Ideally keep the isolator as close to the battery as possible because that is what Redarc recommend. I guess this is because you can get significant voltage drop in the cable if it is too small and as the Redarc isolator senses input voltage to switch on or off Redarc are just making sure the isolator will work as planned. However one way or another you will be running heavy duty cable to the battery so it shouldn't matter. There are a few voltage loss calculators on the web so you can see what will happen at the blunt end of your 8B&S when pulling 50A. I ran 6 B&S from the main to the DC DC charger and will run that or larger to power out the back when the time comes.
What ever way you do it make sure you have a circuit breaker or fuse in line near the battery that can handle the current flow and give you some protection. I go for a manual circuit breaker than doubles as an isolation switch. Right next door to the main battery and between the battery and Redarc isolator / DC DC charger.
http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uplo...ion_Manual.pdf
Not sure letterboxman what you mean. If you are suggesting running all the standard OEM ancilliaries off the auxiliary battery I don't see the point. There was another thread on here not so long ago about doing that and none of us usual PPers could work out why you would bother. Typically the auxiliary battery is for running new bits and pieces and having these isolated from the main battery so that if the auxiliary does go flat you can still start the car and drive away. So these things are usually fridge, CB radio, power sockets and or extra lights. Things you want power available for when the engine is off.
Redarc and the other similar isolators usually have provision for starting off two batteries or winching off two batteries. To be honest if that is what you want to do then go for the biggest capacity isolator you can find because the current draw momentarily can be huge and burn out wiring quite quickly. That lets the smoke out of the electrics and we all know that is a bad bad thing.
What ever way you do it make sure you have a circuit breaker or fuse in line near the battery that can handle the current flow and give you some protection. I go for a manual circuit breaker than doubles as an isolation switch. Right next door to the main battery and between the battery and Redarc isolator / DC DC charger.
http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uplo...ion_Manual.pdf
Not sure letterboxman what you mean. If you are suggesting running all the standard OEM ancilliaries off the auxiliary battery I don't see the point. There was another thread on here not so long ago about doing that and none of us usual PPers could work out why you would bother. Typically the auxiliary battery is for running new bits and pieces and having these isolated from the main battery so that if the auxiliary does go flat you can still start the car and drive away. So these things are usually fridge, CB radio, power sockets and or extra lights. Things you want power available for when the engine is off.
Redarc and the other similar isolators usually have provision for starting off two batteries or winching off two batteries. To be honest if that is what you want to do then go for the biggest capacity isolator you can find because the current draw momentarily can be huge and burn out wiring quite quickly. That lets the smoke out of the electrics and we all know that is a bad bad thing.
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