Possible Drive Train Noise/Vibration.

[Wombat1 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wombat1]

Hi,

Just looking for a possible solution.

I Have a Prado 120 2003 5 spd manual V6, with a 2inch TJM Lift with under 200,000.00 Klms (Medium Front and Rear Springs) which has started to make a humming noise in 4th gear at about 60 k's per hour and then also in 5th at about 90 k's per hour.

I have changed all of the transmission oils within spec + added some Nulon G 70 (Old oil had no sign of shavings etc.), also the inner and outer front cv boots have been replaced and re-greased and the noise is still there. (Seems to be coming from the front with slight vibration through the floor)

Has Anyone had the same issue and can give me an idea of the what the problem may be?

Is it worth taking it to Pedders for a 28 point inspection or do you know someone in Brissy that could take a look?

Also a mate said instead of running 80-90 in the front diff upgrade the both diffs to LSD 140 is that possible?

Sorry to be a pain, but just looking for a possible solution.

Cheers

Wombat1

[ratsack Member Find all posts View Profile Close ratsack]

Driveline Vibrations

I just had something similar in our 95 series Prado. Definitely worth looking into. I replaced both front uni's with barely any difference. Then, I replaced the rear uni and greased all the nipples and the problem is 95% gone. Cheap and simple to do as well.

[Wombat1 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wombat1]

Thanx

Thanks Ratsak

I will give that a burl.

Can anyone else give suggestions to what else could cause this problem?

[Wombat1 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wombat1]

More Info - Please help

Hi People,

Have changed the Uni's with no resolve, does anyone else have any suggestions? Surely this is not an isolated instance.

Could it possibly be CV Related, as has TJM Lift Kit installed?

Cheers

Wombat1

[ratsack Member Find all posts View Profile Close ratsack]

Did you change all the uni's in both prop shafts? Or just the front? For the $30 more, if you haven't already, I'd do the rear as well.

What tyres do you have? You sure it isn't just those?

[Wombat1 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wombat1]

Thanx - You have been very helpful

Hi Ratsack,

Changed Both Uni's as required.

Tyres are BF Goodrich, with build date getting on the older side.

Unsure if the tyres are the cause, as it has had a balance and wheel alignment only 6 months ago (When Suspension Installed) and no sign of the noise when it was done. And it has only come in the last 3 months. (The next question is no I have not smashed into anything).

I was hoping that others may have already experienced this and could help.

You have been great and thanx for hanging in there and trying to assist. My question is where are the others? Hiding in a cubby hole obviously.

Well done Ratsack, I wished there were more out there like you.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

Have you any idea on the rough location from where the noise is coming from? Is it the gearbox? My old Cortina hummed from the tranny tunnel and I gradually started to lose the gears as the main bearings disintegrated leaving me stuck in Iron Knob with only 1st and reverse. The noise was prominent under load but dissipated when the throttle was eased.

[Guest Close Guest]

Do you notice the vibration at the same rpm range but at different speeds?

[Wombat1 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wombat1]

Thanks for the Responses-does this help a little

Hi Lads,

Thank you for your interest it is greatly appreciated.

Well the noise is there at 55-60 klm's per hour in forth gear and again at 85 - 90, in fifth gear. When you coast and place it in neutral it is still there at 55-60 klm's which makes me feel it is not the gear box and also no particular rpm.

Vibration is felt at the front around the drivers and passenger floor and a little through the steering wheel.

At 1st I thought it may have been an exhaust issue, but that is quite stiff underneath.

Does this help to brake it down a little?

Thanks

Wombat

[cfryback Find all posts View Profile Close cfryback]

Back in the day, I owned a "beater" Volvo that did the same thing, but from the rear. Turned out that the tyre was delaminating from the inside.

Might be worth checking out from a tyre shop. Our Subaru Outback actually had a tyre that went out of round.

[Wombat1 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wombat1]

Tyres Checked

Hi Lads and Ladies,

I have had the tyres checked with no resolve.

This is becoming a very frustrating process.

Has anyone come across this before or if not could they recommend the next action. (Anyone know where I can take it North Brissy to have them take a sneak peak - at reasonable costs )

The noise is annoying me.

Cheers

Wombat1.

[SWR Banned Find all posts View Profile Close SWR]

Gday Wombat1

Have you checked the condition of your engine mounts?

These are not vacuum operated like on the diesels but a fluid/hydraulic type!

If the engine mount has ripped the surroundings of the engine mount it will be oily and cause the engine to drop in height and sit closer to the front cross member/Chassis.

A quick way to check would be to put it into first gear (Foot brake on) and load the clutch slowly to see if engine jumps up! then repeat the same again in revers!.. If engine mount is ripped this will reveal it quickly as it will clunk and jump quickly! (Don't rev the crap out of it (Just enough to not stall) but just load it to see if radical movement!)

Both Left & right engine mounts are the same part number (For your rig) below if diagnose a culprit engine mount!

ENGINE MOUNTING, FRONT - x 2 = 12361-31080

Also check that all suspension bushes and shockie bushes are not worn as i have seen where people have fitted new bushes with petroleum based grease instead of rubber grease (Caster oil based) as this can/will rot the bushes out in a matter of months!

(Worn shock absorber bushes tend to cause a clunk!).

I once had my gearbox removed in the past for warranty (Dodgy clutch!) and when returned i had a vibration at the front of my rig!..

Long story short they changed both engine mounts (Warranty) and the prob was still there?

I had a look under the rig and the wrong bolts was fitted to the gearbox rear cross member and when loaded-up the gearbox pushed against the bolts (Bolts was too long) and transmitted a vibrated through the rig!...

Once i put shorter bolts in the problem was solved! ... I also got new engine mounts for nothing!....... Yeah!

Another thing that stick's out is that (like mentioned in past thread) it does sound like a prop-shaft out of balance?

If (Hypothetically) a uni was worn and new uni fitted but the yoke re-fitted 180 deg out to the apposing yoke it would still give you a vibration as this would be enough to put the prop-shaft out of balance?

(Prop-shaft is usually welded yoke inline with welded yoke!)

Use string to aline both prefect on sliding spline, Mark it and rotate 180 deg! ... If vibe worse rotate it back to original position!

This you could experiment your self if you can undo the and remove the prop-shaft!

Cheers

[Pradolot Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Pradolot]

I agree with sky. Vibration = metal hitting metal. So check places rubber should be preventing this and also check something's not hitting where it shouldn't. Like bent bash plates ect. Even if it looks like it's got enough clearance. But it's taken a hit. Jam a crow bar in there and wedge it down more. Even removing bash plates might be a good start if they look shagged.
Mullins