Inspection hole for adjusting screw. (work out which way it goes before putting rotor back on.inspection hole with rotor on (not much room, need small flat tip screw driver) Screw brake shoes out until they rub constanlty when turning rotor then back off until it partly rubs.Use handbrake a couple of times and check clearance. Torque wheel nuts to 112NM I didn't have to adjust inside the cab. Adjustment should allow 5-7 clicks of the handbrake
Paul,What you have described is the same way a Prado adjuster works. See winniliss pics above for the hole location. You will need the hole right at the bottom. Then use a small flat screwdriver and wind the star wheel in an upwards direction to adjust the shoes out/downwards to wind them in. PITA job sometimes to locate the adjuster but a small point torch will help.Chriso
Many thanks to the above tips. Adjusted mine while the wheels were off for cleaning. Moved the star wheel 2-3 teeth upwards and the handbrake is pulling up nicely now.
Many thanks to the above tips. Adjusted mine while the wheels were off for cleaning. Moved the star wheel 2-3 teeth upwards and the handbrake is pulling up nicely now.
Yes you can adjust them up really well, be aware, leave more than a bit of clearance, back it off a few turns if your an offroader, or as soon as mud, sand & other wet grit gets in there, it will immediately grind the clearance for you.
This will cost you the pain of changing the shoes before too long. It depends on offroad use how fast this can happen.
It's a good idea to give them a really good flush after offroading, put hose/ pressure washer between backing plate & disc all the way around till it runs clear.
Ripped off my rear discs today. As I've never touched the handbrake and suspect it's never been done by Toyota when they serviced it. (Last 140k km services done in house.)
Was expecting no shoes to be left. As handbrake was pretty well at end of its adjustment and handle was all way up.
Had ordered a new set of bendix handbrake shoes, new 4x4 rear pads and some DBA t2 rear rotors.
Well.
241,100 kms old. This is what they looked like... Haven't bothered replacing them. I am really unsure if they have ever been changed? I don't recall ever paying Toyota for them and I certainly haven't done them. So if this is how they have lasted it's a win!
They still worked ok, albeit it was out of up stroke on the handle.
I Adjusted them up today on the adjusters and they are sweet as now!
Ripped off my rear discs today. As I've never touched the handbrake and suspect it's never been done by Toyota when they serviced it. (Last 140k km services done in house.)
Was expecting no shoes to be left. As handbrake was pretty well at end of its adjustment and handle was all way up.
Had ordered a new set of bendix handbrake shoes, new 4x4 rear pads and some DBA t2 rear rotors.
Well.
241,100 kms old. This is what they looked like... Haven't bothered replacing them. I am really unsure if they have ever been changed? I don't recall ever paying Toyota for them and I certainly haven't done them. So if this is how they have lasted it's a win!
They still worked ok, albeit it was out of up stroke on the handle.
I Adjusted them up today on the adjusters and they are sweet as now!
Ahaaa,,plenty of meat! Lucky you!
See you are a tourer, you have stayed out of the mud :-)
You know mud = $$$$ & it wears them in no time, no mud no wear, just a few clicks & she's like new hey!!!
I would like to add my opinion, ha aaaa what's new?
If anyone is going to the trouble to change rear shoes, I'd say pop the axle out & replace the seal in the end of the diff.
You have done most of the work & the shitty part (handbrake shoes) so may as well do the bit more.
Because the rear bearings last very well, but the seals wear out, they just wear through.
If you catch it before it fails, it may save a bearing, because once it leaks, the first you will know about it, it the mess above, oil has gone through the bearing, so I'm unsure of its life after that has happened.
The bearing replacement requires special tools & much more $$$ than replacing a $20 seal & preventing it.
I'm not saying to go & change your rear diff seals, just if your doing the shoes.
It will require disconnecting Caliper, bleeding brakes, unbolting handbrake cable from backing plate to fully remove axle. There are 4 retailing bolts as you would see.
If you choose to accept this mission, you may self destruct!
Actually mine has done heaps of work on dirt and mud.
It's been buried to the sills more times than I can remember. Heaps of mud holes and creek work.
Was surprised how clean it was in there.
However last week saw a fair bit of this.. Might have given it a bit of a wash out.
Actually mine has done heaps of work on dirt and mud.
It's been buried to the sills more times than I can remember. Heaps of mud holes and creek work.
Was surprised how clean it was in there.
However last week saw a fair bit of this.. Might have given it a bit of a wash out.
Very odd.
Even with big washing, after lots of mud, usually still very messy in there.
Anyway you must be a really good cleaner then, lol....
Can the 150 hand brake be adjusted as easily? I know on the 120 it was an easy process to adjust under the center consol. Doesnt seem to be the same adjustment on 150? I have run out of hand brake and cant park on a hill anymore without being in gear.
Can the 150 hand brake be adjusted as easily? I know on the 120 it was an easy process to adjust under the center consol. Doesnt seem to be the same adjustment on 150? I have run out of hand brake and cant park on a hill anymore without being in gear.
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