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I know that pictures would be good, but I fabricated and fitted the things without taking any - sorry. I will try to describe the process and am happy to give further explanations if their is any interest.
For those with an interest and inclination to do so, HID projector lights can be made and fitted to the fog light recesses of an ARB deluxe bulbar.
You will need:
- a set of Morimoto Mini H1 projectors (http://www.vikom.com.au/product/bi-x...mini-h1-6-0-4/),
- a HID kit with H1 bulbs,
- a handful of plumbing bits
- a bit of lexan.
The plumbing bits are all available from Bunnings. You need
- two 90mm slip-on joiners,
- a bit of 90mm stormwater pipe,
- 4 screw on caps,
- 2 glue on caps,
- 2 threaded ends that fit OVER the 90mm pipe (i.e. the same diameter as the slip-on joiners) and
- 2 threaded ends that are the same diameter as the 90mm pipe (i.e. that fit INTO the screw on joiners).
- 2 galvanised flanges for 100mm guttering.
Take the 2 threaded ends that are the same diameter as the 90mm pipe and screw end caps onto them. Drill a hole and run a flush cut router bit around the inside so that you are left with end caps that have a big hole in the middle.
Grab a 95mm holesaw and cut a hole through a bit of wood. Remove the pilot from the holesaw, and clamp some lexan or perspex (I used 10mm thick)to the bit of wood. Use the hole you cut previously to guide the holesaw. Make two discs of lexan then put them aside for now.
(With plumber's glue) glue a threaded section into a slip-on joiner. Repeat for the other one.
Fit the "mini Gatling gun" shrouds that come as part of the projector kit to the projector mechanisms using the provided screws. Then push the assembled projector into the slip-on joiner until the shroud is hard up against the rear of the threaded section that you glued in place. The shrouds are a perfect, tight fit into the slip-on joiner.
Drill a 22mm hole through the middle of each glue-on end cap. Place the large silicon washer over the end of the projector mechanism, then the modified glue-on cap, then the aluminium nut. Work out how much 90mm pipe you need to go from inside the slip-on joiner to the glue on cap and glue it to each cap. DO NOT GLUE it to the slip-on joiners yet.
Remove the projector mechanisms and clean out all of the plastic bits from inside the housings you have made. Paint the housings and the two modified threaded caps black. (Before painting I sanded the little lugs off the rim of the threaded caps so that the caps are circular.)
When the paint is dry insert the projector mechanisms into the housings, and fit the lexan lenses with some silicon and the threaded caps.
Fit (and glue) the glue-on cap assemblies so that the threaded section at the rear of the projector mechanism hangs out the rear of each housing. Fit the large nut and the bulb holder to the rear of each projector mechanism. Fit but do not wire up the bulbs.
Pass the almost-complete projector through from the front of the fog-light bezel in the ARB bar. Fit a galvanised flange over the housing - I screwed through the flange into the back of the fog-light bezel, spacing the flange out at one screw to better angle the lights towards the sides of the car. Leave the projector housings free-floating inside the flanges at the moment.
Wire up the lights. I ran separate relays so that the HID bulbs can be activated with either the OEM fog light switch, or by a separate, switched high-beam feed. That way I can use the lights as fogs or driving lights. Wait for dark.
Fire up the lights against a wall and then line up the low beam cut-offs so that the lights are level. Run three VERY short screws through the galvanised flange and into each projector housing to hold it all in place. Add sikaflex if you want. Wire up the cut-off shield solenoids so that they are activated when the high beams are on.
Take the two remaining threaded sections and two screw-on end caps. Cut a little slot in the wall of the threaded section so that the wires can exit the housings. Sikaflex rather the plumber's glue the covers over the back of the housings. You will undo the threaded caps if you ever need to change bulbs, so do not glue the caps into place too solidly. Refit the plates to the underside of the bullbar.
Enjoy your new lights. They have a fantastically sharp "low beam cut off" which makes them work very well for me as fog lights. When high beam is on and the solenoids pull the cut-off shields down, the projectors are very useful driving lights.
