2 questions about my Safari snorkel

[Grandeman Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Grandeman]

Wise words from Jeff.

If you were going to play in water that deep, you should be using a water blind and you might also want to go to the trouble of inserting temporary plugs into the holes of the air cleaner housing.

I'm not so sure that I would want to permanently seal them unless I knew the reason Toyota designed holes in there in the first place.

I also don't think I would want to risk playing in water that is simply just too deep for the car. Like my installer said to me: "The snorkel is not designed to turn your car into a bloody submarine".

[MTpockets Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close MTpockets]

"The snorkle is not designed to turn your car into a bloody submarine".

Now they are pretty wise words eh.....

[gilbo Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close gilbo]

hi

i enquired at Safari and got these responses:

"With a diesel you will find it very hard to stall it by just blocking off the intake.

I would suggest getting water and pouring it around all the joins on the snorkel. Once you have done this turn the vehicle off and check inside the air box for any water. If there is no water then there should be no leaks"

and:

'By pointing the snorkel head backwards this will actual cause the snorkel to suck water in by causing a “vortex”. Unlike when the Air Ram is facing the correct way this will not part the water through the bottom of the Air Ram. It is a common misconception to turn the Snorkel head around so it doesn’t ingest water.


If you are ingesting water whilst in a river crossing through the top of the snorkel head then the water is way to high and you shouldn’t attempt the crossing in the first place, as this will cause damage to your engine that not even a snorkel could prevent"

Still not sure if turning the head around effects performance in normal bituman driving.

[lc120_man Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close lc120_man]

Guys,

As Glen (xvprado) mentioned before, the best way to check it is to use silicone on the holes. Let it seat for the day to dry up and then try it again with the bag over snorkel head...

I installed snorkel on my car myself so I know how many joints there are...
There are at least 2 joints that you can't see... Now if any of those joints weren't tightened up properly you'll find about it on the first serious river crossing...
Even if you find that everything is OK I would check them at least once a year as a rubber gets pressured/vibrations over time and there are more give in it, like the water hoses at home with the clamps on them needing tightening up over time.

Now the 3 holes mentioned before typically should be opened. But If you are planning a trip where you are likely to cross rivers/etc use silicone to seal them up for the trip and then re-open them again once you get backhome....

[Damien Parker Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Damien Parker]

Those pictures remind me of the depths around Newcastle the other week... :shock:

[Grandeman Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Grandeman]

Those pictures remind me of the depths around Newcastle the other week... :shock:

Damn right about that, mate! :shock:

[Drew Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Drew]

I think the key here is "path of least resistance".

If your snorkel is working as advertised and you drive your vehicle into water deep enough to cover the airbox for example, I think you'll find everything will work as it should but blocking the air intake to the snorkel as a test is a bit over the top in my opinion.

Drew.