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OK, looking at the specs it is dual screw post. I assume it doesn't have a standard post?
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[url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url] -
The dual posts are standard size, just twice as many of them. Makes fitting accessories easy.2009 White KDJ120R Manual fitted out for family camping and touring - See my Rig Build at [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27887-Smithy-s-Rig-Build[/url]Comment
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Could you fit a standard battery clamp on them?[url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]Comment
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Yes. I forgot to clarify that the screw posts come out of the lead posts. A standard clamp will fit over the lead posts. I can get a photo for you if you want...2009 White KDJ120R Manual fitted out for family camping and touring - See my Rig Build at [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27887-Smithy-s-Rig-Build[/url]Comment
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Thanks, now to decide if the price difference between an Exide 80Ah $160 vs. Trojan 100Ah $289 is worth it...[url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]Comment
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I had the same thoughts. The guys i got my battery from assured me the trojan would last a good 10 years if not a lot longer. Only had my battery in for eight months so can't comment beyond that.2009 White KDJ120R Manual fitted out for family camping and touring - See my Rig Build at [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27887-Smithy-s-Rig-Build[/url]Comment
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Did you get that in writing? Isn't battery life dependent on how you use/abuse it?Originally posted by Smithy - 120 D4D View PostComment
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It will last 10 years - if you DONT use it!Terry
Canberra
2008 Prado 120 D4D and 2010 Jayco Swan OutbackComment
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Spoke with arb today reguarding battery tray they said the arb tray will only house a 10 inch battery, they said they can supply a tray to go behind the drivers side light like many on here have however they said they have seen a few with the guards cracked there. They said they havent seen any crack with there tray as yet so i think i will go with the arb tray even though it will only house a 10 inch battery.Comment
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The guards dont crack because of the battery...
They crack because of the extra wright in steel bars, winchs etc combined with extra HD coils and high PSI in the tyres...
If you run your car like this over shit loads of bad corrigations then your an idiot anyway.
There are thousands of prados with battery behind the drivers headlight that have NOT got cracked inner guards.HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.Comment
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How does a bull bar crack the inner guards when the bull bar is mounted to the chassis and the body and where the body mounts to theOriginally posted by mackayvx View Post
chassis it has rubber blocks to allow some movement. If the chassis moves that much to crack the guards would it not crack the chassis as well.
Has for putting a battery behind the headlight its that where Toyota put the 2nd battery Europe for starting ? Also i think that most battery trays have a weight limit.2000 95 Rv TJM Bull Bar,TJM Snorkel,TJM 2'' lift,TJM Prolocker,Dual Battery,Icom UHF,TJM Awining,16x7 Black rims,Power Shower Unit,
XRAY VISON 90W HID Spot Lights,Rhino Roof bars and more.Comment
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I don't think anyone knows for sure what combination of bits and driving causes the cracks. There must be 500 pages on the fj forums with no conclusion either. How much weight, where it sits and how it is supported must play a part. Toyota France sell reinforcing kits for 120s too.
I had a 13" AGM battery up front for 5 years on a 120 in a custom tray with no problems but I think going for a more standard battery makes more sense. I reckon stick with a 12" wet battery in a quality tray.
Remember in your situation there is no substitute for AH capacity. Solar to help keep it topped up with as big a panel as you can fit / afford too.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automaticComment
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That's right mj... What you said is very accurate... No one knows really...Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
But one thing is for sure, a battery of a reasonable size behind the drivers headlight should be no problems.
Just make sure its fitted correctly and check all the bolts as part of routine servicing.
A loose battery tray & battery is always bad news.HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.Comment
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mvx I was more making a comment that you cannot dismiss anything as being a contributing factor including the design being weak. The fjs seem to have as many crack without mods as those that have any combination of mods. Toyota has revised the inner guard design on the fjs 3 times if you can believe what is posted on the forums. There was also comment about trays being too flimsy and then also too rigid. Who knows. Not sure about changes between the 120 and 150. The body support rubbers have also changed and so have the bump stops again according to the forums. I do like the idea of those larger more progressive bump stops that Derek and others are running so I will get my hands on some.
I totally agree that if you keep the battery and tray similar to what is there from Toyota it shouldn't be an issue. And drive to the conditions with regards to corrugations and tyre pressures and so on.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automaticComment
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Another thing to consider if you are using older engels is to get a low voltage cutout installed with your duel battery system.
This cost me one battery at the start before i got the waeco as the engel would keep running the battery dead flat all of the time"Drive down that track really fast, if something gets in your way turn"Comment
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