting to the cars electronics.

Current leakage? Hmmm, interesting... Current leakage implies an earth fault situation, and diodes wont stop that!

GB, It's a very low current control circuit. I either have a 2A or 5A fuse. I think 10A is over the top for this. Fuse should blow before the wire melts so the heavier fuse will need heavier cable. If you have low current cable then low current fuse.

Going with Schaffer on this one, 2A would be plenty enough, if you have trouble locating 2A fuses then 5A would be enough without jeopodising the circuit.

Matt

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Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

When installing the fixing plate for the compressor, am I right in understanding the instructions that this actually goes under the arch and acts like a big washer ? If so did anyone paint this plate on completion with underseal ?

I think it would be a better install if I was to make an additional plate, same size or slightly larger and use this directly under the compressor as the top surface of the arch is slight uneven and I think it would probably sit better, just as others have used the principal of utilising a spare battery tray.

Also should I be trying to install some rubber washers under the compressor to reduce vibrations, not sure if this thing going to be shaking much .

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Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

GB, It's a very low current control circuit. I either have a 2A or 5A fuse. I think 10A is over the top for this. Fuse should blow before the wire melts so the heavier fuse will need heavier cable. If you have low current cable then low current fuse.

Nick,

OK I managed to get hold of two in-line fuses and some 2amp fuse blades. Is there a need to put an in-line fuse on the other wire that connects into the instrument lighting ? Would this be overkill or just doing a more perfect install ??

[Schaffer Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Schaffer]

Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

GB, It's a very low current control circuit. I either have a 2A or 5A fuse. I think 10A is over the top for this. Fuse should blow before the wire melts so the heavier fuse will need heavier cable. If you have low current cable then low current fuse.

Nick,

OK I managed to get hold of two in-line fuses and some 2amp fuse blades. Is there a need to put an in-line fuse on the other wire that connects into the instrument lighting ? Would this be overkill or just doing a more perfect install ??

The only one worth putting in in addition to what was supplied is between your power source (ignition or accessories) and the switch. This is the circuit that powers the control relay and it's just a matter of putting in some protection to prevent a mishap raining on your parade. Dosn't matter if it is an end to end fuse and holder (like I posted earlier) or a blade fuse and holder or some other. Presumably the other illumination circuit has some sort of fusing or Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, believe that it does not require the additional protection. The circuit WILL work without this fuse but since the relay is controlloing a potentially high current circuit, if the relay malfunctions and shorts into the control circuit then perhaps damage could occur as a result of feedback from a relay through your control circuit into either your accessories or ingination circuit. I don't want to expertience that one and I'm sure Toyota would not care to help either.

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Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

Just a quick note guys,
My mate is on his 3rd one of these compressors - underwarranty - but it has been a real hassle.
I fitted an endless air system to my 1KZ-TE and it is great!
I have a small tank but will probably remove it and just rely on the hoses for air storage.

[Schaffer Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Schaffer]

Re: Install of ARB On-Board Air Compressor CKMA12

Just a quick note guys,
My mate is on his 3rd one of these compressors - underwarranty - but it has been a real hassle.
I fitted an endless air system to my 1KZ-TE and it is great!
I have a small tank but will probably remove it and just rely on the hoses for air storage.

Sounds like your mate has just been unlucky. Mine has been running strong for over two years and has never cutout or had any faults.