Ive tried both the Bendix 4x4 and Bendix Ultra premium with ceramic technology pads. Prefer the Ultra premiums over the 4x4, which seem to require a little warming up before they work at maximum efficiency. Rotors - DBA Kangaroo paw slotted rotors work very well. If you're worried about the bleeding process, you can stick a block of wood under the pedal to keep the stroke in the normal range.
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Hi Guys, to be clear, im new here and please dont take it, like i think i know it all, its far from it, Im planning to learn more here than i will share/teach.
Ive done a lot of brakes and when i say, i use bendix, im talking Bendix CT for passenger vehicle or on a 4X4, Bendix 4x4, that is what i refer to sorry, I dont recommend ultimate.
ultimate do chew, dust, and not work till warmer, good for Police TMU thats about it, new pads n rotors every 30k (max)
Brakes are brakes, there are many variable cituations..... weird things happen, but I can confidently say if you put Bendix 4x4 pads in your Prado and Machine rotors on the car, i would be very suprised if you have any complaints.
Happy to share my experience thats all!
good luck with your choices!
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+1 hereOriginally posted by Anth120playdo View Postbut I can confidently say if you put Bendix 4x4 pads in your Prado and Machine rotors on the car, i would be very suprised if you have any complaints.
Happy to share my experience thats all!
good luck with your choices!
2008 Diesel Prado with extra stuff added. I drive it on the road and other places too.
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Thanks guy. Robust discussion. I will look at the tolerance and see if the rotors can be machined. Probably go with the bendix 4x4 style. Shes no sports car and stopping when cold would be good. Thanks again2006 Prado GX silver, 6 speed manual, LPG, ARB Delux Winch Bar, IPF's, snorkel, UHF, 2" Lift with Dobinson Coils, Poly airbags, Bilstein Shocks, Pacemaker Headers, Cooper ST's, Piranha Dual Battery System.
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Hi guys
Have to say +2 on the Bendix 4x4 as the rig pulls up really well (Better than the Toyo's) and has no squeals/ Pulling over or vibrations.
Changed my front pads today for the first time ever at 146,000km.
These was the originals that came with the rig from new
The old front pads still had 5mm left on them and all had worn even.
Discs not marked/ Grooved or scored so just fitted new pads only with no disc replacement or machining needed.
For a bench mark i paid $71.12 @ Bursons.... Repco wanted well over $100+ for the same pads!
Hand brake shoes are only 10% worn and rear pads only 45% worn.
These also are still the originals that came on the rig from new. I do not tow heavy loads or Live on a hill and it is a manual so i believe this is why i am getting high K's from the brakes.
The vehicle is also more inclined to do long trips as appose to short so this also accounts to high K's out of the brakes.
Cheers
Last edited by SWR; 29-11-2012, 09:10 PM.
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Hey mate,
I swapped out my front rotors for slotted versions and put Bendix 4x4 pads all round. Made a huge difference and my rig travels with allot of weight all the time. I will be upgrading the back rotors on the next pad change.
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Hi Dueller,
I'm interested in better brakes for my Prado - have just come back from 2 weeks in the Vic. high country and the brakes struggled when towing my camper.The camper is fitted with inertia discs and these work well if you hit the brakes hard but not so well on gradual slopes or long downhill runs. I cooked the Prado brakes at one stage.
Where did you get the slotted discs from? how much ?
Thanks,
Bruce.2007 Silver Grande D4D. ARB deluxe bar, 12000 ORU winch, IPF 800xs HID driving lights, Bilstien/Dobinson 2" lift, Pirana diff. breathers, TJM snorkel, BFG All terrain tyres. Tunit power chip pulling a Kimberley Kamper with "the lot".
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G'day Bruce,Originally posted by Bellyup View PostHi Dueller,
I'm interested in better brakes for my Prado - have just come back from 2 weeks in the Vic. high country and the brakes struggled when towing my camper.The camper is fitted with inertia discs and these work well if you hit the brakes hard but not so well on gradual slopes or long downhill runs. I cooked the Prado brakes at one stage.
Where did you get the slotted discs from? how much ?
Thanks,
Bruce.
Mate I have sent you a PM explaining my brake upgrade with links and explinations. Hope it helps.
Cheers,[B]Prado 120 Series Build; [/B][U][url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?24346-Desert-Dueler-120[/url][/U]
[B]Customline Off Road Deluxe CT Build; [/B][U][url]http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=38826.0[/url][/U]
[B]WS Tarpon 120 Kayak Build; [/B][U][url]http://www.kfdu.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=40099[/url][/U]
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There are slotted rotors on ebay that are just as good as your top line names and half the price. In fact you will find that they are the same in every way as they all have to conform to Australian Standards. I have a set on the front of mine, replaced the pads to Bendix and put new fluid through. Have had no problems with them and the combo has improved my stopping ability. When the pads are up for replacing again ill be buying the same set of rotors for the rear.
