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  • replacing front cv/drive shaft???

    Hi All

    I have just noticed that my front right hand side outer drive/cv shaft boot has split and leaking grease mixed with water.

    I am thinking of just replacing the whole drive shaft, does anyone know if you need to drain the front diff oil or can the shaft be taken out of the diff without oil spilling out everywhere???
    Prado 120 GXL v6 Petrol 2003, Lovell 50mm raised springs -HD Front -Medium Rear, Bilstein Shocks, 600w inverter, Rhino roof rack and tray.

  • #2
    If you jack the vehicle high enough on that side you can replace the CV without losing any oil
    [size=2][color=#4000FF]2009 GXL D4D Manual
    [/color][/size]

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi matt01
      Yes mate you will have to drain front diff oil to do cv shaft. I would also suggest to pick up a genuine axle seal. You dont want to do all that work and then have to do it again a couple of weeks later due to oil leak. The genuine seal has small sipes in lip which helps keep the oil in. All up its not a hard job and should take you a couple of hrs to complete. All the best Kris
      96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

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      • #4
        If you jack the vehicle high enough on that side you can replace the CV without losing any oil
        That is very true and is exactly what we did on a desert trip a few years ago.
        In the workshop though, I would just drop the oil and replace with new when the job is done.
        2008 Diesel Prado with extra stuff added. I drive it on the road and other places too.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the quick response.

          Which would be best, genuine or after market CV???
          Prado 120 GXL v6 Petrol 2003, Lovell 50mm raised springs -HD Front -Medium Rear, Bilstein Shocks, 600w inverter, Rhino roof rack and tray.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Playdoh96 View Post
            Hi matt01
            Yes mate you will have to drain front diff oil to do cv shaft. I would also suggest to pick up a genuine axle seal. You dont want to do all that work and then have to do it again a couple of weeks later due to oil leak. The genuine seal has small sipes in lip which helps keep the oil in. All up its not a hard job and should take you a couple of hrs to complete. All the best Kris
            I noticed in the workshop manual that there is an oil seal on the wheel end of the cv shaft and a dust seal on the diff end of the cv shaft. If the seal you are talking about is on the wheel end of the cv shaft where does the oil come from???
            Prado 120 GXL v6 Petrol 2003, Lovell 50mm raised springs -HD Front -Medium Rear, Bilstein Shocks, 600w inverter, Rhino roof rack and tray.

            Comment


            • #7
              With a few big trips coming up and north of 200k on the clock, I had both CV's replaced and the bearing assy. No oil leak or noise from the original ones so I can now carry a cv & bearing as spares.

              From this forum and others, the consensus was to go with new original CV's whenever a lift is involved. These cope with the increased angles and for me it seems to hold water as I've been running 50 mm lift for most of the mileage on the truck without a problem over tough tracks. Diff drop kit may help further. The cheapie CV option may suit city only driven truck.
              Tony
              2013 LC200 Sahara & 2003 GXL 4.0 v6

              Comment


              • #8
                Have a look at the comments on this thread. http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...king-cv-shafts

                $900.00 is a lot of loot for the genuine part. We mainly fit Repco shafts at work. They do the job well for most applications but I am not sure if those shafts would be 1st preference. When I say not sure, I mean exactly that. They could be fantastic for the application, but I just don't know.
                I would be giving the guys at Don Kyatt a call and asking for a bit of advice. http://spareparts.donkyatt.com.au
                Given that you have a 50mm lift, I would also be fitting a diff drop kit too. For 50 or 60 bucks, Andrews diff drop kits ( http://www.pradopoint.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=14108 ) can't be beaten. The kit levels out those shafts nicely and fitting the kit will go a long way to solving your issue.
                2008 Diesel Prado with extra stuff added. I drive it on the road and other places too.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I just re-read your original post Matt. Maybe remove the shaft and pull it all apart. Clean everything up well and inspect. It is a very messy job. On inspection, examine the joints and balls for wear. If they are ok, I would be reasembling with good quality grease and aftermarket boots. The boots are only about 6 or seven dollars each. This will make it a much cheaper job for you. It is not what a shop will do, as when labour is factored in, it is usually much cheaper and easier to just replace the complete shaft. This doesn't seem the case for you though, as I gather you are intending to do the job yourself.

                  Just a thought????
                  2008 Diesel Prado with extra stuff added. I drive it on the road and other places too.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yes matt01 the seal I would replace is the diff side. There is one wheel side but it's to keep wheel bearing clean so no oil. You can replace cv with out seal but for $20 for a seal and 5min extra work saves alot of headaches later.
                    96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      thanks everyone, you have given me a lot of good info.

                      I think I will see how much the repco shafts are and fix the old drive shaft later and keep it as a spare. I don't think I can justify $900 for a genuine one.
                      Prado 120 GXL v6 Petrol 2003, Lovell 50mm raised springs -HD Front -Medium Rear, Bilstein Shocks, 600w inverter, Rhino roof rack and tray.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Go to CBC and check out the GSP shafts. They are reputedly suppliers to the manufacturers and seem to be the best of the cheap bunch. About $240 each IIRC. No complaints about them so far with 40mm lift.

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                        • #13
                          I bought two of these ,, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAND-NEW...item564ae05ea5
                          two years ago still going good. These are Repco drive-shafts with a three year warranty. They are both the same so you only need one spare

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by raydes View Post
                            I bought two of these ,, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAND-NEW...item564ae05ea5
                            two years ago still going good. These are Repco drive-shafts with a three year warranty. They are both the same so you only need one spare
                            Hi Raydes
                            I purchased a similar item from another ebay seller, hopefully it will be ok. you have at least given me some hope.
                            Prado 120 GXL v6 Petrol 2003, Lovell 50mm raised springs -HD Front -Medium Rear, Bilstein Shocks, 600w inverter, Rhino roof rack and tray.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Just reviving this thread for a question I can't seem to find an answer to.

                              How to I check my front CV joints?

                              Can I do this without removing them.

                              Mine are tight if I park and they are under some load - eg with Auto in Park.

                              But if I apply handbrake and put the auto into Neutral there is no movement in the direction of rotation, either way, no matter how hard I twist, a tiny amount of longitudinal movement, maybe 0.5 mm anda small amount of lateral movement if I a grab the shaft and push sideways - maybe 1 mm.

                              I suspect this is all normal but would appreciate any help to confirm or otherwise.

                              thanks

                              Willis

                              Comment

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