C Tek battery charging

[Madkore Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Madkore]

Thanks drivesafe - I read back through what I wrote and you have certainly cleared it up.

The CTek manually specifically mentions using the 'cold weather program' to charge Optimas or Odyssey batteries, but also mentions that the 'normal charge program' can be used also for AGM battteries.

Having said all that, I think a battery monitor might be next on the list of mods so I can keep an eye on them whilst driving.

[drivesafe Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close drivesafe]

Hi again Madkore, as far as monitors go, save your money.

Once you start your motor, all a monitor is going to do is give you the voltage readout of you alternator.

Just reading the voltage at each battery will not tell you anything and can actually be misleading to the point of giving you info that is the reverse of what is happening.

As an example, you could have a stuffed battery and the voltage reading at the battery, with the motor running, could be very high, indicating the battery is charged.

Or you could have a battery in a very low state and the voltage reading at the battery could be low, indicating the battery is not charging when in fact, the battery is taking such a high charge current that it is causing a large voltage drop.

Then just to throw a spanner in the works, both the above situations can have the opposite readings, high for a charging battery and low for a stuffed battery so you never really get anything useful from a volt meter unless it’s paired with an amp meter and this then becomes a fitting nightmare.

The only way you can get a realistic idea of how your batteries are being charged is if you fit a full monitoring system and these start at around $450+ and then need heaps of work to install them.

[MidLifeCrisis Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close MidLifeCrisis]

Hi again Madkore, as far as monitors go, save your money.

Once you start your motor, all a monitor is going to do is give you the voltage readout of you alternator.

Just reading the voltage at each battery will not tell you anything and can actually be misleading to the point of giving you info that is the reverse of what is happening.

As an example, you could have a stuffed battery and the voltage reading at the battery, with the motor running, could be very high, indicating the battery is charged.

Or you could have a battery in a very low state and the voltage reading at the battery could be low, indicating the battery is not charging when in fact, the battery is taking such a high charge current that it is causing a large voltage drop.

Then just to throw a spanner in the works, both the above situations can have the opposite readings, high for a charging battery and low for a stuffed battery so you never really get anything useful from a volt meter unless it’s paired with an amp meter and this then becomes a fitting nightmare.

The only way you can get a realistic idea of how your batteries are being charged is if you fit a full monitoring system and these start at around $450+ and then need heaps of work to install them.

Dammit! wasted a few buck then I guess....

[winniliss Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close winniliss]

I have the Optima D27F with the redarc isolator so it charges both. I have the CTEK 25amp charger and charge my batteries in parallel as well. Just takes a little longer.

[drivesafe Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close drivesafe]

Dammit! wasted a few buck then I guess....

Hi MidLifeCrisis, and if you have a battery monitor ( a.k.a. Volt meter ) you need to understand what you’re looking at and then they can be useful.

The problem is that those flogging these meters, have no real idea themselves so it doesn’t help the end user.

Here is an example of when you can make use of them.

If you are camping and have been using your battery(s) over a few days, a quick glance at one of these meters will not give an accurate indication of the exact state of charge of your battery, but it will tell if your battery is still holding a fair bit of capacity or if you have used around half the capacity available, or if your battery is that low that it’s time to charge it.

In a situation like this, you can get some useful feedback but as posted earlier, once you start your motor, the only voltage reading you are going to get is that of your alternator.

[rocks Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close rocks]

G`day Everyone,
Here goes my first question,
I`m considering installing a 200ah fully sealed agm battery into the rear of the vehicle the purpose is for long term camps where you don`t drive an awful lot, charging regularly with a ctek 25 amp charger on a generator.
Just want to put a ply box around it with the straight connection for the engel and the charger installed close by as well.
Is this safe enough or do have to isolate it completely?
Which is a good battery brand?
Have seen some for about 4-500 bucks on e-bay.
Cheers

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

A minor point, that's about 60kg so make sure its well secured so it can't come flying up forward and do a lot of damage.

[drivesafe Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close drivesafe]

Hi Rocks and contrary to what most people believe, there is no such thing as a “sealed” battery.

AGMs are splash proof and can be mounted on any plain ( except upside down ) but ALL batteries have vents.

Under normal use, they will not leak but if they are overcharged or drop a cell and short internally, they WILL spew electrolyte.

For this reason all batteries, not just flooded wet cell type batteries, should be mounted in plastic battery boxes and as krypto has pointed out, these boxes must be secured in a way that will keep them in place incase of rough driving or an accident.

BTW, you can use any type of a battery, not just AGMs.

[rocks Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close rocks]

Thanks folks, That helps a fair bit wasn`t sure about the batt-box.

Think I`ll keep it down low but definately behind cargo barrier and fixed to it. designing this for a once of trip and want it fully removable toward another purpose I have planned later in the year.
At least this way won`t have to use gene daily to charge up the 110 under bonnet.