Cheers,[B]Prado 120 Series Build; [/B][U][url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?24346-Desert-Dueler-120[/url][/U]
[B]Customline Off Road Deluxe CT Build; [/B][U][url]http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=38826.0[/url][/U]
[B]WS Tarpon 120 Kayak Build; [/B][U][url]http://www.kfdu.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=40099[/url][/U]
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Not sure I agree with this statement. That would be like saying a Toyota Corolla is just as good as a Ferrari because both of them are cars and comply with Australian standards.Originally posted by Dueler120 View PostThere are slotted rotors on ebay that are just as good as your top line names and half the price. In fact you will find that they are the same in every way as they all have to conform to Australian Standards.NOW FOR SALE!!! - 2004 Silver GXL 3lt 4spd Auto - ARB Bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Redarc Dual Battery System, Cooper ST MAXX, Dark Tint, IPF900XS spots, Raised Bilstein/Kings Suspension/Firestone Airbags, Autosafe Cargo Barrier, Sandgrabbers, Rola Roof Rack Stuff, Insect Screen, Dust/Wind Deflectors, Sheepskin/Black Duck Seatcovers, GME TX3510, ARB underbonnet compressor, Allied Hammer Rims, ARB UVP, [url="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?18043-Rock-sliders-steel-side-steps"]AJ Sliders[/url]
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Madkore,
Mate what I was getting at is that the International standards & ISO certificates are there to maintain certain safety and quality of the product. If the rotors in question meet the same standards as another similar product then you can expect them to perform to the same level that both are certified too. The reasoning behind my statement is to make sure people look at these numbers to ensure the product they are bolting on their car is safe, comes from a reputable manufacturer and will not cause problems with insurances or the police if something was to ever go wrong and inspectors start asking questions on what was done to the car. If a part eg rubber seal is on a Ferrari or a Datsun 120y the part is expected to do the same job and be built to the quality expected if the items are comparable units. Other than maby a fuse I dont think you can compare a corolla with a farrari as they are subject to a multitude of different design parameters and built for different uses eg. vehicle speed vs its braking capacity as a specific and not a generalisation of the entire car. If the cars were compared on say their safety criteria specifically then yes they would have to achieve a baseline performance, quality and safety spec to drive on the road so they would be similar if judged in that fashion but again they are in two different leagues. The slotted rotors I refer to have been compared to OEM or a compatible after market unit built to service the same area of the market eg. slotted rotors to fit onto a 120 Series Prado, not looking at the biggest slotted rotor used in a supercar with ceramic brakes.
When I discuss ISO its related to the certification given to organisations that achieve a certain level of quality management processes in their business. This is to ensure the company has a structure and systems put in place to oversee the construction of their products and ensure they achieve the requirements of customers.
http://www.iso9001consultant.com.au/...-ISO-9001.html
Here is the link to the seller I got my front rotors from;
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Front-S...item1c26c59126
Note the ISO quality management system cert and warranty period.
The company that builds these rotors is Reton Internatonal. This is the link to the certifications, namely ECE R90 for brake pads and shoe criteria and backs up the same ISO quality management cert with the inclusion of TS16949 ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO/TS_16949 ). Also note the manufacturers they have provided parts too;
http://www.reton.com.au/Brake-systems/Brake-Rotors.aspx
European regulation ECE R90 requires that all brake pads and shoes must pass testing comparing the performance of the aftermarket product with that of the original brake components. This means that they offer comparable or even superior performance to that of the original equipment.
For comparison purpose, here is the DBA site certification link;
http://www.dba.com.au/about/certifications/
And the rotor warranty period of one year also;
http://www.dba.com.au/warranty-statement/
Of course DBA are considered a premium product with their slotted rotors going for double the price of the Reton units. For various reasons they are pricing their product on a number of different reasons weather it be pattern design etc. All im saying is I believe the two comparable products will perform they way that they are intended and what I expect them to do if they are manufactured against the same standard and audit tools.
Another example, displaying the same certifications as both the above companies is Brembo.
I was looking at the DBA's' but am comfortable bolting on the Reton versions as I did my research and found that they were not some back yard copy, did come with the same warranty period, the manufacturer has provided OEM products to Toyota and were manufactured under the same guidelines as the DBA units. For the price I saved on my rotors I was able to upgrade the pads and put new brake fluid through the lines to give me a cost effective upgrade that stops the car better than what it did in its factory setup.
With everything I choose to buy I always try and compare its specs and certs with an industry brand name. Sometimes you find the product you want that ticks all the safety/ quality box's and does not cost you an arm and a leg.
Cheers,[B]Prado 120 Series Build; [/B][U][url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?24346-Desert-Dueler-120[/url][/U]
[B]Customline Off Road Deluxe CT Build; [/B][U][url]http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=38826.0[/url][/U]
[B]WS Tarpon 120 Kayak Build; [/B][U][url]http://www.kfdu.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=40099[/url][/U]
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