####,
My kit came with all required, including a circuit breaker to be used when getting power directly from the battery, the supplied cables were quite thick, indicating the draw required.
There is no blue wire running front to back, but there is a tail in behind the passenger side tail light, near the jack, that is dead easy to tap into for the trailer wiring, mine is a standard Toyota tow bar, not sure if others offer the same..
The hardest part was finding a good spot to hang the controller.
One thing to note, is, once it is installed and running, when you turn off the ignition, the unit remains powered up and running for 5-15mins. It is normal.
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Which colour wire on brake pedal to connect Tekonsha P3 electric brake controller to?
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####,
My kit came with all required, including a circuit breaker to be used when getting power directly from the battery, the supplied cables were quite thick, indicating the draw required.
There is no blue wire running front to back, but there is a tail in behind the passenger side tail light, near the jack, that is dead easy to tap into for the trailer wiring, mine is a standard Toyota tow bar, not sure if others offer the same..
The hardest part was finding a good spot to hang the controller.
One thing to note, is, once it is installed and running, when you turn off the ignition, the unit remains powered up and running for 5-15mins. It is normal.
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Thankx guys,
It all helps, I will run it to the battery.
Anyone else got any tips? Nothing like being prepared.
I won't be doing it till next week.
####.
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Hey bud...Originally posted by Anth120playdo View PostHi all,
I'm using the forums info at the moment, I might be a vehicle technician, but I don't know everything & have never fitted a brake controller.
I have a p2 to fit to my 2003. 120 series.
It seems simple, but there are a few variables?????
1.) Although on some vehicles there can be issues with connecting at the stop light switch I think on our vehicles we don't have these problems?
Has anyone had issues with this on a 120 series?
2.) it asks to be connected direct to the battery, why would this be required? Surely some constant power from under dash will suffice?
For that matter, why do they want constant power? Wouldn't it be better to wire to accessory power?
3.) is there definitely no blue/trailer wire that runs from front to rear already? I know it's easy to run one, but I just think why do it if its there?
I'm yet to check if mine, it may have had a brake controller fitted before & a wire might be there.
Thankx in advance or any replys.
1.) As a vehicle technician, you won't have trouble accessing the brake switch. You will already be accustomed to contortionist type positions we get into (Alarm and Remote Start specialist here)
2.) Use Constant power as that's what your brakes have. Don't grab power from under the dash because of the current that can be required under heavy braking. The only potential source is the ignition harness and to take power from there under heavy braking will mean a voltage right across the car. Get it severe enough and some relays may switch off shutting down parts of the car while emergency braking.
3.) No clue.
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HI ####, it is easy. I did it myself and have no mechanical or electrical training....
1) I installed into the break wire after the switch in the passenger's side kick panel. Just find the right coloured wire and check it is the break wire using a test lamp. This way you don't have to run the wire all the way to the back of the car. That seemed to be much easier to me and that way I only run one wire (I don't need any other wires as I run my aux power down the drivers side to a bus bar in the rear.
2) I think it is only a preferred safety issue, but it could be run off the closest aux power
3) There is definitely no blue wire running the full length. It ends just next to the jack inside the passenger side rear panel (accessed by removing the interior trim).
Leave a comment:
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Hi all,
I'm using the forums info at the moment, I might be a vehicle technician, but I don't know everything & have never fitted a brake controller.
I have a p2 to fit to my 2003. 120 series.
It seems simple, but there are a few variables?????
1.) Although on some vehicles there can be issues with connecting at the stop light switch I think on our vehicles we don't have these problems?
Has anyone had issues with this on a 120 series?
2.) it asks to be connected direct to the battery, why would this be required? Surely some constant power from under dash will suffice?
For that matter, why do they want constant power? Wouldn't it be better to wire to accessory power?
3.) is there definitely no blue/trailer wire that runs from front to rear already? I know it's easy to run one, but I just think why do it if its there?
I'm yet to check if mine, it may have had a brake controller fitted before & a wire might be there.
Thankx in advance or any replys.
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Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I've decided given that I've been towing the camper, I should be probably get off my backside and install the brake controller!!
How are people running cables to the rear of the car? In cabin, or out the firewall and following the chassis etc?
Thanks
Ian.
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Never Ever, Ever??
I was reconsidering even as I was putting it all back together again.
Could be part of my other issue, relating to powering off the device...
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Must confess MD I was lazy and used one of those. Has been there for 6 months no probs but I promise it's on my list of things to, eg splice and solder properly.
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Hi Guys, old thread I know. But it has helped me no end installing my P3. Question, is a ScotchLok enough to secure the wire at the brake pedal loom? It was sort of easy to get to, but not sure if I need more than the ScotchLok.
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Installation of Tekonsha P3 brake wire
Thanks MeachieOriginally posted by Meachie View PostI fitted the same brake controller just the other month, no real issue splicing into loom at the brakelight switch, everything working well.
It is the Green wire with the yellow stripe, (2008 D4D GXL).
Cheers.
Just to confirm as per the above, the Green wire with yellow stripe for brake activation works, was thinking of taking the easy way but it wasn't that hard to hook into.(2007 GXL D4D)
Regards Adam
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Looks like my fun is just beginning. Have the brake controller, UHF and power wire to anderson plug to install. Thanks for the info and hints.
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Installed a P3 yesterday into my 2004 120 series. I removed a couple of panels for easier access to the switch. Squeeze the release clip on the back of the cable plug to remove it from the actual brake switch. This makes cutting in and soldering fairly easy.
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