Originally posted by Steve M
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Water and Possible Rust Behind Boot Seal
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Hi guys,
After reading these posts I thought I’d check out under the rear tailgate seal on my 2005 GXL only to be
Disappointed finding rust, water and a heap of red dust looking stuff everyone is talking about.
To my mate surprise his 2005 Grande is also rusted.
I went ahead and treated the rust and re painted the affected area but am reluctant to use the same seal as there are traces of rust in it which are hard to get out so I went down to the local Toyota dealer to get a price on a new seal, $360 .The spare parts guy there told me that if its a common problem with that model (like the cracked dash problem)to call Toyota customer care as they might come to the party on supplying a new seal, so I did only to be told that “WE HAVE NEVER HEARD OF THIS PROBLEM BEFORE” and there is nothing they could do as the car is 8 years old.
I’ll be writing a letter to Toyota to inform them that there is a problem with rust under the rear seal on the 120 series Prado and that an 8 year old car SHOULD NOT HAVE RUST . So hopefully the next person calling up regarding this issue won’t be told the same crap I was.
So how many of you guys out there on Pradopoint have reported this problem to Toyota or had warranty claims with this issue as it seems pretty wide spread and for them never to of heard of it before doesn’t sound right.
Thanks guys
Steve
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Which one of these should I use ?? Is there any certain type of undercoat/primer I should buy before applying final white coat ?? I went to three spare shops this arvo to get the stuff and none of them had any idea about the process I should be using. The weird thing is in supercheap they had similar stuff to this picture but when I read the back of it, it said not to be used on auto vehicle WTF, why else would supercheap be selling it needless to say I walked out. Timmy your process sounds ok (same as butane) did you buy the Wattyl from bunnings or some thing ?? I just want to do it right and don't want any paint flaking or peeling etc from applying the wrong things due to different paints bit like painting water paint over oil based don't want it coming off. I rang Toyota today also to get that gooee stuff you find under some door rubbers but they don't sell it. Any idea fo the name of this stuff. Don't want to use sikaflex or any thing like they use on windscreen or Ill never get it off if I need to...........Cheers Steve And yes found surface rust under my rear rubber also......[IMG][/IMG]Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet
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Steve, the rust remover is probably a similar product to Deoxidine, which is primarily for very light surface rust. From memory, you applied the stuff with steel wool and worked it into the metal. Once dry, you hit it with an etch primer, then undercoat etc.
The rust converter is most likely the stuff which is a milky colour, and changes to a black plasticky coating once it's done it's job. You can then paint over it in the usual way. That stuff is a bit easier to work with, and I think more suited for a repair such as this.
The goop you want to get is a type of mastic. There are a few brands around, but I always used Bostik windscreen sealer, as it doesn't go like mozzarella cheeze and leave spiderwebs all over your paintwork. It cleans up with kero and is easy to re-work later on if you need to remove the seal (stays soft).[i]I remember when sex was safe, and flying was dangerous![/i]
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Hey Steve M,
I used the Repco rust converter/sealer like the one in your photo
but in a pressure pack which is black in colour, I gave it two light
coats making sure I put extra in the gap between the two spot welded
edges to make sure you get any hidden rust and to protect from future
moisture.This stuff can be a little tacky so i gave it a few days to dry
before painting
I then painted the area with paint purchased from Autobarn that was mixed
to my colour paint code they then put in a pressurised can ready to use
(fantastic colour match) followed by a few coats of clear. I noticed the
rusted area and surrounds wasn't painted grey like the car but had a factory type of primer so I thought
id do the whole area .
Also what else I found is that the water was getting in from an area at the top of the seal
where there is an overlapped join in the body which doesn't allow the seal to sit flat
leaving a gap for water to enter. I ran some windscreen sealant just on and over the edge of the
seal and into the gap where the metal overlaps , very hard to notice the sealant is even there.
Good luck with the repair
SteveLast edited by sjcprado120; 02-07-2013, 08:07 PM.
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will check how it went
will pull my rear door seal off a.s.a.p and take a few photo's , and see how my repair , is holding up after 6 months .... stay tuned , cheers boys , butane[u][i][b][color=#0000FF] ..lets take her out for a spin... butane[/color][/b][/i][/u]
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFK707FE9SM[/url]
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Cheers Steve, I like the point you made with the last picture where the water is entering and getting under the rubber, will definitely pay attention to this area when I put the rubber back on. Did you do the same as Butane in regards to cleaning the rubber prior to putting it back in place ?? ....Cheers SteveFace lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet
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Thanks Butane, be interesting to see how its held up as you have said.............Cheers mate SteveLast edited by Steve M; 02-07-2013, 10:20 PM.Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet
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Hi Steve, was just wondering what sealant did u use to swipe on the panel that is over lapping ?? Where you think water travels down. I went to get some windscreen sealant to use around rubber but only comes on black which I can't use on that panel obviously due to it would look ugly when I open the door, or will just any silastic do for the panel as long as its clear ??..... Cheers SteveFace lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet
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Hey Steve,
I actually used Repco windscreen sealer which I ran a very small bead along the top edge on the door seal paying extra attention around the gap I mentioned then ran my finger over it to smooth it out , i then tidied it up with turps on a rag. You cant even tell its there , but my car is grey and I think you said yours is white so it would stand out more if you don't get a nice edge on the sealant. I must say it has sealed the edge on the door seal nicely. I found the seal didn't sit as tight on the car once it was removed and cleaned and needed some sort of sealing but I wouldn't recommend using silastic/silicone as once that's on your paint you cant get it off. Its not the ideal way to fix it but couldn't find that grey Toyota stuff and I ran out of options as it is now winter and getting a heap of rain ,At least I know the water isn't getting in..
Good luck
Steve
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Just pulled the rear passengers side interior trim off just to check behind. I did notice the padding under the rear carpet a tad damp so I would say the rear seal is letting the water in when I wash the car and the padding is sucking it up. I also checked out the external rubber flap on passengers side next to where the jack is. I presume this is to stop pressure in the cabin when shutting doors etc, BUT what a way to let dust in. I put the torch from the outside up against the rubber flap then had a look from inside. No bloody wonder these things fill up with dust. And I think if you ran your aircon on recirc it would be worse as it would be trying to pull the dust in through these flaps. Looks like another job on the agenda by taking off rear bar and sealing these bits of crappy rubber flaps up. Also where the tow bar wiring goes down through the rear floor/grommet its only a very small hole/slit around the cable but again enough to let dust in. Will certainly be checking it out further while I have the trim off and running some wiring direct from battery for power. One thing leads to another I always find lol.....Cheers Steve[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet
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