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How to bleed the accumulator type ABS brake system

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  • How to bleed the accumulator type ABS brake system

    Hi All,

    After replacing my two front brake callipers I thought it would be a easy job to bleed air out of the system.... I was wrong. I started with a "traditional" bleeding process with nipples, some tubes and 2 persons.
    My brake system:
    http://s64.photobucket.com/user/Sasi..._1962.jpg.html

    During the night with the brake callipers removed, I expected fluid to stay inside the open brake tubes, as I had the pedal being pushed and hold down. This didn't work, some fluid came out anyway during the night.
    Now, there seems to be some air trapped in the ABS/ESP- accumulator system. I did several bleeding combinations without any success... and an pedal without normal brake response.

    1) Are there some options to bleed the trapped air out of the system without the use of an special diagnostic tool the Intelligent Tester Tool II?
    2) Is there an hidden nipple on the ABS/booster module?
    3) Or is there some methods to get the ECU in a "bleed" mode?

    Experiments I've done so far... without getting the air out:

    Pumping out air with ignition OFF went OK --> Brake pedal got firm again.
    Switching ignition ON (engine off) --> electronic pump pumps ~30sec - when pushing the pedal, its totally empty feeling, as if all the oil is gone and I'm pumping air... when pedal is pushed, electronic pump kicks in...sound is like air is being pumped.
    Ignition OFF --> a few pumps and its firm again
    If pedal is firm --> while switching ignition to ON --> sound of the pump is as if it's pumping some oil during the first second / the first pedal stroke, then it gets an empty sound "air pumping sound". If ignition is switched off and on again, same short oil pump sounds returns, followed by empty air pump sound.

    When bleeding nipples are opened after pressing pedal:
    - when ignition is OFF --> no air comes out of the tubes, only fluid
    - when ignition is ON--> no air comes out, like with ignition off, but pumping feeling is as an "empty feeling" as with closed nipples. It feels as I'm only pumping air. This is what I expected, as the booster helps with pushing out the fluid

    Closing the nipples:
    - when ignition is OFF --> pedal is immediately firm,
    - when ignition is ON --> empty "air" pumping feeling remains a few pedal strokes, than suddenly within one stroke, it gets firm again --> as if some volume is filled up with oil, which is pumped empty when ignition is switched ON.

    When engine is started, effect is same as with ignition ON, however --> after few strokes of the pedal, all lights ABS/VSC show a Christmas tree, beeper beeps loud and pump doesn't stop anymore after 30 seconds --> as if some other internal area was emptied now as well.

    I'm pretty clueless what to do next. All help is appreciated!!

  • #2
    Have you bled all 4 corners?

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Pugaree,

      Clearly not properly. I was so much focussing on my front callipers as they were removed... That the rear callipers were finished to easily.
      Today I noticed that with ignition OFF, it seems as if nothing at all comes out of the rear nipples. As if some remains closed. Front do bleed fluid. After switching ON, suddenly air came out of the rear nipples, and than oil... I made several sequences around the car, bleeding all of them many times. There was definitely some air trapped in the rear lines.

      I'm still not 100% happy with the result of today, with engine on.... its still pretty spongy... although brake force seems to be OK, I will bleed again in a couple of days... but ... brakes are back.. and no alarm lights any more!

      Thanks for pointing out my mistake of missing air in the rear line!

      Comment


      • #4
        Good to hear, it always pays to do all 4 wheels anytime you need to bleed. There are a few good YouTube videos around that will help as well.

        Comment


        • #5
          Very interested to hear where you get to with this. I had my fluids changed at a workshop and they have never been the same. I have bled them a few times and have never been able to get rid of that spongy feel. Brakes work fine, just dont feel as firm.

          Comment


          • #6
            Doing a bit of reading on this and if air has got into the accumulator, which could account for the softer pedal feel, it a bit of a process to bleed and will take a specialist workshop to do it. Anyhow let us know how you go.

            Comment


            • #7
              Does anyone have experience with injecting brake fluid under pulsating air pressure into the reservoir, and pumping/bleeding all 4 this way?
              Anyone with this or other success stories in getting spongy feeling out of system / pushing out the remaining air out of the accumulator?

              A 4x4 workshop told me they only use this "reservoir pressure pulsating" method, with 0.5 bar (instead of the standard 0.8bar as reservoir broke...). I guess they do it with ignition ON or engine ON (to bypass the closed rear brake valves) to ensure all 4 calipers get pressure/fluid/air.

              I'm still not sure what this rear fluid valve lock is with ignition off is, maybe it has some relation to "roll back" assist or other distribution system, but I guess this is why an "Intelligent Brake tester" (http://www.moranbahweather.com/toyot.../m_32_0006.pdf) is used according manual. When ignition is on, pressure is boosted when pedal is pumped and oil pumps out or rear nipples. When switched off, oil gets out till pedal gets hard. Then fluid flow stops. To be further investigated...

              Comment


              • #8
                Try this. Copied from lcool.

                http://www.lcool.org/forum/viewtopic...asc&highlight=

                you will need to register for the entire piece.

                Gents,
                You only pump the master cylinder 40 plus times if the unit has been dis-assembled and there is air to be bled from the system.

                For a normal bleed the procedure is:
                Manual process , needs 2 people.
                Ingition on
                Pump pedal 20 times.
                Bleed from rear [left side first then right side] with pedal held down.
                Top up reservoir to maximum level. You should have taken 250ml of fluid out of each side at this point, so you would have checked the reservoir between sides.

                Stroke bleed the left front then right front.
                You should have removed 250ml out of each side so you may need to check the reservoir level in between each side.

                Top up reservoir to maximum line.

                Go back to rear and repeat procedure, this time take out about 150ml from each.

                Top up reservoir to just below max line.
                This process removes 1 to 1.3 litre from the system, which effectively means you have removed most of the moisture saturated fluid and replaced it with new.

                20 minutes and your done.

                Cheers
                08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
                06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
                Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.

                Comment

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