YMMV, Tony
For those with an interest and inclination to do so, HID projector lights can be made and fitted to the fog light recesses of an ARB deluxe bulbar.
You will need:
- a set of Morimoto Mini H1 projectors (http://www.vikom.com.au/product/bi-x...mini-h1-6-0-4/),
- a HID kit with H1 bulbs,
- a handful of plumbing bits
- a bit of lexan.
The plumbing bits are all available from Bunnings. You need
- two 90mm slip-on joiners,
- a bit of 90mm stormwater pipe,
- 4 screw on caps,
- 2 glue on caps,
- 2 threaded ends that fit OVER the 90mm pipe (i.e. the same diameter as the slip-on joiners) and
- 2 threaded ends that are the same diameter as the 90mm pipe (i.e. that fit INTO the screw on joiners).
- 2 galvanised flanges for 100mm guttering.
Take the 2 threaded ends that are the same diameter as the 90mm pipe and screw end caps onto them. Drill a hole and run a flush cut router bit around the inside so that you are left with end caps that have a big hole in the middle.
Grab a 95mm holesaw and cut a hole through a bit of wood. Remove the pilot from the holesaw, and clamp some lexan or perspex (I used 10mm thick)to the bit of wood. Use the hole you cut previously to guide the holesaw. Make two discs of lexan then put them aside for now.
(With plumber's glue) glue a threaded section into a slip-on joiner. Repeat for the other one.
Fit the "mini Gatling gun" shrouds that come as part of the projector kit to the projector mechanisms using the provided screws. Then push the assembled projector into the slip-on joiner until the shroud is hard up against the rear of the threaded section that you glued in place. The shrouds are a perfect, tight fit into the slip-on joiner.
Drill a 22mm hole through the middle of each glue-on end cap. Place the large silicon washer over the end of the projector mechanism, then the modified glue-on cap, then the aluminium nut. Work out how much 90mm pipe you need to go from inside the slip-on joiner to the glue on cap and glue it to each cap. DO NOT GLUE it to the slip-on joiners yet.
Remove the projector mechanisms and clean out all of the plastic bits from inside the housings you have made. Paint the housings and the two modified threaded caps black. (Before painting I sanded the little lugs off the rim of the threaded caps so that the caps are circular.)
When the paint is dry insert the projector mechanisms into the housings, and fit the lexan lenses with some silicon and the threaded caps.
Fit (and glue) the glue-on cap assemblies so that the threaded section at the rear of the projector mechanism hangs out the rear of each housing. Fit the large nut and the bulb holder to the rear of each projector mechanism. Fit but do not wire up the bulbs.
Pass the almost-complete projector through from the front of the fog-light bezel in the ARB bar. Fit a galvanised flange over the housing - I screwed through the flange into the back of the fog-light bezel, spacing the flange out at one screw to better angle the lights towards the sides of the car. Leave the projector housings free-floating inside the flanges at the moment.
Wire up the lights. I ran separate relays so that the HID bulbs can be activated with either the OEM fog light switch, or by a separate, switched high-beam feed. That way I can use the lights as fogs or driving lights. Wait for dark.
Fire up the lights against a wall and then line up the low beam cut-offs so that the lights are level. Run three VERY short screws through the galvanised flange and into each projector housing to hold it all in place. Add sikaflex if you want. Wire up the cut-off shield solenoids so that they are activated when the high beams are on.
Take the two remaining threaded sections and two screw-on end caps. Cut a little slot in the wall of the threaded section so that the wires can exit the housings. Sikaflex rather the plumber's glue the covers over the back of the housings. You will undo the threaded caps if you ever need to change bulbs, so do not glue the caps into place too solidly. Refit the plates to the underside of the bullbar.
Enjoy your new lights. They have a fantastically sharp "low beam cut off" which makes them work very well for me as fog lights. When high beam is on and the solenoids pull the cut-off shields down, the projectors are very useful driving lights.
YMMV, Tony